Belt Tensioner noise...

[ABQSpyder]

New Family photos?

 

[Bob Denman]

 

[hillbillywhisperer]

So, I had the same thought and have already done the 2 bearing upgrade.
Sorry, no pictures, but this is what we did:
We used 626 bearings - 6x19x6mm
We turned the roller end for end on how it's mounted on the BRP arm. (the stock bearing is recessed from the side away from the arm)
We machined that recessed hole to accept the 19mm bearing.
We then machined the other side of the roller (now the outside), just deep enough to accept the other bearing.
We machined a aluminum spacer to fit between the inner race of the 2 bearings.
We milled off about 1/8" of the arm where the bolt goes through to keep the roller the same distance from the arm.
We used a little longer bolt to bolt it all together. It doesn't matter if the bolt and nut stick out on the outside of the roller(it won't hit anything)

I hope that's clear as mud. Anyway, the new 2 bearing set-up works great! The roller is as solid as a rock.

Here's what I did.

I purchased Doc's upgrade.:2thumbs:

 

[Wildrice]

Tension roller bolt over tightened

I took off the BRP tensioner on my wife's F3. I don't know why people are saying that it is a bushing. It is a 6mm x 17mm x 6mm bearing in there. Probably a cheap Chinese bearing and the reason why they are failing. I am just going to replace it with a SKF bearing of better quality. It is a 2 minute job to change the bearing once you have the roller off. You don't even need to take the tensioner off. Cost for the high quality SKF 6x17x6 bearing is only $10. You could fit two side by side if you get a longer 6mm bolt. I may try that as well. There is nothing wrong with the rest of the tensioner.

Yes Doc, you can put me on your ignore list like you did Road-kill. Anyone who puts someone on their ignore list for such a silly reason is not someone I would do business with anyways. I am sure you lost other business with that comment as well.

You are correct--there is a bearing in the inner portion or the BRP roller. Closest to the tension arm the roller mounting screw has an approx 1/2" arbor that rides inside the roller housing. If the roller screw/bolt is assembled too tight the arbor will press against the bearing race. The roller needs to freewheel. Assembling the roller mounting bolt too tight will cause the arbor to make contact with the bearing race & cause a premature failure.
Darrell

 

[Samson]

I replaced my BRP idler with Docs about 1 month ago. Went for the first ride of approx. 200 miles yesterday and it was most certainly a smoother experience. Vibes about 98% gone. Speeds up to 85 mph. The remaining can most likely be the OEM tires, balancing of the wheels etc.. Just wish BRP would have thought of this while designing the bike, as a consumer, I would gladly have paid the $ for the extra part.

 

[Wildrice]

If you are using a larger bearing, just make sure that the 'limiting speed' is the same, or close as the original, or you may have issues. Larger bearings can have a much lower speed than a smaller one.

Would the speed of the roller bearing matter ? What if the roller was larger--same--same. I thought the tension roller was to apply tension on the belt & the roller or bearing speed won't make a difference????
Darrell

 

[Wildrice]

My--how sensitive the fly's become when they get close to the fire :dg2:

 

[bscrive]

Would the speed of the roller bearing matter ? What if the roller was larger--same--same. I thought the tension roller was to apply tension on the belt & the roller or bearing speed won't make a difference????
Darrell

What was explained to me by the company where I got the bearings from is that bearings have what is called the 'limiting speed'. This is the maximum speed that a bearing can spin before the bearing cannot get proper lubrication, so it will fail. The bearing on the BRP tensioner (6x17x6) has a limiting speed of @ 43,000 rpm. The limiting speed of a 6x19x6 bearing varies quite a bit. This depends on the quality of the bearing. Some 6x19x6 bearings can have a limiting speed of 50,000 rpm and others can be 24,000 rpm. While 24,000 rpm sounds supper fast it may be exceeded driving on the Interstate at 85mph. Not only that, but a bearing with a higher limiting speed will last much longer at higher speeds even if the rpm is @ 25,000.
Basically, if you are going to put in a new bearing get the best one available. Not all bearings are equal.
Also, roller bearings have a much lower limiting speed then ball bearings. You need to get them with ball bearings.

 

[Wildrice]

What was explained to me by the company where I got the bearings from is that bearings have what is called the 'limiting speed'. This is the maximum speed that a bearing can spin before the bearing cannot get proper lubrication, so it will fail. The bearing on the BRP tensioner (6x17x6) has a limiting speed of @ 43,000 rpm. The limiting speed of a 6x19x6 bearing varies quite a bit. This depends on the quality of the bearing. Some 6x19x6 bearings can have a limiting speed of 50,000 rpm and others can be 24,000 rpm. While 24,000 rpm sounds supper fast it may be exceeded driving on the Interstate at 85mph. Not only that, but a bearing with a higher limiting speed will last much longer at higher speeds even if the rpm is @ 25,000.
Basically, if you are going to put in a new bearing get the best one available. Not all bearings are equal.
Also, roller bearings have a much lower limiting speed then ball bearings. You need to get them with ball bearings.

Good point--the roller/bearing I have from Baker Built Products are twice the size if the BRP roller--thus the roller/bearing assy from Baker would spin at 50% less RPM...

 

[Firefly]

Here's what I did.

I purchased Doc's upgrade.:2thumbs:

Exactly.
Much easier than tracking down bearings and modifying the crappy BRP one.
I look forward to putting Doc's unit back on after I get the noise situation under control.... which is probably a bearing... hoping for the rear and not the front!

Unlike the BRP unit, the Doc upgrade seems very solid and I believe will last for a long time. :thumbup:

 

[Roadster Renovations]

I know that our bearings are ABEC rated, and slightly larger than the BRP one and there are two. They are ball bearings, not roller and they are made in Japan, not China. We use a unique inner sleeve design that is slightly crushed (like the crush washer that is used to set the bearing tension in a differential yoke). In the 7 months we have produced and sold them we have yet to have a bearing fail. Various mileages (my F3S is at just about 9k) from everyone. I am very encouraged that we are having as good luck as we are with them.
Several months back someone told me that I was securing the bearings incorrectly; that I should have a spacer placed between the races instead of what we were doing. I disagreed then and told them that time and miles would tell.
Not saying that these bearings won't eventually fail, but they should last many, many miles.....
(And for those of you getting ready to ask the specs on them, not going to happen) Have to keep some of my stuff confidential..nojokenojokenojoke

 

[jcthorne]

I know that our bearings are ABEC rated, and slightly larger than the BRP one and there are two. They are ball bearings, not roller and they are made in Japan, not China. We use a unique inner sleeve design that is slightly crushed (like the crush washer that is used to set the bearing tension in a differential yoke). In the 7 months we have produced and sold them we have yet to have a bearing fail. Various mileages (my F3S is at just about 9k) from everyone. I am very encouraged that we are having as good luck as we are with them.
Several months back someone told me that I was securing the bearings incorrectly; that I should have a spacer placed between the races instead of what we were doing. I disagreed then and told them that time and miles would tell.
Not saying that these bearings won't eventually fail, but they should last many, many miles.....
(And for those of you getting ready to ask the specs on them, not going to happen) Have to keep some of my stuff confidential..nojokenojokenojoke

Ok then, how about letting us know the top speed of the bike you designed for when choosing the bearings?

 

[Wildrice]

Ok then, how about letting us know the top speed of the bike you designed for when choosing the bearings?

I would imagine the duration of the top speed would make a significant difference. Most areas have traffic congestion preventing anything other than short burst of high speed runs.

 

[Roadster Renovations]

Ok then, how about letting us know the top speed of the bike you designed for when choosing the bearings?

Ok, let's see.....the speedo goes up to 200 mph so...........:dontknow::dontknow::dontknow::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:

 

[Buckskin]

Firefly, I listened to that video, and that is a nasty noise. I would lift the rear wheel off the ground (chock the fronts) and run the bike with the wheel off the ground. Take a long screwdriver or something and put it on the axle bolt and your ear. Place it around the rear and then move up towards the front to see just where the noise is coming from. Yeah I know it's not exact science, but try to isolate it as close as you can. Try putting it on the brake caliper. Anywhere you might think of while under the bike. That whump/whump is not constant and it's in and out sound.
Buckskin

Exactly.
Much easier than tracking down bearings and modifying the crappy BRP one.
I look forward to putting Doc's unit back on after I get the noise situation under control.... which is probably a bearing... hoping for the rear and not the front!

Unlike the BRP unit, the Doc upgrade seems very solid and I believe will last for a long time. :thumbup:

 

[Roadster Renovations]

Firefly, I listened to that video, and that is a nasty noise. I would lift the rear wheel off the ground (chock the fronts) and run the bike with the wheel off the ground. Take a long screwdriver or something and put it on the axle bolt and your ear. Place it around the rear and then move up towards the front to see just where the noise is coming from. Yeah I know it's not exact science, but try to isolate it as close as you can. Try putting it on the brake caliper. Anywhere you might think of while under the bike. That whump/whump is not constant and it's in and out sound.
Buckskin

Any auto parts store has a automotive stethoscope for about $10. Good thing to have from chasing down noises.