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Belt Tension and Vibration

Ride Master

New member
Belt Tension and vibration 2012 RT Limited

Put on the tensioner
Dealer set drive belt at low end of specs 450Newtons and tensioner at 10 pounds. Vibration went from 5200 rpms to 5500 rpms

Dealer the set drive belt at upper end of specs 615 Newtons and tensioner at 12 pounds. Vibration went from 5500 rpms tp 6000 rpms

Dealer says they won't increase the tension further on the drive belt. Smooth Spyder Jim said to take the tensioner up to 14 lbs.

I'll have the dealer do this next.
Very frustrating

Bob
 
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Belt vibration seems to be popping up more and more these days... :gaah: You added the tensioner and ended up with vibration?? I had a bit of vibes on my bike, but had the dealer set the belt tension and alignment and it all disappeared. (no tensioner)
Perhaps the belt alignment needs to be checked?? :dontknow:
 
Belt vibration seems to be popping up more and more these days... :gaah: You added the tensioner and ended up with vibration?? I had a bit of vibes on my bike, but had the dealer set the belt tension and alignment and it all disappeared. (no tensioner)
Perhaps the belt alignment needs to be checked?? :dontknow:

Bob, his vibrations are happening at RPM's your Spyder seldom sees. :roflblack::joke:
 
Belt Tension and vibration 2012 RT Limited

Put on the tensioner
Dealer set drive belt at low end of specs 450Newtons and tensioner at 10 pounds. Vibration went from 5200 rpms to 5500 rpms

Dealer the set drive belt at upper end of specs 615 Newtons and tensioner at 12 pounds. Vibration went from 5500 rpms tp 6000 rpms

Dealer says they won't increase the tension further on the drive belt. Smooth Spyder Jim said to take the tensioner up to 14 lbs.

I'll have the dealer do this next.
Very frustrating

Bob

You should try to make the adjustment yourself. With the -recommended- tension range being between 10 and 12 lbs and 14 lbs on the high end. It may require several attempts before you find the sweet spot. Unless your tech has a lot of time - or you're willing to pay the dollars - for that time.

It's not difficult to make the adjustment. Give it a try.
 
Set the tensioner at 10 pounds as recommended in Jim's instructions and I don't have a problem...much smoother now...another variable involved?
 
Set the tensioner at 10 pounds as recommended in Jim's instructions and I don't have a problem...much smoother now...another variable involved?

I question why the tech moved the belt tension and the tensioner tension at the same time. At least that's the way it's being reported. May have been better off leaving the tension low and adjusting the tensioner to accommodate it. As long as everything is tracking OK there shouldn't be another variable. ?
 
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I question why the tech moved the belt tension and the tensioner tension at the same time. At least that's the way it's being reported. May have been better off leaving the tension low and adjusting the tensioner to accommodate it. As long as everything is tracking OK there shouldn't be another variable. ?


Jim from SmoothSpyder thinks the drive belt tension should be 700-800 , which is above what BRP currently allows and just a fraction of what it used to be. However, Jim does not recommend doing so because of warrantee issues
 
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Jim from SmoothSpyder thinks the drive belt tension should be 700-800 above what BRP currently allows and just a fraction of what it used to be.

But, BRP makes the rules and we need to do our best to work within them - for warranty purposes if nothing else. I'm sure Jim would agree.
 
I think the dealers should go by the book and latest service bulletins for their own protection, warranty and otherwise, they are selling BRP's product and the mechanics have been trained and expected to adhere to BRP's service spec's. I didn't say 700 or 800 newtons above the spec's, I said they might have to bump it up to 700-800 total. The dealers are between a rock and a hard spot, they can only do what the book says.If the customer isn't satisfied, they will have to look to BRP for answers, but I don't think they have much in the way of belt vibration answers, except those are "normal and inherent characteristics". The belts will stretch some from new as they heat up and cool down and take a set, but it seems the belts are set up very tight from the factory so you don't feel this "normal and inherent characteristic" until the belt is broken in and readjusted, or they probably wouldn't sell too many, especially to a gold wing rider. Maybe the belts are like many other features of the spyder, as in no two react the same to the same setting, as in one spyder gets 28 mpg and one gets 34, one gets oil in the box and the next doesn't. If 10 lbs. of tension is working well for most and their belt is set to 'spec' by the dealer then the rest should work also at that tension it would seem. Then there are plenty within the spec range with no tensioner or vibration at all, go figure. When I asked the tensioner parts manufacturer why some pulleys will have a whistle or whine and many don't, he said most likely the cooling ribs going across the pulley combined with a lower or different belt tension, but there are many variables in the belt manufacturing process for the belts to vary slightly also. If 10-12 lbs. isn't eliminating all the vibe's, or whatever is livable for the rider, it is unlikely that 14 lbs. will make a difference, it is easy enough to try and see, and great if it stops it, but the static tension may need to be raised a hair rather than more on the tensioner. I'm no technician by any means, and I think BRP has done a great job with most of the safety features to save us from ourselves, but I have to wonder about some of BRP's techs, like whoever designed the "highway limp mode", but I think they jumped the gun when they went to 450 Newtons, the previous 750 was a more reasonable setting on a belt that long and still a safe setting, again, these are just my thoughts and observations, I'm not suggesting anyone deviate from the spec's, and for those wanting to stay completely in spec, the tensioner will factor in about 20 lbs. to the overall static tension, so keep that in mind if shooting for 600 newtons. The vibration damper on the front sprocket was a nice addition to absorb some of the vibration to the sprocket and shaft, not sure how many spyders with loose front sprockets and shaft damage were from over tight belts or belt vibration itself, but that front sprocket must be taking a beating from the vibration as that is it's first contact point before it resonates through the rest of the bike. Also check the tensioner bolts for tightness occasionally whenever you have the panels off, it is absorbing the vibration and is the spyders first line of defense. In the end it all boils down to how much vibration is acceptable to you and how comfortable you feel going over the manufacturers recommended spec's a little if you have to, to achieve your vibration comfort level. I feel comfortable, but change my rear bearings at every tire change, needlessly I think, but I feel better. I think there are many spyders out there still running 800+ newtons or there would be many more complaints than there are, again, I'm no expert, these are just my thoughts.
 
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Just a thought, may not be the belt at all... there's a bulletin out there about the front motor mount hitting the frame and couseing vibrations. dealers are to shim them up some.
 
"The vibration damper on the front sprocket was a nice addition to absorb some of the vibration to the sprocket and shaft, not sure how many spyders with loose front sprockets and shaft damage were from over tight belts or belt vibration itself, but that front sprocket must be taking a beating from the vibration as that is it's first contact point before it resonates through the rest of the bike.

Also check the tensioner bolts for tightness occasionally whenever you have the panels off, it is absorbing the vibration and is the spyders first line of defense."


Thanks for this information Jim. Being one who had vibration issues it's nice to know that I not only eliminated most of it through the use of your tensioner but, it also became the first line of defense in the overall health of a very important part of my Spyder.
 
Belt Tension and vibration 2012 RT Limited

Vibration went from 5200 rpms to 5500 rpms. Bob


Don't know what gear you are in at the 5200 -- 5500 RPM range... but if it is in 5th... then you might try to adjust your shift-ranges.

If you are not... then the following would not apply.

Just hold in 4th gear if you are cruising steady at speeds of 63 -- 65. Cruising at 63 - 65 MPH in 4th gear will put you right in that RPM range. You can cruise all-day at that speed in 4th gear without any problems. In fact, it would be likely you will have fewer problems. If yo do this, the vibrations you are experiencing may not occur. They do not for me when doing so.

Shift to 5th only if you are going to get above and hold speeds higher than 65 on level terrain.

Having said that, obviously when going to a higher speed when in 5th gear, you'll cross-through that RPM range, which might still cause vibration while you are in that range... but as you get to a higher-speed above that RPM range the vibrations should disappear. And if you are planning on moving along at higher speeds, you'll not be in that range for long.

I have found the engine and drivetrain is quieter, smoother, and has power left at the throttle by running at a higher RPM while is 4th gear (or any other, for that matter). (Are you listening Bob? :D)

Just a suggestion, without knowing all the details of your situation. If it doesn't apply, then I apologize...
 
I can say my new 2012 RT has little to no belt vibration just as it came from the dealer. I was actually surprised as I had the belt tensioner on my GS and it made quite a difference. I have yet to check the tension on my RT-- but a quick twist of the belt to a 90 felt pretty close to what I ran on my GS.

I often wonder if those experiencing such vibrations are actually running to low RPMS in the wrong gear and lugging the engine.....:dontknow:
 
I can say my new 2012 RT has little to no belt vibration just as it came from the dealer. I was actually surprised as I had the belt tensioner on my GS and it made quite a difference. I have yet to check the tension on my RT-- but a quick twist of the belt to a 90 felt pretty close to what I ran on my GS.

I often wonder if those experiencing such vibrations are actually running to low RPMS in the wrong gear and lugging the engine.....:dontknow:

I agree...
 
I don't think that's it; Fly...
I might be the worst one in here for running at lower than suggested rpm levels; my bike only showed some intermittent vibes that were really tough to pinpoint up at highway speeds. (Starting at 55 to 60 or so...)
Belt afjusted and aligned: they disappeared! :thumbup:
 
The birth date of my Spyder was Dec 2010 and it first sold in June of 2011, having only been ridden 643 miles by May of 2012 (when I took ownership). So, it's still at the OLD tension. When I rode it from Louisiana to California it had no less than four different vibration points in fifth gear. Between 65 MPH & 100 MPH. It's not far from needing its six thousand checkup and it'll be interesting to see if things change once the belt has been retensioned.
 
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