For anyone on here that does their own belt alignment. I have been all afternoon getting mine some what aligned. I have tried to follow the videos on You Tube. Is there any secrets about doing this. I get it up to the sprocket side and adjust the right side adjustment and it goes 1/8 inch or better. I just can’t seem to get it 3mm off the edge. I either get to much gap or not enough. Twice I thought I had it and take for a ride and no gap. If there is something I am doing wrong?
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Belt alignment
- Thread starter gerald37
- Start date
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
WELLLLLLL NOW THAT YOU MENTION IT
IMHO if it's not coming off the Sprocket your OK .... I watched a video a guy did showing His rear belt while driving down the road .... it moved back and forth on the sprocket .... the problem is when you turn the nut it moves the axel .... and it only has to move a tiny bit for it to show up on the sprocket .... as you tighten the nut tap on it because it creeps ,,......... others here will give you advice on what works for them .....Mike :thumbup:
IMHO if it's not coming off the Sprocket your OK .... I watched a video a guy did showing His rear belt while driving down the road .... it moved back and forth on the sprocket .... the problem is when you turn the nut it moves the axel .... and it only has to move a tiny bit for it to show up on the sprocket .... as you tighten the nut tap on it because it creeps ,,......... others here will give you advice on what works for them .....Mike :thumbup:
Thanks for the reply. that seems to be what mine is doing. I took the axle nut clear off and cleaned the washer and and area where it slides. I tried tighten the hex nut from the left side which would turn the axle. Maybe I should be tighten the nut on the right side so the axle will not turn. I know at first I was tighten on the nut side but that was before I cleaned the washer and side area up which was a little rough. I will try resetting it and tighten the nut on the right side and try to keep the axle from turning. Thanks. Jerry
All I got to say is GOOD LUCK. I have been playing with mine for about a month and cannot get the "credit card width" from the flange as recommended. It is either against the flange or 4 - 5mm away. From what I have read 1 - 5mm is within spec so I don't worry too much but have been trying to get it closer to 1 - 2mm. Trying to set it with the wheel off of the ground doesn't seem to work at all. You can get it exactly right and it is totally different as soon as you ride it. I loosen the nut and turn the adjuster maybe a 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn, wrap the axle nut to make sure the adjuster is tight against swing arm and tighten the axle nut. I wrap the axle nut as I tighten to make sure it stays snug. I check it when I go for a ride and may try again before the next ride. My experience has been is it goes from against the flange to 4-5mm away with a simple 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn with no in between.
I have been thinking about getting a bolt or rod that will fit through the axle and run a ratchet strap off of each end of the bolt to some point. Put just enough tension on it to keep the adjuster stops snug as I adjust and tighten the axle nut.
papanorm
New member
My experience was positive when following Finless Bob's recommendation of lowering the bike on the rear tyre while axle was still loose. This has the effect of pushing the wheel forward and remove it the play in the adjusters.
BTW, have you checked your front sprocket to determine if it is causing your belt adjust changes ?
BTW, have you checked your front sprocket to determine if it is causing your belt adjust changes ?
Your sounds just like mind. I have tried everything you have done and mind does the same.
How to you check this?
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
First off don't worry about the CC thickness bit. Just get the belt to stay away from the flange but not hang over the outside edge. The exact space is just too hard to achieve and is inconsequential.
Read this thread to see how I solved the problem! http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...Alignment-Problem-amp-Question&highlight=belt It's stayed between the edge and flange for 24,000 miles including through one tire replacement.
Bel Alignment
After reading to all the ideas of aligning the belt on a Can Am Spyder I got mind 4mm gap from the inside of the rear sprocket. It took me two afternoons to finely get it correct.. I will list what I did at last and it seems to work.
Loosen the axle nut then jack it up so the wheel is off the ground. Before I did this I had checked my tension and it was OK. Start the Spyder and put it in low gear just at idle. On the right side turn the adjuster clockwise very little and slow until the belt is running to the outside of the sprocket leaving about 3/16” gap or less if you can stop it there. Then stop with the brake and shut it off. Lower the wheel back to the ground. I then tighten the axle nut up real tight. Then took the Spyder for a ride about three blocks and back to my garage. The gap was about 3/16 to ¼ of an inch. I then loosen the axle nut not real loose but so when I would loosen the adjuster screw I took a ¾” shaft about 1-1/2 foot long and would rap the axle nut and it would move. Leave it on the ground and just turn the adjusting screw just so the plate it goes through is just loose not very loose. Then rap the nut with a solid shaft not had enough it will hurt the nut. Then tighten the axle nut back tight and go for another ride and bring it back and do the same thing. It took me five times and the last time it had 4mm gap. I then went for about a 60 mile ride and back to my garage and it was 4mm. Every time I thought I could loosen the adjusting nut and drive the axle just a little the gap would close up. It is really touchy and take a lot of patients.
I know there are going to be a lot of native comments on this. But it worked for me.
After reading to all the ideas of aligning the belt on a Can Am Spyder I got mind 4mm gap from the inside of the rear sprocket. It took me two afternoons to finely get it correct.. I will list what I did at last and it seems to work.
Loosen the axle nut then jack it up so the wheel is off the ground. Before I did this I had checked my tension and it was OK. Start the Spyder and put it in low gear just at idle. On the right side turn the adjuster clockwise very little and slow until the belt is running to the outside of the sprocket leaving about 3/16” gap or less if you can stop it there. Then stop with the brake and shut it off. Lower the wheel back to the ground. I then tighten the axle nut up real tight. Then took the Spyder for a ride about three blocks and back to my garage. The gap was about 3/16 to ¼ of an inch. I then loosen the axle nut not real loose but so when I would loosen the adjuster screw I took a ¾” shaft about 1-1/2 foot long and would rap the axle nut and it would move. Leave it on the ground and just turn the adjusting screw just so the plate it goes through is just loose not very loose. Then rap the nut with a solid shaft not had enough it will hurt the nut. Then tighten the axle nut back tight and go for another ride and bring it back and do the same thing. It took me five times and the last time it had 4mm gap. I then went for about a 60 mile ride and back to my garage and it was 4mm. Every time I thought I could loosen the adjusting nut and drive the axle just a little the gap would close up. It is really touchy and take a lot of patients.
I know there are going to be a lot of native comments on this. But it worked for me.
jroberts650
New member
That's good you got it figured out but per the service manual, the belt can contact the side of one of the flanges as long as its not both sprockets. Mine is up against the flange on the rear but centered on the front sprocket. If I get the belt a cc width away from the rear it touches the front sprocket. Doesn't really matter as long as it doesn't ride up either flange as it's running.
The belt moves back and forth the whole times you're riding anyway plus it really tracks different in reverse. You'll drive yourself crazy to try to get in perfect. It's a machine for gods sake.
Belt Alignment
Mind goes to the flange in reverse but as soon as I go any distance and stop it will be 3 to 4 mm from the flange. I have put over 400 miles on it and stays the same. I had a hard time to get it there so I am not going to do anything more with it. I am thinking about purchasing a belt tensioner from Doc.
hobbykim
New member
After I adjust my belt on 2014 RT I found if your belt adjust with in specs 1mm to 5mm you good , I adjusted my in 1mm to 1.5mm I found when you drive the belt will move in or out but if in specs you will be okay
Belt alignment problem
Replaced the rear tire on my 2015 rts. Adjusted the belt to the credit card distance tightened the axle, ran it in both forward and reverse while on the jack and the belt stayed in position. Rode about 2 blocks and the belt moves out to the edge of the sprocket. Loosened the axle bolts and aligned the bolt about 8 times and every time it does the same. Put forward pressure on the tire while tightening pounded the axle nuts forward and it still does the same thing. Does anyone have any idea what's causing this and how to fix it. I'm out
of ideas
Chuck
Replaced the rear tire on my 2015 rts. Adjusted the belt to the credit card distance tightened the axle, ran it in both forward and reverse while on the jack and the belt stayed in position. Rode about 2 blocks and the belt moves out to the edge of the sprocket. Loosened the axle bolts and aligned the bolt about 8 times and every time it does the same. Put forward pressure on the tire while tightening pounded the axle nuts forward and it still does the same thing. Does anyone have any idea what's causing this and how to fix it. I'm out
of ideas
Chuck
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
See my post #10 above and also this thread. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?111596-Axle-adjusters&p=1361089#post1361089
When replacing my rear wheel after a tire change, I got the right distance(approx. 2mm) from the flange when it was rolled forward but when I rolled backwards, I had about 5mm from the flange. I do mine using a lift and when the axle is loosened I pound the tire forward using a large rubber mallet to make sure the adjusters are bottomed against the swing arm. I don't believe you can have the CC thickness either forward or backwards due to the fact the tension of the belt varies from the top of the pulley(fwd) to the bottom of the pulley(backward) and the belt "walks". As long as it D/N go to the very outer edge, you'll be GTG. Mac:thumbup:
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