Bearings for 08 GS rear rim

[isweed]

I want to change the bearings and O-rings on rear since I am having rear rim powder coated, does anyone have a complete bearing, O-ring size and how many of each is needed to complete new install, also can I use axle grease for shaft.

 

[arntufun]

At the dealer

Part # 293200094 seal Qty 2 at $6.99 ea
Part # 293350065 big bearing Qty 1 at $22.49 ea
Part # 293350055 small bearing Qty 2 at $8.49 ea


Your Welcome !!! :thumbup:

 

[isweed]

Thanks alot, calling them now:yes:

 

[bill pitman]

Also......

1- large O-ring #293300124
2- small O-ring #293300131

May or may not need but........
I've heard that sometimes the larger thinner O-ring gets damaged when sprocket is removed/installed


Bill

 

[Firefly]

293350055 $5.99 Canam - BALL BEARING (you need 2 of these)

293350065 $17.49 Canam - BEARING (you need 1 of these)

293200094 $4.99 Canam - SEAL (you need 2 of these)

293300124 $1.99 Canam - O-RING (you need 1 of these)

 

[Son_Of_A_Moose_88]

Removing bearings ?

I to will be powdercoating wheels which I just bought on Ebay. My question is , are these bearings just press fit as they seem to be ,or do we need a special tool to remove them ? I dont think I should reuse the bearings presently on this wheel although they do appear to be in excellent condition.

Thanks ,

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

PARTS

Randy you should ask firefly where he gets his parts.......

 

[WaltH]

I want to change the bearings and O-rings on rear since I am having rear rim powder coated, does anyone have a complete bearing, O-ring size and how many of each is needed to complete new install, also can I use axle grease for shaft.

You don't want the bearings for a 2008GS. BRP upgraded the bearings in 2009. Use the 2009 part numbers. They fit. In 2008, two of the three bearings were made in China. The third one was made in USA. In 2009, all three of the bearings were made in the USA.

 

[Firefly]

There's no guarantee where the bearings will come from. I've ordered the same part numbers at the same time and some were made in china and some in the USA. NKG makes them various places.

Once you remove the bearings I would not reuse them. It's not worth the risk as they may get damaged during removal. I use a bushing/bearing punch kit I got at Harbor Freight. A right-sized socket could work too- just make sure it presses on the outside of the bearing only

 

[arntufun]

Randy you should ask firefly where he gets his parts.......

I'm thinking the same thing. How is the markup on these parts so different in price from dealer to dealer ??? I bought my parts in December. :dontknow:



Firefly, How much was that bearing removal tool at Harbor Frieght ???

 

[Firefly]

I'm thinking the same thing. How is the markup on these parts so different in price from dealer to dealer ??? I bought my parts in December. :dontknow:



Firefly, How much was that bearing removal tool at Harbor Freight ???

You don't need a bearing puller. First time I did it I just borrowed a blind hole puller from Auto Zone.....they let you use them for free. But you don't need one - you can just whack them out from behind. I did use a bushing punch from HF to put them in, but a right-sized socket could work too. Just need something to apply even pressure around the outside race of the bearing-- NOT on the inside race.

Here's my original post on it:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...hanged-rear-bearings&highlight=bearing+puller

As far as the parts go--- certainly pricing may vary from one dealer to another and some sell online for less. The last bearings I ordered with the above prices were from Honda East Toledo using the online microfiche.

I've decided to just swap the bearings every OTHER rear tire change--- so around every 15,000 miles. Better to be safe than sorry!

 

[Son_Of_A_Moose_88]

You don't need a bearing puller. First time I did it I just borrowed a blind hole puller from Auto Zone.....they let you use them for free. But you don't need one - you can just whack them out from behind. I did use a bushing punch from HF to put them in, but a right-sized socket could work too. Just need something to apply even pressure around the outside race of the bearing-- NOT on the inside race.

Here's my original post on it:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...hanged-rear-bearings&highlight=bearing+puller

As far as the parts go--- certainly pricing may vary from one dealer to another and some sell online for less. The last bearings I ordered with the above prices were from Honda East Toledo using the online microfiche.

I've decided to just swap the bearings every OTHER rear tire change--- so around every 15,000 miles. Better to be safe than sorry!

Thanks for all this good information

 

[Sarge707]

I will be dealing with this soon:
When you bring it to have the tire changed how much do you break it down?
1- Take off hub
2- Take off Belt Sprocket
3- Take off Rotor?
Are there Bearings still in the wheel when they change the tire?
:dontknow:

 

[SpyderGirl]

I've done this job twice, and will be doing it a third time on another Spyder next weekend. When taking out the bearing on the sprocket, don't forget to remove the snap ring. Then it should just come out pretty easy. A bearing puller / slide hammer will come in handy. Also, the bearing in the wheel requires a special spanner socket to remove the retainer holding the bearing. You could probably get by without by fashioning another tool. I had to do this the first time I did mine, the second time I went ahead and purchased the spanner socket ($70 tool!)

Good luck!