• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Bearing Pieces in oil

Not being able to shift right away is to be expected. The oil pump for the shifting system is running as long as the engine is running. But is in a closed loop when not shifting gears. That means the air will not leave the shifting system until multiple gear shifts are done.
 
Give us the code you are getting we might be able to help you sometimes you do not need the BUDS to clear codes. You did a petty good job.

Thanks. It didn't really give me a code. Instead of showing R (reverse), it show as E but my bike reversed fine. I guess I will have to get the code error code to display.
 
First test ride..Successful!!

Took the bike out this morning for a first test ride. Everything works like it should except the reverse error showing on display. It is official my bike is running again. :clap::ohyea::ohyea::2thumbs::D:D:D:roflblack:

I will have to replace the gasket on the magneto side. Anyone have experiences doing this please help. I did installed it by the book but it leaks. I am thinking should I be using any type of sealant with this gasket to help it seals or I just lucked out on a bad gasket. I ordered another new gasket and second time lucky (hopefully).

Picture of my bike before test ride this morning and the $20.00 luggage rack I put together last summer. I will make a final post of all the tools that I used and a few must do for this job. It will be sometime next week. Thanks
 

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Not being able to shift right away is to be expected. The oil pump for the shifting system is running as long as the engine is running. But is in a closed loop when not shifting gears. That means the air will not leave the shifting system until multiple gear shifts are done.

Thanks.. I am sure that's exactly what it was. Once I manually shifted those gears a few time up and down. It shifted easier and this morning it shifted good during my test ride.
 
Congrats on getting it back together, it is amazing what you can do when you put your mind to it. :thumbup: It s a great feeling when you decide and do it yourself.
 
To pull up code press mode+set+turn signal cancel all at the same time info is on spydercodes app the best app on my phone
 
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To pull up code press mode+set+turn signal cancel all at the same time info is on spydercodes app the best app on my phone

That is not the correct way to pull up codes on a GS/RS. That is for RT and ST.

Press mode button repeatedly to scroll to total engine hours on display.
Press and hold the Hold button. Repeatedly press the flash high beams button 5 times in less than 5 seconds.
 
When an "E" is displayed instead of the gear and the "R", "N" are not flashing. That means there is a fault coming from the Gear Position Sensor. That does mean that the sensor is bad, but could be. Make sure it is not damaged. Screws are tight. Maybe take it off and clean it. Since it is only giving you an "E" in reverse it could be you put the shift lever back on, one or two spline teeth off.
 
My last post for this thread.

If you were following this thread before. I am sorry it took me this long to come up with my last post. Life been really busy and a little riding in between. All my riding will be done for the year now. First nor'easter snow storm hits 2 days ago and this time the white stuff going to stay. I like to listed a few things that you really need to watch while you are doing the job.

1. Get a good shop manual
2. Read it over and over until you have some concepts about the job you about to do.
3. Be patience and walk away for a break if you get overwhelm.
4. Take your time in everything you do. All the parts are machine fits. You shouldn't have to force them together. It you do then stop and look.
5. When you take your piston out, mark it. It was supposed to have marks from the factory but mine didn't. MARK IT ..
6. Once everything is back together. Hand crank it first to make sure everything fit and run before you start the engine.
7. Take pictures , video and write notes. What ever you need to do to help remembering where everything goes or fits.
8. Try to avoid power tools unless you have to. Some nuts and bolts you do need power tools to get it off.


If you choose to take on this task just know that I had minimal knowledge about engines and no hands on experiences at all. It can be done but very trying. Patience and time. Good Luck..

Thank You for following this post, all the help and encouragements. Now I can say Been there Done that!! :doorag::thumbup:


attached a few pictures some of the tools I used.
 

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Nice work! Its great to see someone take the time, educate themselves, and take the initiative to get it done vs. the standard "take it to your dealer" response.
As you found out these things are really not that complex once you dive into them.
 
engine apart

You are one gutsy guy! A difficult undertaking and hats off to you. I took the engine out of my 1800 Gold Wing and just took off the back of the engine and the rental, not the purchase price was over $200 for the specialty tools and to split the case and reassembly would have required over $2500 in specialty tools.
Getting back on your topic, considering the time it took you, minus the time it would take an experienced BRP mechanic, are the prices quoted you really out of line? At $75 to $100 per hour of shop time it would have been the cheaper option to buy a used engine out of a wreck and have it installed rather than having your engine overhauled as you did.
 
While I like to work on stuff and have rebuilt many engines in my years, I think I would bite the bullet and just buy a new 998 engine for a little less than $2K. But this post is saved in my bookmarks if ever I need it and decide to tear down the engine anway...

Bob
 
You are one gutsy guy! A difficult undertaking and hats off to you. I took the engine out of my 1800 Gold Wing and just took off the back of the engine and the rental, not the purchase price was over $200 for the specialty tools and to split the case and reassembly would have required over $2500 in specialty tools.
Getting back on your topic, considering the time it took you, minus the time it would take an experienced BRP mechanic, are the prices quoted you really out of line? At $75 to $100 per hour of shop time it would have been the cheaper option to buy a used engine out of a wreck and have it installed rather than having your engine overhauled as you did.

I spent a total of about $1000 CAD. $500 for parts and about $500 for tools including a shop crane and 2 good quality torque wrenchs. The estimate quotes over the phone was $6000 and $9000 to do the job from 2 different shops. An used engine on eBay runs about $2000 US or more before shipping and fees. I haven't seen an used engine anywhere near where I am. The total hours I spent on it max. 30 hours or less without counting the time waiting for parts. I guess if someone was considering doing this they can work out their own numbers. I was at the point that I had nothing to lose. I guess it wasn't so much the money but to proof that it can be done at a reasonable cost with minimal mechanic experience. I am always ready and happy to pay someone for a job well done at a reasonable price. What is reasonable price is quite different to each of us I guess. A job well done is so hard to come by these days even with good intentions. That's how all this get started. Thanks for your comment and the experience I gained through this whole exercise.. Priceless. :D:D:D:thumbup:

Thanks and is snowing like crazy where I am ...
 
bearings pieces in oil

I am saving this for it is my turn the rebuild my engine . Did you get all the problems resolved after you put it together. That was good work.

:congrats:
 
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