Battery on 2011 RT won't hold a charge

[boborgera]

A Spyder should not run down in two weeks...especially in warmer weather. I suspect you have deeper problems. Better check your battery and frame connections, and maybe test the battery.

:agree: My two wheeler sits for over 3 weeks at a time and starts right up,
My Rhino will sit for months and start right up. [5 year old battery]
I don't use a tender on either of them. I find if i have to use a tender to keep a battery charged that's only sitting a couple of weeks'
And there's nothing else wrong it's time for a new battery.

 

[molinoman]

I just came back from Afghanistan in June after buying buying my 2010 Triumph 1700 Thunderbird in February. It was not left on a charge at all. Started right up upon my return.

It does sound like you may have another problem if you have to (this is in reply for Retiredcgrider) keep it on charge like that.

Don't get me wrong I am not against battery tenders (personally I use a Triumph Optimizer charger) they do serve a purpose...but I was surprised that my bike did start up after sitting idle for four and a half months.

Dennis

 

[firstshirt]

BATTERY DRAINAGE

I HAVE AN RT ALSO. NEW 2011. I NOW ALWAYS PLUG IT INTO A BATTERY TENDER AT THE END OF A RIDE. ALSO HEARD TODAY AT A SPYDER CLUB GET-TO-GATHER THAT IF YOU LEAVE THE KEY IN BUT TURNED OFF ,IT WILL DRAIN THE BATTERY DOWN, HAS ANYONE ELSE HAD THIS PROBLEM ,OR KNOW THE VALIDITY OF THIS SITUATION???? MY THANKS TO RETIREDCGRIDER FOR THE TIP ON THE BATTERY TENDER.

 

[Lamonster]

I HAVE AN RT ALSO. NEW 2011. I NOW ALWAYS PLUG IT INTO A BATTERY TENDER AT THE END OF A RIDE. ALSO HEARD TODAY AT A SPYDER CLUB GET-TO-GATHER THAT IF YOU LEAVE THE KEY IN BUT TURNED OFF ,IT WILL DRAIN THE BATTERY DOWN, HAS ANYONE ELSE HAD THIS PROBLEM ,OR KNOW THE VALIDITY OF THIS SITUATION???? MY THANKS TO RETIREDCGRIDER FOR THE TIP ON THE BATTERY TENDER.

There is no truth to that, I checked with a BRP factory tech on that rumor.

 

[dave01]

Battery drainage has been an ongoing issue for me for a LONG time. No cure for mine yet and a battery tender isnt an option for me. Maybe BRP will find the issue, maybe not. I am not holding my breath anymore though.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?32887-dave01-question

 

[GeekyRider]

Thank you!

I just wanted to say Thank you to Dudley for posting these. Long story short for me, 1) I installed a new battery a few months ago, but didn't really ride after because it was pretty cold here in DC area. 2) yesterday I installed a dual USB with Volt meter rocker switch, something I've been wanting to do for a while. After running the engine for a while, the volt readings kept on dropping which caused me to think that I had a short or leakage somewhere (I am not super smart about electricity). So I put on my software engineering hat and decided to remove the switch, then completely remove everything I entered and nothing, voltage kept on dropping. 3) Researching and hoping that I did not have to take it to the dealer, I stumbled on this post. Today, I went back to check my battery terminals and "tight wasn't tight enough". 4) Started the engine, checked with volt meter, battery was holding 14v while running and was not dropping.

Thank you!

Too many times I have read where a dealer seems to brush off a Spyder owner. My guess here:

1. As was posted, bad cell.
2. Possible malfunctioning charging system (highly unlikely, but still probable)
3. Something is draining your battery when the Spyder is turned off (most likely cause). That will take some investigative work on the dealer's part.
4. Loose battery cables are always a probable. Many times what seems tight is not tight enough for a battery connection. The cables need to be TIGHT!

Another thought...I don't know of any dealer that charges the battery to full charge before turning over a new Spyder to a new owner. So, with the few miles you have over the month you have owned it, the Spyder probably never has been ridden for a long period of time, thereby never reaching full charge. Couple that with loose battery cables and the charge will never complete. The dealer charging the battery will not be affected by the loose cables, only when you try and charge it as you ride. After the dealer charged the battery and you rode it, the lights, etc., drained it again and if the cables are loose, it never charged up. So, my final guess, loose battery cables.

 

[hensmanj4220]

I have a 2011 Can AM Spyder RTS-SE5 and just experienced a Check DPS Warning - it comes and goes (seems to reset itself). I checked the fuses associated with the DPS, but found they are OK. Is there a sensor in line somewhere that could be failing? Steering is fine - no problems - just this crazy warning light that I cannot track down to fix.

 

[ARtraveler]

ldpost: You might want to check the date on this one. Most of the three pages took place back in 2011. A couple posts from 2012 and then 2018. :bowdown:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I have a 2011 Can AM Spyder RTS-SE5 and just experienced Check DPS Warning - it comes and goes (seems to reset itself). I check the fuses associated with the DPS, but found they are OK. Is there a sensor in line somewhere that could be failing. Steering is find - no problems - just this crazy warning light that I cannot track down to fix.

ARtraveler is correct about the age of this post ..... however I'll try and answer your question ..... the early year Spyders 08 to 11 ( or so ) had serious issues with Failing DPS units ..... BRP actually had a RECALL on them and they were Replaced for FREE .... it's now 2023 so I doubt they will swap yours for free .... a Dealer could tell you ( based on your VIN ) whether yours was done EVER ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[sledge]

I would vote for lose battery connections

yes...... that would be my First thing to check ... and the Cheapest too.

 

[pegasus1300]

Yes, check the battery connections. And while you are there put star washers under the screws, so they won't come loose again. Next step is how old is the battery and is it in good shape? Have it load tested at an auto parts store or shop. Also, the early VTwin had a charging systen that was barely adequate to supply the needs of the vehicle when running. Are you running any extra electrical loads? If your system is at max you may not be getting enough electrical power to feed the battery and the DPS as it is a real power hog. BTW the Spyder electrical system will NEVER fully charge the battery, unless it is fully charged to begin with. Charge it with a Battery charger not a maintainer. Again a maintainer will not fully charge a battery either