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Battery Help

wolfeman220940

New member
Hello every one,

So I have a small problem I live in apartment complex that does not have any outlets outside that I can leave my 2015 F3S on a battery tender. Is there another type of a battery that I can install that will help me leave the bike for about 2 weeks in between rides? the other option that I can think of is pull the battery out after every ride and take it to my apartment to put a tender on it.
 
Well....

that would be a solution but then again try leaving it for two weeks and see if it will die. I don't use a tender and have gone weeks without ryding and it works everytime. :dontknow: months for sure...
 
I agree with Chupaca but when you take it out be sure to take it on a decent ride that is long enough to charge the battery. Good luck.
 
Hello every one,

So I have a small problem I live in apartment complex that does not have any outlets outside that I can leave my 2015 F3S on a battery tender. Is there another type of a battery that I can install that will help me leave the bike for about 2 weeks in between rides? the other option that I can think of is pull the battery out after every ride and take it to my apartment to put a tender on it.

another option would be to simply not care. I know people in your situation and they simply do not care and they have never had a problem. They say that if they feel they are experiencing slow/hard starting they'll swap out their batteries but I only know of one instance were someone has done that and only because they "felt" it necessary. Relax, enjoy and ride.
 
Hello every one,

So I have a small problem I live in apartment complex that does not have any outlets outside that I can leave my 2015 F3S on a battery tender. Is there another type of a battery that I can install that will help me leave the bike for about 2 weeks in between rides? the other option that I can think of is pull the battery out after every ride and take it to my apartment to put a tender on it.

You have been reading too much facebook or Spyderlovers. There is no reason to put a tender on for only 2 weeks between rides. You should be able to start it even after 3 months. If not. You have attached an accessory that is drawing power when parked or there is something else wrong. Then fix the problem not hide it with a battery tender.
 
You have been reading too much facebook or Spyderlovers. There is no reason to put a tender on for only 2 weeks between rides. You should be able to start it even after 3 months. If not. You have attached an accessory that is drawing power when parked or there is something else wrong. Then fix the problem not hide it with a battery tender.

Thank you. Now I just have to find out what is drawing power.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
trouble shooting

If you want to determine what, if anything, is drawing power, first get a volt-ohm meter (it can be a cheap analog one or a digital one, you aren't looking for precision). Then detach the positive battery cable, set the VOM to Ohms and attach the leads to the battery terminal and cable bridging the open circuit. If you get a reading other than zero, current is flowing so something is pulling power with the ignition off. Then reattach the cable and start pulling fuses and bridging the gap at teh fuse block with the meter leads, that will tell you in general what is pulling the power. Once you have determined which circuit is the problem, start looking at each item on the circuit. It's time consuming, but you are working with DC so it's not dangerous. Your alternative is to take your Spyder to to a shop that specializes in vehicle electrics which will do the same thing, but it will not be cheap because it takes so much time.
 
And there my friend is your ultimate answer. I did not know this existed.

Jack

when we had our family cottage, i stored the boat battery,
riding mower battery in a shed and put the solare panel in the window inside the shed. in the spring all batteries were charged and ready to use.
 
If you want to determine what, if anything, is drawing power, first get a volt-ohm meter (it can be a cheap analog one or a digital one, you aren't looking for precision). Then detach the positive battery cable, set the VOM to Ohms and attach the leads to the battery terminal and cable bridging the open circuit. If you get a reading other than zero, current is flowing so something is pulling power with the ignition off. Then reattach the cable and start pulling fuses and bridging the gap at teh fuse block with the meter leads, that will tell you in general what is pulling the power. Once you have determined which circuit is the problem, start looking at each item on the circuit. It's time consuming, but you are working with DC so it's not dangerous. Your alternative is to take your Spyder to to a shop that specializes in vehicle electrics which will do the same thing, but it will not be cheap because it takes so much time.

I would agree except the gauge cluster draws a tiny amount of power for the clock. Pull fuse F1 in the left fuse box first.
 
JUMPERS

try something like this:
https://www.amazon.ca/16000mAh-Emer...7806250&sr=1-11&keywords=battery+jump+starter
618PVoIDIHL._SL1000_.jpg

i have this one, and it's a really good one.... not only is it small and convenient, but it will jump start a truck 15 times before needing to be plugged into an outlet.... it will also charge the battery in your phone and many other items....
but ya, Chu'ee may be correct... 2 weeks in PARK, you may not need a 'trickler'.... aka; battery tender....
Dan P
SPYD3R
 
I had a 2012 RS and now a 2015 F3 both Spyder's batteries died after 2 weeks when temps dropped lower then 0 degrees during cold snaps in a garage environment. I was able to put them on a charger and batteries would come back to life. Now I keep it on a tender if I don't ride it within week.
 
Do not use the ohms

Do NOT use the ohms:banghead: that is only used to measure resistance you have to get a meter that measures currant.

And all Spyders draw currant if you don't use your Spyder for more than a month it is recommended that you put it on a charger don't go leaving it for 3 months like you have been told.



If you want to determine what, if anything, is drawing power, first get a volt-ohm meter (it can be a cheap analog one or a digital one, you aren't looking for precision). Then detach the positive battery cable, set the VOM to Ohms and attach the leads to the battery terminal and cable bridging the open circuit. If you get a reading other than zero, current is flowing so something is pulling power with the ignition off. Then reattach the cable and start pulling fuses and bridging the gap at teh fuse block with the meter leads, that will tell you in general what is pulling the power. Once you have determined which circuit is the problem, start looking at each item on the circuit. It's time consuming, but you are working with DC so it's not dangerous. Your alternative is to take your Spyder to to a shop that specializes in vehicle electrics which will do the same thing, but it will not be cheap because it takes so much time.
 
OHMS

Ohms is a measure of current. You are probably thinking of the kind of meter that can measure current without breaking the circuit using a inductive clamp. The problem in this case is that is worthless because you can't isolate individual circuits when using induction. On further thought, induction could isolate the current to a given fuse, but I don't think it could isolate beyond there. OOPS, YOU ARE RIGHT, I forgot my basic Ohm's law, Ohms is a measure of resistance not current, Amps is a measure of current. You would need a meter that has an Ampere setting. My bad. I'm used to trouble shooting telephone gear where we are looking for shorts and grounds, not current flow.
 
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What you are looking for is an AGM battery. I use the Odyssey Brand and highly recommend it. It can survive 6 month long winters with temperatures reaching -30 without being plugged in ... Actually the colder it is the better. Honest. :)

I would use the PC680 as it fits nearly everywhere. Also it uses so very little actual acid that it can be shipped using the mail. Mind you it is very heavy (almost the whole thing is lead). They aren't cheap as they sell for over $150CDN here in Canada.
 
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