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Battery dead

Dochands

Member
Not sure this is anything to worry about but when I went to start my bike last night it was dead as the proverbial doornail.

Threw on the trickle charger and it started up this morning.

It's only less than a week since I drove it home from the dealer after its 6000 mile service.

Is there anything I should be checking or concerned about?
 
Check the battery connections for corrosion, clean if necessary, and make sure they are tightened properly. If you find no troubles there, check the charging voltage. If the Spyder is charging, you probably have a bad battery. Your dealer can do a load test to confirm.
 
Check the battery connections for corrosion, clean if necessary, and make sure they are tightened properly. If you find no troubles there, check the charging voltage. If the Spyder is charging, you probably have a bad battery. Your dealer can do a load test to confirm.

You need to post something that I can disagree with. It just doesn't feel right agreeing with anyone all the time.... Except for maybe Lamont! :roflblack:
 
Battery problems

I had the same problem. It took a little convincing to get the Spyder people replace the battery. It just wouldn't take a charge, trickle or 10 amp. My question is: how long is the average battery good for using an automatic trickle charger whenever the Spyder is not used?

You wrote:
I had a battery crap out after 3 months...they are covered by warranty for the first 6, thank heaven
 
I had the same problem. It took a little convincing to get the Spyder people replace the battery. It just wouldn't take a charge, trickle or 10 amp. My question is: how long is the average battery good for using an automatic trickle charger whenever the Spyder is not used?

You wrote:
They are variable. Depends on the brand, the individual battery, and how you hold your mouth. I've seen them last anywhere from a few months to a dozen years. nojoke
 
It took a trickle charge and started right up. Not sure what happened but I'll keep and eye on it for the time being.

Thanks for the info.
 
Need a battery, I think

My 2010 RT is behaving in a similar way. Flickering displays and blanking out as I hit start button. I've come to the conclusion via posts that I have a potential battery issue. I purchased this 2nd hand last January so presuming it is the original. Where is the best place to buy a battery and am I understanding that I do not get an OEM that I should get a YTX24HL Yuasa? and is it also BS? Do I get one that I need to add liquid to or self contained, non maintenance? Thanks, I am a newbie and not very mechanically inclined. :(
 
You need to post something that I can disagree with. It just doesn't feel right agreeing with anyone all the time.... Except for maybe Lamont! :roflblack:

Check the tire pressure gauge thread. Seems I may have stirred up some folks......:2thumbs:
 
Check the ground system

Not sure this is anything to worry about but when I went to start my bike last night it was dead as the proverbial doornail.

Threw on the trickle charger and it started up this morning.

It's only less than a week since I drove it home from the dealer after its 6000 mile service.

Is there anything I should be checking or concerned about?

One of the overlooked places for corrosion is the chassis ground. :doorag:

So...after you checked, cleaned and tightened your battery connections, follow the ground cable to the chassis common ground point.
If you see any corrosion, I would recommend you take all the cables off, clean then then carefully re-assemble and re-torque the connection.
Both the battery connections and the ground reference is critical to the voltage levels for all of the sensors and electronics on any bike or automobile.
If you still have problems do a load test. If it fails, replace the battery.
Good luck with your :spyder2:.



- Mike
 
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