Bajaron sway bar links.

[ARNIE R]

Having my ST-S laser aligned on Monday regarding the left hand curve issue.

He was asking some questions about the issue and mentioned Bajaron's sway bar and links, which I told him that I had already installed.

He then asked about the "tightness" of the ball joint connections in the links and wanted to know if they were all firm or loose. He showed me a box of several links he had in stock and found that there were various degrees of tightness from one end to the other. He had attempted to find out if this may have any effect on the steering/handling, but had not received any answer yet.

For anyone who has installed these parts themselves, have you noticed whether this has affected the bike control/stability in any way?

 

[Highwayman2013]

The metal links are stiffer, but I couldn't feel any difference. Just the peace of mind getting rid of the plastic ones.

 

[I-Day]

Having my ST-S laser aligned on Monday regarding the left hand curve issue.

He was asking some questions about the issue and mentioned Bajaron's sway bar and links, which I told him that I had already installed.

He then asked about the "tightness" of the ball joint connections in the links and wanted to know if they were all firm or loose. He showed me a box of several links he had in stock and found that there were various degrees of tightness from one end to the other. He had attempted to find out if this may have any effect on the steering/handling, but had not received any answer yet.

For anyone who has installed these parts themselves, have you noticed whether this has affected the bike control/stability in any way?

i put the Bajaron sway bar on and then had a laser alignment on my F3T and it made a HUGE difference!

 

[ARNIE R]

He was referring to the round sections (balls?) of the links that are inserted into the ends of the link where the bolt passes thru them. Some of the balls were tight, but not binding, and some were very free moving and could very easily be turned without effort. He was expressing an idea, but not an opinion.

As long as no one has had any issues with this, I am good.

 

[BajaRon]

This person has not contacted me. But I am more than happy to talk to him.

These ball joints have a tolerance range of about 2 thousandths of an inch. But this is enough to give varying amounts of friction in the ball swivel. The stress on these ball joints is tremendous. Even if you could not budge them with your hands it would make no difference in the way the bar, links, suspension functioned. The relatively small amount of resistance even the stiffest of these ball joints exerts against the sway bar is meaningless.

I would love to reduce this tolerance variance so that every ball joint had the exact same friction coefficient. But to do so requires a completely different, much more expensive manufacturing process. It would add about $30 (My Cost) to the link set and would not improve function or safety at all. I have determined that though these ball joints do not come out as uniform as I would like, it just is not worth the additional cost.

By the way. Not a single one of these Billet Aluminum Heim Joint Links has ever failed. This includes accidents where one or both links suffered enough impact to significantly gouge the aluminum.

You are good to go! :thumbup:

 

[Chupaca]

There you have it....

:agree: from the man who knows joints...(hiem joints that is):roflblack:

 

[Bam Bam and Pebbles]

:agree: from the man who knows joints...(hiem joints that is):roflblack:

You never know. He just might know about other types of joints too.

 

[Peteoz]

Yeah, I had a loose Helm joint recently, Arnie .......it manifested itself as a clicking when the suspension compressed. I found no change to handling/steering in any way. I have replaced the Baja with a stock Spyder joint temporarily until I receive a new one from Ron (on the way). I have noticed no handling change using this temporary setup either.

Pete

 

[No 2817]

He was referring to the round sections (balls?) of the links that are inserted into the ends of the link where the bolt passes thru them. Some of the balls were tight, but not binding, and some were very free moving and could very easily be turned without effort. He was expressing an idea, but not an opinion.

As long as no one has had any issues with this, I am good.

My balls are loose but I do get some binding at times. (quick adjustment and there fine) (I am expressing an opinion) Ron's Hiem links are ok with me.

Chris

 

[Lew L]

Sway bar end links

Plastic :yikes: sway bar end links????? Just sounds like and oxymoron to me. Maybe carbon fiber or something REALLY strong plastic ( maybe???) 6000 and 7000 series aluminum approach the strength of low carbon steel.

Does any auto manufacturer use plastic for sway bar parts????( Other than bushings) My old HiPo Mustang had plastic timing chain sprocket parts----- guess what I found in the oil:yikes:. Changed to higher quality after market parts.

Kaos

 

[Bob Denman]

The OEM end links are made from a polymer material...
Have you taken a look at the ones on your bike? :dontknow: :shocked:

 

[Lew L]

Yes

And they are metal( along with Ron's anti-sway bar. How BRP could use plastic in critical suspension parts is a:joke:.

 

[ARNIE R]

This person has not contacted me. But I am more than happy to talk to him.

These ball joints have a tolerance range of about 2 thousandths of an inch. But this is enough to give varying amounts of friction in the ball swivel. The stress on these ball joints is tremendous. Even if you could not budge them with your hands it would make no difference in the way the bar, links, suspension functioned. The relatively small amount of resistance even the stiffest of these ball joints exerts against the sway bar is meaningless.

I would love to reduce this tolerance variance so that every ball joint had the exact same friction coefficient. But to do so requires a completely different, much more expensive manufacturing process. It would add about $30 (My Cost) to the link set and would not improve function or safety at all. I have determined that though these ball joints do not come out as uniform as I would like, it just is not worth the additional cost.

By the way. Not a single one of these Billet Aluminum Heim Joint Links has ever failed. This includes accidents where one or both links suffered enough impact to significantly gouge the aluminum.

You are good to go! :thumbup:

Thank you, Sir. I kinda figured that there was not an issue. I had only recently installed the parts a few weeks back and commented on how much better the ride and handling had become and that left turning issue was present before and after. That is why I wanted them to look at the alignment since I know that it doesn't take much of a misalignment to throw things off, especially on a machine that tends to be twitchy in the first place.

Really appreciate the response.

 

[SteveLaoyster]

Thou it's not on the installation papers, I greased my new heim joints before I put them on. Took some time but gives me peace of mind.

 

[ARNIE R]

Just returned home from having the Spyder laser aligned.

I haven't had a chance to take it out on any twistie yet due to the extremely windy conditions plus the wife has demanded some projects to get done around the house today.

Now yesterday was also extremely windy with heavy gusts such as today is. Yesterday, I was getting blown all over the place, even on the straights. Today, on the way home I took the quicker main bypass, which is mostly straight and hardly got blown around at all - it felt much more in control.

They said there was a negative 10 on one wheel and a negative 20 on the other in relation to the rear wheel. I hope this helps when I get out to test it further.

Only 90 bucks.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

My balls are loose but I do get some binding at times. (quick adjustment and there fine)

That comment is just begging for a response, but I'll refrain!!! :roflblack: :roflblack: :roflblack:

 

[BajaRon]

Thou it's not on the installation papers, I greased my new heim joints before I put them on. Took some time but gives me peace of mind.

The Heim Joint Links should not be lubricated. Grease or oil will attract dirt and other contaminants which will act as an abrasive and eventually destroy the joint. A dry lubricant would probably be OK if you really wanted to do something along those lines.

 

[Micha.]

By the way. Not a single one of these Billet Aluminum Heim Joint Links has ever failed. This includes accidents where one or both links suffered enough impact to significantly gouge the aluminum.

You are good to go! :thumbup:

Sorry. Your heim joint links, these begin to rattle after several thousand km (ca 30.000 km). They definitely have far too great tolerance. Even the clipre rust. I'm disappointed.

 

[Micha.]

Hello Ron,

Thanks again for your quick support. The new replacement Join Links are much better than the old version. I just installed the new one. That doesn't wiggle anymore. Many thanks for the support "also across the atlantic" .

Best regards from Germany ans always stay healthy
Micha

 

[gkamer]

By the way. Not a single one of these Billet Aluminum Heim Joint Links has ever failed. This includes accidents where one or both links suffered enough impact to significantly gouge the aluminum.

You are good to go! :thumbup:

Exactly why I buy quality products. Thanks....