Bad relay?

[packbuckbrew]

Could a bad relay cause my taillights to fail to shut off at shut down? I was messing with the taillights with some mods and blew the 15 amp fuse at f1. Replaced the fuse, now the taillights will not shut off. Could this be the relay? If so, which one?

 

[packbuckbrew]

Starting to figure this out, it is not the "taillights" staying on, it is th "brake light". I think the break light switch (BLS) could be acting up, can that happen? How is this fixed?

 

[NancysToy]

Let's go back to the mods. What did you modify, and why did it blow the fuse? I suspect the work you did is the cause of your problem.

 

[packbuckbrew]

Oh, I am very sure the work I did caused the problem! Let's just say I am a far better oral surgeon than spyder mechanic! Anyway, I added the ESI rear bright sides with the RIPS add-on as well as the third and forth tail light from tricled. All went well. Great directions, very straight forward. Was out riding and noticed one of the bright sides not working. Went home pulled off the panels and checked the connections. The connections looked good, ran the wires no fraying or possible short that I could see. Decided to bypass the RIPs to see if that was the problem, when I plugged in the light directly it blew F1. Replaced the fuse, checked connections , and turned her on again, fuse blew again. Decided to unplug the ESI light and rips on that side and put her back together. All working fine until at lunch I notice that the taillights stayed on after I had shut the bike off. Would not shut off when I got home either. I pulled it apart and unplugged everything I had added accept left the positaps in place without the lead wires from the mods, still the lights would not shut off. Messed around with the brake and realized it was the brighter brake light that was staying on. It is now functioning normally, but I think the brake light switch should be replaced. Your thoughts? Sorry this was so long.

 

[NancysToy]

The brake light switch is a possibility. It could be damaged, or out of adjustment. With luck, the contacts were just burned together from the excessive load on the circuit due to your mods, and the brake lights will work normally again now that you have cleared the fault. Mixing a number of added components that were never intended to work together is always a risk. It can cause unforeseen problems, or even damage the stock system. I hope you find and eliminate the cause...and can repair the effects.

 

[Motavar]

If you put the old bulbs back in does the problem go away?

 

[packbuckbrew]

Actually, those mods are completely separate light fixtures, but thanks. I really think it is the brake light switch acting up.

 

[challman]

The brake light switch is a possibility. It could be damaged, or out of adjustment. With luck, the contacts were just burned together from the excessive load on the circuit due to your mods, and the brake lights will work normally again now that you have cleared the fault. Mixing a number of added components that were never intended to work together is always a risk. It can cause unforeseen problems, or even damage the stock system. I hope you find and eliminate the cause...and can repair the effects.

I have to ask. Are we saying that you turn the bike off and the brake lights stay on?

If that is the case it isn't the brake light switch because It should have NO power with the switch turned off. I suggest you recheck your wiring. you may have hooked constant battery power to the brake light hot side

 

[packbuckbrew]

Exactly!
That is why it does not matter on key position. It is the brake light switch sticking in the on position even when the brakes are disengaged.

 

[retread]

My 08 GS needs the key on for the brake lights to work, do you have an RT?

john

 

[packbuckbrew]

2010 RT-S

 

[challman]

Exactly!
That is why it does not matter on key position. It is the brake light switch sticking in the on position even when the brakes are disengaged.

I have never seen a vehicle which had break lights work with the key in the off position. If you are right about the key position and break lights then it could be the break switch. If I am right then there should not be power to the break switch and therefore this problem is not the switch, but something else. Any other RT riders who can comment on the break lights working with the key off?

 

[packbuckbrew]

Thanks everyone. When my key is in the off position and you step on the brake, the brake light comes on. I am hearing the click you refer to now. It has not gotten "stuck" again, but I plan to replace the BLS anyway just to make sure. Is this a job I could do myself? I have not yet looked as to where the location of the BLS is. I probably will just have my dealer change it out at my next oil change at 9000 miles.

 

[dave711]

on mine.. 2010 rt... the brake light works key or not.

 

[packbuckbrew]

Changing the switch is fairly straight forward but does require you to remove a lot of tupperware.

I'd say that a momentary current surge caused by a mod stuck the contacts and if this were not a critical safety function I'd forget it, but you do sorta want people to notice if you hit the brake.

On the RT the brake lights and emergency flashers are on the same non-keyed circuit so they can operate at all times.

So where is it located, I don't mind taking off tupperware, I just don't want to have to pull the engine out or something:yikes: