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Backfire issues

jwf25011

New member
I installed the Cat Conversions kit over the winter on my wife's 2012 RTS. She already had the 2 Brothers exhaust, now it backfires when shifting 1st to 2nd and sometimes 2nd to 3rd and this morning when I rode it to work it did it 3rd to 4th never did that before. If you roll off it just a hair it won't do it at all I ride it like I stole it and so does she in order to keep up with me (F6B Rider). Is there a concern here? It doesn't bother her but it bothers me as I can hear it with me riding in front of her on my F6B. I've ran a cleaner through the fuel, but haven't pulled the plugs to see if one is fowled. She has just over 5K on it. Any other thoughts before I bring it down to Pitbull.

Thanks John Jay
 
I installed the Cat Conversions kit over the winter on my wife's 2012 RTS. She already had the 2 Brothers exhaust, now it backfires when shifting 1st to 2nd and sometimes 2nd to 3rd and this morning when I rode it to work it did it 3rd to 4th never did that before. If you roll off it just a hair it won't do it at all I ride it like I stole it and so does she in order to keep up with me (F6B Rider). Is there a concern here? It doesn't bother her but it bothers me as I can hear it with me riding in front of her on my F6B. I've ran a cleaner through the fuel, but haven't pulled the plugs to see if one is fowled. She has just over 5K on it. Any other thoughts before I bring it down to Pitbull.

Thanks John Jay
sounds like you might need a fuel controler since not standard exhaust but :dontknow:
 
I have a 2012 RS-S with a Yoshi R-77 pipe. My does that in the morning when I begin riding it on 2-3 bars. It normally happen when I don't fully close the throttle when decelerating.

I also have a K&N Air filter so I live with it.
 
been there!

I hardly ever comment here any more- working or riding.!..but... when I got my 2012 RT, FIRST THING I DID was to let the dealer install a cat-bypass and after market muffler. NEVER ran right afterwards, backfiring and running lean (throwing codes). they shoped it several times to diagnose problem with no
avail - finely they (spyder tech) convinced me to invest in a fuel management system and purchased the PcV at 600 bucks. That didn't work either AFTER 6MO. OF RIDING-same situation. so, after 2 years I decided to return everything to stock for the exception of the cat-bypass, NO way I was going to
put that back on . NO more problems and 6 months free of troubles. so, my advice to you would be - go back to stock! not worth the ever ending problems in these rare cases that is! NOW to dealing with heat and that nasty gas smell this coming summer again.:banghead:
my 1c worth on the subject and happy riding everyone.
 
Depends..!

I also have an RS sm5 with the yoshimura R77 with JT's air cleaner body and K&N filter. Being a manual you can control this but the semi autos are a bit harder to control. You can go to a controler, and they do help, but they bring on other issues. :thumbup:
 
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The five dollar fix

IMO, the problem is , some of these pipes are too free flowing . They do not provide the necessary back pressure and may cause a lean condition. Here's the five dollar fix. Go to the hardware store and buy a 4 inch shower drain cover. Cut thru half of the diameter. Form the cover into a cone shape a little bigger than the pipe, then jam it into the inlet of your pipe. This will increase the back pressure of the pipe by adding a little restriction. It can be " tuned " some by cutting the center of the cone opening a little bigger. I have an older yoshi rs3. It sounds very bad ass, but after a season or two I was ready to quiet it down a bit. It did crack and pop some on decel, and my home made " baffle " calmed it right down. It.'s roughly 20-25 percent quieter now, but still sounds good. For 5 dollars it's certainly worth a try. Oh, the bike still runs excellent too. Make sure you buy a metal cover.:thumbup:
 

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:agree: Either get a controller, and dump some more fuel into the mix...

...or do it, "COZ STYLE..." :2thumbs:

More fuel, or less flow; the choice is yours... :shocked:
 
The RT engine is not "tuned" the same as the RS engine. The aftermarket silencer along with the removed CAT has a much different effect on the ECM on the RT engine. Aftermarket fuel management systems often do not work on the RT engine for that same reason. You can go one or the other. That is, remove the cat and leave the stock silencer or leave the cat and install an aftermarket silencer.
 
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My Point

The RT engine is not "tuned" the same as the RS engine. The aftermarket silencer along with the removed CAT has a much different effect on the ECM on the RT engine. Aftermarket fuel management systems often do not work on the RT engine for that same reason. You can go one or the other. That is, remove the cat and leave the stock silencer or leave the cat and install an aftermarket silencer.
That' s my point Bruiser. When the cat is removed, and an aftermarket pipe is installed there isn't nearly enough back pressure for the engine to run right. This baffle might take care of it, might not. I would try this approach be fore I bought a fuel management system that may or may not work for hundreds of dollars. I'm definately no RT expert. You guys know better than me. I just thought I'd throw my experience out there if somebody wanted to invest five bucks to try it. Physics is physics. :roflblack:
 
I hardly ever comment here any more- working or riding.!..but... when I got my 2012 RT, FIRST THING I DID was to let the dealer install a cat-bypass and after market muffler. NEVER ran right afterwards, backfiring and running lean (throwing codes). they shoped it several times to diagnose problem with no
avail - finely they (spyder tech) convinced me to invest in a fuel management system and purchased the PcV at 600 bucks. That didn't work either AFTER 6MO. OF RIDING-same situation. so, after 2 years I decided to return everything to stock for the exception of the cat-bypass, NO way I was going to
put that back on . NO more problems and 6 months free of troubles. so, my advice to you would be - go back to stock! not worth the ever ending problems in these rare cases that is! NOW to dealing with heat and that nasty gas smell this coming summer again.:banghead:
my 1c worth on the subject and happy riding everyone.

Thanks as long as it doesn't bother my wife I'm good with it. Her rode name is firecracker so it fits.
 
That' s my point Bruiser. When the cat is removed, and an aftermarket pipe is installed there isn't nearly enough back pressure for the engine to run right. This baffle might take care of it, might not. I would try this approach be fore I bought a fuel management system that may or may not work for hundreds of dollars. I'm definately no RT expert. You guys know better than me. I just thought I'd throw my experience out there if somebody wanted to invest five bucks to try it. Physics is physics. :roflblack:


Always helps to have different fixes. :thumbup:
 
IMO, the problem is , some of these pipes are too free flowing . They do not provide the necessary back pressure and may cause a lean condition. Here's the five dollar fix. Go to the hardware store and buy a 4 inch shower drain cover. Cut thru half of the diameter. Form the cover into a cone shape a little bigger than the pipe, then jam it into the inlet of your pipe. This will increase the back pressure of the pipe by adding a little restriction. It can be " tuned " some by cutting the center of the cone opening a little bigger. I have an older yoshi rs3. It sounds very bad ass, but after a season or two I was ready to quiet it down a bit. It did crack and pop some on decel, and my home made " baffle " calmed it right down. It.'s roughly 20-25 percent quieter now, but still sounds good. For 5 dollars it's certainly worth a try. Oh, the bike still runs excellent too. Make sure you buy a metal cover.:thumbup:

Yeah it never backfires on deceleration and I thought it would as I really push it. But only on acceleration and only over 4500rpm. Anything under that or a small roll off nothing. Thanks for the tip.
 
SM machines seem to be much more forgiving with exhaust mods and most run really good with no fuel modifiers. SE machines can be bastards with decel and shift popping. Some run just as bad if not worse with fuel mods too.

I agree with Coz, you have to try to work with the baffle.
 
I'm with the baffle crowd. A friend who owns his own cycle shop welds a large washer in the end of the pipe. Works great. :thumbup: Tom :spyder:
 
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