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Audio: iPod Integration Cable Doesn't Work

Musashi

New member
So I've got an NTouch iPod Integration Cable that came with my 2012 RTS A&C. It only says Aux and doesn't always connect and I only have volume control. EVERY TIME I hit a bump, it quits working. I was told this was the cable that came with my trike when it was bought new from dealership (1 prev owner who is a friend). I've asked about this before and read a ton of threads on these forums about this stuff, and just gave up on it. Factory installed equipment should work.

So there's this round 7-pin female in the trunk (right side). I'm supposed to plug this pigtail in there that has a short coax loooking cable to a box the size of 1.5 Zippo lighters and then another cable running out the same end (back whence it came) to an iPod 30 pin connector. It says NTouch on it, and has no other visible markings. I assume this is the alleged "iPod Integration Cable."

I need to know what I can do to reliably run an iPod Nano (gen 6) or have a dependable Bluetooth interface to the speakers on my Spyder that will let me run Amazon Music via my Samsung Galaxy S7. I'm open to either approach, but I am sick and tired of not having anything but radio on my Spyder, but I don't think I should have to spend hundreds of dollars to replace something that is under warranty. My Spyder spent the past 2 weeks in the shop and this was on the list, but the Cert Spyder Tech said, "Yeah, that's a common problem." Then, there was a woman there picking up her F3 Limited when I was picking mine up and her Bluetooth still wasn't working. (West Coast Powersports in Clearwater, FL...btw) Please help! I am looking for a legit solution and exactly how to get it done.
 
Well, this may not be the answer you're looking for, but your description of your adapter cable doesn't match what came with my 2012. See pictures, and they don't say Ntouch anywhere on them. So, that's the first thing that comes to mind. The second is that the harness on my RT runs along the right hand side and has a couple of connectors in it. If you have issues after hitting a bump, I would trace out that harness hand over hand - if you haven't already - and check the whole length for anything worn through or loose. Yes, sorry I can't tell you exactly how to get it done. But my initial thought - based on what cables came with mine - is you have an incorrect adapter cable. Now, maybe BRP had two different suppliers for those things, I don't know. I don't see why an A&C would be any different than a LTD. But, I just thought you should know that your cable doesn't match mine of the same model year and that it could be part of the issue. Good luck with it.
 

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Well, this may not be the answer you're looking for, but your description of your adapter cable doesn't match what came with my 2012. See pictures, and they don't say Ntouch anywhere on them. So, that's the first thing that comes to mind. The second is that the harness on my RT runs along the right hand side and has a couple of connectors in it. If you have issues after hitting a bump, I would trace out that harness hand over hand - if you haven't already - and check the whole length for anything worn through or loose. Yes, sorry I can't tell you exactly how to get it done. But my initial thought - based on what cables came with mine - is you have an incorrect adapter cable. Now, maybe BRP had two different suppliers for those things, I don't know. I don't see why an A&C would be any different than a LTD. But, I just thought you should know that your cable doesn't match mine of the same model year and that it could be part of the issue. Good luck with it.
:agree: cable described is odd I have same as in pics also & work fine except 1 generation iPod nano #4 I think (found iPhone that works & not looked back) check with your dealer about the cable, bumps & loss of sound probably just loose connection apply some Velcro to hold device in place with slack on cable. Other alternative solution is BLUETOOTH LAMONSTER has.
http://www.lamonstergarage.com/bluetooth-receiver-for-rt-f3t-st-br1/
 
:agree: cable described is odd I have same as in pics also & work fine except 1 generation iPod nano #4 I think (found iPhone that works & not looked back) check with your dealer about the cable, bumps & loss of sound probably just loose connection apply some Velcro to hold device in place with slack on cable. Other alternative solution is BLUETOOTH LAMONSTER has.
http://www.lamonstergarage.com/bluetooth-receiver-for-rt-f3t-st-br1/

Actually, gentlemen, your replies are very helpful. Thank you! I suspected that I had the wrong connection cable based on my research, but wasn't sure and I didn't want to start down the rabbit hole of buying $50-75 cables and trying them one after another without getting some feedback from other owners. My trike was in the shop for 2 weeks and a cert Spyder tech went through the whole system and repaired a bunch of electrical stuff. He was emphatic that there are no issues there, and this was specifically on the list. But he did not tell me I had the wrong iPod Integration Cable. There was a bunch of other work done, parts replaced, etc. under my extended warranty. This is the only issue that was not resolved. I'm thinking I'll try either the iPod Integration Cable y'all have or the Bluetooth interface Lamonster offers and see if that fixes it.
 
Your cable sounds like the cable for 2010s and 2011s. I believe the cable was changed for the 2012s. I could be wrong. Bruce
 
According to what I find the cable you have is part # 710002016. All the parts diagrams for all the RTs show it as having been superceded by part # 710002676, which is the one pictured above. The 2012 parts diagram shows part # 710002676 so it looks like your best bet is to buy the new cable, or go BT.
 
The cables shown in post #2 are the cables you are supposed to have with a 2012 Spyder. One is for an mp3 player and the one with the ipod plug on it is for you ipod or iPhone. It should allow you to interface with your radio. There is no Bluetooth for the 2012 unless you buy the adapter from BRP for mega $ or you buy it from motorcycledave.com. Same thing only cheaper and it comes with the cord you need to hook it up to your radio, which BRP wants to charge you extra for.
 
Actually, gentlemen, your replies are very helpful. Thank you! I suspected that I had the wrong connection cable based on my research, but wasn't sure and I didn't want to start down the rabbit hole of buying $50-75 cables and trying them one after another without getting some feedback from other owners. My trike was in the shop for 2 weeks and a cert Spyder tech went through the whole system and repaired a bunch of electrical stuff. He was emphatic that there are no issues there, and this was specifically on the list. But he did not tell me I had the wrong iPod Integration Cable. There was a bunch of other work done, parts replaced, etc. under my extended warranty. This is the only issue that was not resolved. I'm thinking I'll try either the iPod Integration Cable y'all have or the Bluetooth interface Lamonster offers and see if that fixes it.
FYI Lil more research found there was a different cable for 2011,(looks like you described)& prior part #219400187 & for 2014 & prior looks likes the one I have is part#219400346. The 3.5mm headphone cable:710001406 hope this helps maybe you just need updated cable:dontknow:they changed them for some reason:lecturef_smilie:
 
So I've got an NTouch iPod Integration Cable that came with my 2012 RTS A&C. It only says Aux and doesn't always connect and I only have volume control. EVERY TIME I hit a bump, it quits working. I was told this was the cable that came with my trike when it was bought new from dealership (1 prev owner who is a friend). I've asked about this before and read a ton of threads on these forums about this stuff, and just gave up on it. Factory installed equipment should work.

So there's this round 7-pin female in the trunk (right side). I'm supposed to plug this pigtail in there that has a short coax loooking cable to a box the size of 1.5 Zippo lighters and then another cable running out the same end (back whence it came) to an iPod 30 pin connector. It says NTouch on it, and has no other visible markings. I assume this is the alleged "iPod Integration Cable."

I need to know what I can do to reliably run an iPod Nano (gen 6) or have a dependable Bluetooth interface to the speakers on my Spyder that will let me run Amazon Music via my Samsung Galaxy S7. I'm open to either approach, but I am sick and tired of not having anything but radio on my Spyder, but I don't think I should have to spend hundreds of dollars to replace something that is under warranty. My Spyder spent the past 2 weeks in the shop and this was on the list, but the Cert Spyder Tech said, "Yeah, that's a common problem." Then, there was a woman there picking up her F3 Limited when I was picking mine up and her Bluetooth still wasn't working. (West Coast Powersports in Clearwater, FL...btw) Please help! I am looking for a legit solution and exactly how to get it done.


By your own words, you are in for either a full function IPod setup or a BT setup?

In regards to the IPod setup. You have the 30 pin cable. The IPod model that you have, does is utilize the 30 directly into it or must you run a 30 pin to Lightning adapter.

Many Spyders did not like or function properly with aftermarket 30 pin to Lightning adapters. The trend to good operation was the Apple, not a clone or bootleg copy, but a true known Apple adapter.

Your mention of volume only is one of the problems common to a bad Lightning adapter.

Consider too, I am not sure how your IPod is positioned, mounted or secured. The IPod should not dangle by the wire, or strain the wire and connections.

Our IPod, in the 2014 RTS uses the Can Am cable and an Apple brand Lightning adapter. The left grip controls volume, advances or go backs songs, and while finicky, can find tracks.

Our current setup utilizes both the IPod and BT. The IPod functions as before. It serves as the input device to the Spyder. The Sena BT dongle, mounted beside the IPod, acts as a BT transmitter to the helmet mounted Sena 20s units.

Saying that, the Can Am Dongle or Sena Dongle from the aftermarket with a proper Dongle cable will not recieve, simply transmit. If this is incorrect Finless Bob will correct me.

Wanting to BT into the Spyder, yes you would need a BT reciever as others mentioned. Lamont did this on his F3. You might be able to utilize the Can Am MP3 adapter. This plugged into the BT reciever may work to input into the Spyders audio system. Your left grip would only control volume.

Your BT music would transmit from your device, possibly your phone, or the IPod, however you would need to scroll the screen on the device, plus mount the device where it is accessable in order to do more than change volume.

If I had a true complaint about our setup, by default, the Spyder audio system automatically sets and limits our IPod at 50% volume. The Spyder amp or Sena 20s is used to control actual volume. Downside is background noise. If I BT the Ipod without the Spyder directly to the Sena 20s, no background noise since the IPod volume can be increased and headset volume reduced. With the Spyder setting the volume of the IPod at 50%, the headset must have volume increased and often background noise is heard, but not bad.

If the original poster were closer I would offer our cable and adapter as a test. Best bet is to try and borrow a known good setup, different IPod, known good cable and known Apple adapter. See if it works. If so, try your IPod, if that works try your adapter, then try a different cable.

All the best with it.
 
I pulled up the manual on the IPods Nano 6th gen. It utilizes the 30 pin connector. Disregard my above comments about the Lighning adapter.

The best question is, has anyone else used this IPod model and same generation on a Spyder with good results?

Somehow I thought, while researching the IPod for our Spyder, the Nano Gen 6 was known to have issues. Saying that, it has been a while since I did that research and I could be wrong.
 
Yes. I found the same. I ordered the iPod Integration Cable recommended by the mfg yesterday (same as the ones pictured above). I've got velcro and some extra small pouches. The device didn't dangle, because I have BRP Spyder luggage that a friend gave me when he sold his Spyder. But I did have it sitting on the luggage insert in the rear trunk. So it could "bounce" a bit over bumps. I'll install the new IIC and secure to the trunk in an enclosed pouch. This model iPod Nano has a touch screen, but it can be shut down using the top right button (same as power switch, but different actuation sequence). I always kept the screen locked once I got a playlist selected and running. But making it all secure and enclosed will be an obvious improvement. I knew that wasn't the only issue, because the system failed to sync more often than not and it took multiple tries just to get music through Aux. I've only seen iPod on the display once in over 2 years. So I never addressed the "loose installation." If it doesn't work right sitting still in the garage, it sure won't work right running down the road. So why bother?

When this thing comes, I'll hook it up and make sure it's fully functional and reliable in the garage. Then I'll secure and protect it in the trunk if all goes well.

I decided against the BT approach. I just want MY choice of music.

Thanks again...to everyone...for the help and advice. I'll post a follow-up.
 
Yes. I found the same. I ordered the iPod Integration Cable recommended by the mfg yesterday (same as the ones pictured above). I've got velcro and some extra small pouches. The device didn't dangle, because I have BRP Spyder luggage that a friend gave me when he sold his Spyder. But I did have it sitting on the luggage insert in the rear trunk. So it could "bounce" a bit over bumps. I'll install the new IIC and secure to the trunk in an enclosed pouch. This model iPod Nano has a touch screen, but it can be shut down using the top right button (same as power switch, but different actuation sequence). I always kept the screen locked once I got a playlist selected and running. But making it all secure and enclosed will be an obvious improvement. I knew that wasn't the only issue, because the system failed to sync more often than not and it took multiple tries just to get music through Aux. I've only seen iPod on the display once in over 2 years. So I never addressed the "loose installation." If it doesn't work right sitting still in the garage, it sure won't work right running down the road. So why bother?

When this thing comes, I'll hook it up and make sure it's fully functional and reliable in the garage. Then I'll secure and protect it in the trunk if all goes well.

I decided against the BT approach. I just want MY choice of music.

Thanks again...to everyone...for the help and advice. I'll post a follow-up.

If you ever want to spend an afternoon in West Palm, head down and borrow our cable and Ipod. You may not like my music, but you can see if it works better.
 
Hey! A week ahead of schedule, the iPod Integration Cable arrived in today's mail. I took it to the Spyder, plugged it in, and SHAZAM! the whole thing works exactly like it is supposed to. :ohyea: I even stood on the rear floorboards and bounced up and down a dozen times with it playing, used turn signals and high beams, blew the horn, etc. and went through the menus and checked functionality. Perfect! :2thumbs: Thanks, fellas!
 
Hey! A week ahead of schedule, the iPod Integration Cable arrived in today's mail. I took it to the Spyder, plugged it in, and SHAZAM! the whole thing works exactly like it is supposed to. :ohyea: I even stood on the rear floorboards and bounced up and down a dozen times with it playing, used turn signals and high beams, blew the horn, etc. and went through the menus and checked functionality. Perfect! :2thumbs: Thanks, fellas!
That's great! Always good to hear about successful solutions for a problem!
 
Hey! A week ahead of schedule, the iPod Integration Cable arrived in today's mail. I took it to the Spyder, plugged it in, and SHAZAM! the whole thing works exactly like it is supposed to. :ohyea: I even stood on the rear floorboards and bounced up and down a dozen times with it playing, used turn signals and high beams, blew the horn, etc. and went through the menus and checked functionality. Perfect! :2thumbs: Thanks, fellas!

Just to clarify, you replaced the previous round 7 pin to Apple 30 pin cable with a new one? Were they the same part number? If I am incorrect, can you explain more what you got that worked to fix it.
 
I replaced the 2011 and earlier one (7 pin to box to 30 pin iPod) NTouch with the OEM 7 pin to 30 pin (current) version. Apparently, the newer cable came out in mid-2012 and some 2012 RTs shipped with the old (and unreliable) one. The later production units shipped with the current version and an Aux (7 pin to 3.5mm audio) cable. I bought mine from a friend who was meticulous in 2016, but the iPod cable was never updated. He probably never used it. The old cable's part # isn't even available anywhere I've found. Might be in the owner's manual. FYI, I bought it from Amazon for about $10 less than the next best price and more than $25 less than direct from Can Am with free shipping; and it arrived in less than 2 days.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B015EEXY4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
I mention both part numbers in a post above. Or is it in the other thread?

Yes, you did list both part #s, but as you explained it has been superceded. So it doesn't even show up in searches for available parts. The one that replaced it is now recommended for ALL Spyders 2014 and before (if I recall correctly).
 
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