PCV with auto tune is an option. Have used on other bikes and it works great. I just haven't sprung the $$$ for the Spyder system yet . . . . ,
Get the Power Commander V with auto-tune. You can do the single tune and just install the auto-tune bung to the Y pipe near the OEM oxygen sensor. If you go with the dual auto-tune sensor you'll have to pull the header pipes and install a bung for each cylinder... each one about 8" from the engine.
I did the single version and it works GREAT. You can adjust as needed... make and share custom maps... or let the auto-tune do the work for you.
You can also take it to a place that does Dyno testing and they can dyno it and build a custom map for you... obviously the most accurate way to do it... but some may not know how to dyno a Spyder.
PCV with auto-tune is far superior technology to anything Juice Box sells (power commander makes those units also--- it's their older technology....they keep the newest technology for their own product line)
You can do the PCV with single auto tune for $500. Dual auto tune for $600.
Did you weld the bung right beside the stock bung or opposite of it on the Y? Is there enough room on the Y to go right beside it?
Also where did you buy your PCV from?
Plenty of room to weld the new bunghole near the OEM one.
PM sent on where I got mine.. don't wanna plug a business out here......
Is everyone running their PVC/autotune so rich? What do your plugs look like?I have the PCV with auto tune. Love it. Its taken about 1000 miles of excepting trims and down loading to build a great map. But I am running a none spyder exoust and with no cat, "RT". I can get 150 miles on a tank of gas running it 13.2% across the board on fuel tables and can bust the tire lose in 2end gear. major improvement in the performance department
PCV :thumbup:
Is everyone running their PVC/autotune so rich? What do your plugs look like?
I was running 13.6ish across the open loop part of the map and it was good... but when I went to 14.0 tapering to 14.4 towards the higher end it made a notable difference at the top end.
I might wind up taking more than 1000 miles to "get it right" but it "feels good" right now![]()
Good question. Cause I would like to know where to put mine. I was gonna set it at 13.0, but it looks like that may be too rich???
13.0 is gonna be too rich IMO. I went with a stock table for running a 'green filter' and a TB pipe and then just let it adjust from there. I'll have to pull my tables up... but I think the target AFR was generally in the 13.2 to 13.6 range in their stock table. I have not changed those... those are real world targets. The Auto-tune will adjust the trim to try and hit those targets.
Generally speaking you'd rather be too rich than too lean as too lean.... but I'm not sure these can allow you to lean things out to the point of damage... highly doubt you can.
On my AFR gauge I can see it vary quite a bit.. depends on how I'm riding, etc.... but it has settled down more as I apply new auto-tune data... and the AFR readings are FAR more stable compared to how they read when I was running JB with o2 mod.
When I get things dialed in better.. I'll end up with two maps--- one for performance riding and one for long trips. You can hook a simple switch to the PC V that will allow you to simply switch between the two maps... the one in the PC V and the one in the Auto-Tune.
Thanks. Great info. I'll be tuning tomorrow, so I'm looking forward to getting this spyder smoother. One question......do you just leave everything hooked up from ride to ride, never touching anything, and simply just accept the new trims after every ride? I'm assuming you never take the autotune o2 sensor out of the pipe?