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Anyone mounted Denali Lights to a 2020+ RT?
- Thread starter ff73148
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Flamewinger
New member
I mounted their Spotlights to the A arms and powered them with a Neutrino Black box fuse block.
I got another light rocker switch and used it to control them.
This is my F3 and they’re mounted the same.
I got another light rocker switch and used it to control them.
This is my F3 and they’re mounted the same.
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RayBJ
Well-known member
I took power from my fuse box (switched 12v) and added a switch in the spare switch slot on the 'tank'. My chin light is on the same circuit.
Peteoz
Well-known member
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ff73148
Member
I don't want to add a switch. Were did you attach the trigger wire?
Peteoz
Well-known member
Just make sure that is legal, ff. Out here in Aus, they will only allow additional driving/spot lights to run off your high beam circuit, and they MUST have a switch, or they will reject the vehicle during roadworthy tests.
Pete
ff73148
Member
No problem here in the USA. You have to see some of the light bars that people mount on their trucks.
troop
Well-known member
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Flamewinger
New member
The Neutrino Black box has a circuit that allows one accessory to shut on/off another. So I have a wire from when the fog lights connected to this circuit and when it’s hot the power to the Denalis gets turned off.
In the U.S. we’re only allowed 4 headlights on at one time. (Although law enforcement is questionable)
RayBJ
Well-known member
No 'trigger wire'. I use a fuse box with 6 12v circuits that can be set for 'key-on' or 'always on'. I connected my switch to a 'key-on' circuit. LEDs can be run as daylight DRLs and/or nighttime added vision.
ff73148
Member
RayBJ, I have the Lamonster GPS Plug N Play harness on my 2022 RT Limited. It's a splitter that gives me three positive & negative circuits to run lights and a GPS. It plugs into the factory harness. When I spoke with Denali they told me that in order to make the lights work the trigger wire needs 12V?
K80Shooter
New member
What is the purpose of the trigger wire?
If you only want 12 volts when the switch is on, then use the GPS wire.
If you only want 12 volts when the switch is on, then use the GPS wire.
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RayBJ
Well-known member
The 'trigger wire' they refer to is whatever tells the lights to turn on (deliver 12v). That would be the case if you use a relay to isolate the power to the lights from the CanAm harness (direct to battery with a 'trigger' from the switch you use.) If you run a wire from Lamont's box direct to a switch and on to the lights, you don't use a 'trigger' because the switch is the trigger and power.
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campermac
Member
you could save yourself a lot of time and aggravation and install the LED light bar from Slingmods or who ever else may have it at a better price. https://www.slingmods.com/canam-spyder-rt-led-driving-light-bar-kit
I installed it in less than an hour and put the switch that comes with it in the blank spot on the control panel where the other switches are located. The switch they provide is an exact equal to the switches from Can Am but the color is not the same, so I went to OTTRAW and contacted them for an exact match replacement. https://www.otrattw.net/
OH and the light bar is seriously bright.
I installed it in less than an hour and put the switch that comes with it in the blank spot on the control panel where the other switches are located. The switch they provide is an exact equal to the switches from Can Am but the color is not the same, so I went to OTTRAW and contacted them for an exact match replacement. https://www.otrattw.net/
OH and the light bar is seriously bright.
I have Denali lights on my Honda NC750X and the trigger wire there is used to coordinate turning the driving lights on with the high beam switch and off when the low beams are used. The trigger circuit is looking for voltage change. Unfortunately, the Denali circuit I have works well with pre-LED lights, but with the LEDs the voltage change is not enough to trigger the circuit, so I use a switch. Using a separate relay block is the work around.
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