Any Tips for removing clutch oil drain plug before hot oil shoots out?

[Two2Three]

This really seems like a silly question, but even after changing my 2022 RT oil three times now, I have yet to find a way to get the clutch (left side) drain plug out fast enough that I don't get flooded with searing hot oil. Maybe I do too good a job getting the bike up to operating temp? Even with two pairs of neoprene gloves on my hand, it is freaking HOT. :yikes:

It takes so many turns to get that plug out that it is just painful. And the oil gushes out of that drain like a firehose. I'm amazed at how fast it pours out. The drain on the other side is no problem - it just starts to ooze, and the plug is out of the way, and then it drains normally.

Is there some trick I'm missing to be able to unscrew it with a minimal amount of blazing hot oil pouring down? :dontknow:

 

[Bfromla]

Sorry not familiar with enough; is there room for an extension? & just a screen on the catch bucket & let the plug fall. :dontknow: opcorn:

 

[Two2Three]

Yeah I end up just letting it pour around the plug until the oil subsides, and then take it out the rest of the way. But it would sure be nice to just remove it to begin with.

 

[TheMariner]

Howdy,

Maybe I do too good a job getting the bike up to operating temp?

I think you are. There's no need to get the oil up to operating temperature as if you are checking the oil level, you only need to warm it to help it drain. 5-10 minutes idling should be plenty.

 

[Gwolf]

The trick you are missing is wearing neoprene glove on the hand you are removing the plug with, and just let the plug fall in the drain pan.

Then later, after the oil is all drained out, get your little magnet on a stick and fish the plug out of the drain pan.

 

[Two2Three]

As I mentioned, I have two pairs of neoprene gloves on and it is still scalding hot. .

 

[Mikey]

I would say, do not over think this job and for safety's sake, don't let the motor warm up as much as much as you're doing. With today's oils, bringing it up to luke warm would get the job done just right.

 

[PMK]

My opinion varies from that of others. Always best with a shared gearbox design to have the oil completely cycled beyond just the engine. Ideally you rode the machine prior to draining. Doing so circulates oil across the gears, shafts, and especially the wet clutch. Honestly, the engine itself could care less.

As for protecting your hand from hot oil, consider shopping for heat resistant gloves for mechanics. Put the heat resistant glove on first, then place the nitrile gloves over the mechanics glove.

Also, have ready nearby, a dry rag to immediately wipe the oil of the nitrile outer glove.

Not sure that is the answer you desire, but very common how we do it working on hot aircraft engines.

 

[Two2Three]

That actually makes sense. I didn’t think about a specific heat resistant glove. The owners manual says to ride 9 miles to get it to operating temp, which is what I did. I’ll poke around for some gloves like that. Thanks. ��

 

[BajaRon]

I'd say you're doing a good job. Having the oil rush out is the best way to flush contaminants. I guess we've gotten to where we are just quick as far as the heat issue goes. We get the customers bikes up to operating temperature either by putting them on the lift as soon as they arrive, or riding about 10 miles before draining the oil if the bike has been sitting. As mentioned by PMK, driving the bike stirs everything that has settled out into the bottom of the case and suspends it in the oil. Without this, the settled out contaminants simply lay there waiting to contaminate the new oil.

 

[JayBros]

I have yet to find a way to get the clutch (left side) drain plug out fast enough that I don't get flooded with searing hot oil...
It takes so many turns to get that plug out that it is just painful. And the oil gushes out of that drain like a firehose. I'm amazed at how fast it pours out... The drain on the other side is no problem - it just starts to ooze, and the plug is out of the way, and then it drains normally.

Is there some trick I'm missing to be able to unscrew it with a minimal amount of blazing hot oil pouring down? :dontknow:

Please, let's get a couple of things straightened out.

First, you say the the clutch (left side) plug is on the left side. The clutch cover drain plug is on the right side because, by convention, the left and right sides of the Spyder, just like in a cage refer to the sides as the operator is sitting in/on the vehicle. The plug on the left side of your Spyder is the crankcase plug.

Second, you say it takes so many turns to get the plug out it is painful because the hot oil is running down your gloved hand. That is a tip off that you are in fact removing the crankcase plug and it takes so many turns because it is a long threaded plug and the double O-rings on the plug drag on the crankcase plug hole so one can't get as many fast turns on the plug as can be gotten on the clutch cover plug that has only a single copper washer and a much shorter plug thread.

Those who have said it is better to get the engine oil filly up to operating temperature before draining the oil are absolutely correct. It is much better to have all contaminants fully in suspension in hot oil to get more of them out of the engine with the hot oil than to have them settled in the nooks and crannies of a cold engine and waiting to contaminate fresh oil.

If you first remove the crankcase plug you will, yes, get that hot, gushing oil, the majority of the engine capacity, out first. If you then remove the clutch cover plug you will hear/see much less oil flow out. While the oil is draining out of those to holes you can remove the necessary Tupperware to get to the oil filter cannister. Then, when you break the seal on the cannister cap you will hear additional oil, a small amount drain out of the clutch cover drain hole.

 

[Two2Three]

First, you say the the clutch (left side) plug is on the left side. The clutch cover drain plug is on the right side because, by convention, the left and right sides of the Spyder, just like in a cage refer to the sides as the operator is sitting in/on the vehicle. The plug on the left side of your Spyder is the crankcase plug.

Oh, oops. Yeah got the names wrong then. But the left/right side descriptions are correct. The left side as sitting on the bike is the second one I remove, as you said with the double O rings and more length, which I can't get out fast enough. Better gloves is probably the ticket.

 

[spyderdave]

Personally, I think you're asking to get burned. The engine does not have to be screaming hot to change the oil, just run for a couple of minutes to warm it. The oil is 5 or 10W and is thin anyway, the amount of "depleted" oil remaining vs the new is insignificant, and good filters & magnetic plugs get (virtually) all the contaminants. Save your hands!

 

[svspyder]

I first switched to plugs that can be removed with a socket so I don't have to fumble around getting a tool in them. I also use this https://www.harborfreight.com/waste-oil-storage-container-97608.html and fashioned a screen to fit over the drain hole. I break loose the plug with a ratchet then switch the socket to a flexible extension hex bit holder with the socket on one end and the other into my powered driver which I am holding well clear of the plug. In about 2 seconds the powered driver gets the plug out which falls onto the screen covering the oil catcher drain. Generally I get no oil on my hands. The oil drains mostly straight down although I do stuff some shop towels into the openings surrounding the drain plug just in case.

 

[Wmoater]

I’ve never had the problem but I have a big green egg that I make pizza and smash burgers at 650 degrees over open flame. I use a pretty thin set of BBQ heat gloves that can protect up to 1000 degrees. They are pretty thin, like cotton glove liners. Just slide either dishwasher gloves over or any other rubber glove over and you won’t feel a thing. Buy one size larger glove if needed. There’s all kinds of YouTube videos of guys reaching into smokers and separating for example of pork butt in smokers at 500 degrees plus using this technique.

 

[Mikey]

:roflblack: Sometimes you just have to laugh at the way we get things done! I have pictures in my head of going out to the shop and tearing the skirt off my bike, gloving up two pairs of gloves up to my elbows, apron, eye protection, like you're going into surgery on a brain!:roflblack: Oh my god!! To each his own!!

 

[Wmoater]

Mikey I’m not saying I do wear the BBQ gloves for changing oil, just a recommendation for two2three so he doesn’t burn his hands. I just wear a pair of disposable gloves changing oil. I do wear those BBQ gloves with the green egg though! You smash those burgers at 600 degrees and the grease oozes into the flame and Poof no arm hair! As you described your vision, Yes that would be funny and I am laughing with the changing of oil comment though!

 

[troop]

"Gushes" is correct. I quit using a low profile drain pan for this reason.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I've refrained from commenting on this subject until now ...... IMHO the oil doesn't have to be that HOT !!!!! .... After the oil gets to operating temperature, once it stops circulating all the particulate matter will settle to the bottom (where the oil plugs are) .... so plan to change the oil after a ride .... wait an hour and pull the plugs ... let it drain overnight .... all will be fine ....Mike :thumbup:

 

[cptjam]

Cotton work gloves with nitrile gloves over that. No burn! I also use a milk jug, with the bottom cut off as a giant funnel. The gush and splatter is contained, hot oil goes where you want, and the floor stays tidy.