• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Any recommendations for upgraded battery with more CCA’s?

My OE battery in my 21 RTL crapped out. It came with the YUASA YTX24HL that list 350 CCA. Is anyone aware of a good battery that has more cold cranking amps than the OE battery? Not really wanting to switch to lithium ion at this time.

PS - Background: Went on a 5 day trip and put on just over 2,500 miles. Many many stops and starts on the trip and it started just fine every time with no hint of issues. When I got home I washed it and parked it in the garage for 2 weeks without starting it and I did not have it on a maintainer during this time. Yesterday was going to go for a ride and it was completely dead, not even any clicking and dash didn’t light up. Jump started it with a battery pack (NOCO 12V 1500A). Started and idled fine, but would not go into gear and would not rev. Also had a yellow (!) at the bottom of the instrument cluster. I checked the fuses and all are ok. Took battery to local parts store and they said only 2 volts and no charge and this is after being on the trickle charger overnight.
1. Does all the above sound like just a bad battery?
2. Is it weird that it was perfect on my trip and went completely bad in only two weeks of sitting?
 
Something sucked the power out of your battery! Check the that brake light switch that is on recall when you get a battery back in it! Just My Opinion...:thumbup:...Bill
 
I agree. I have seen Spyders with the brake lts stuck on after bike is shut off. Not only on the new Spyders, but on earlier years also.
 
Last edited:
:chat:....Something is wrong with the electronics on your Spyder. Yes, it truly could be the brake light switch. If you didn't notice that the light was still on after your Ryde Time.

More likely you added something electrical to your Spyder.
If this is true, check out this added item.
If this is false, then something else is a little bit of a problem.
Depending on your Electrical experience and ability, this type of check can be a tuff dog to figure out.

For me I would find a Spyder Dealer Technician and see what they can do for you.
Maybe someone else will check in on this problem.
First let us know if your Brake light is still on.

Than we will go from there. ....:thumbup:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks for the replies. Could be the brake light switch since the recall hasn’t been done yet, but I walk past the bike in my garage multiple times per day and never noticed the brake lights being on.
I haven’t added any electronics to the bike, it is stock in that regard. I do have an SAE battery tender lead that has been on there since nearly new. Checked it along its length and no shorts and the inline fuse is fine too.
Guess I’ll put in a new battery and see what it does. If the instrument cluster lights up I’ll check for fault codes. Otherwise I’ll probably have to take it to the dealer.
Good thing i purchased the BEST warranty since the original warranty ended about a month ago!
 
A long trip---------- Vibration kills regular batteries. Maybe check the hold down strap???

Lew L
 
Sometimes that's just how they go. If you didn't have anything on, or a charging cord shorted to ground, I would say your battery just had enough and decided to die on you!
 
Not having much luck finding a replacement battery today since it is Monday and most shops are closed. Will try to find one tomorrow. I did find one Yusaa but it is the bottle supplied type and I think I'd prefer one sealed from the factory. Any opinions on that?
 
Not having much luck finding a replacement battery today since it is Monday and most shops are closed. Will try to find one tomorrow. I did find one Yusaa but it is the bottle supplied type and I think I'd prefer one sealed from the factory. Any opinions on that?

There fine, just make sure you give them a good charge before you install it!
 
I have great luck with Deka batteries...Their cable attaching system is superior to Yusa's and most others...NAPA powersport batteries are rebranded Deka's...larryd
 
Recommended LiPO4 batteries have greater cranking power. Search 'lithium batteries'
I’m not fully convinced I want to go that route. Had one on my race bike a few years back and nearly missed the start because the LiPo battery wouldn’t hardly crank it over in the 30* temps. I did like how the battery never lost its charge even when sitting for extended periods without ever being on a charger.
 
I got a Motobat from him three or four years ago, it;s still going strong!!:2thumbs:

Checked their site and they aren’t showing the motobat brand but they have Drag Specialties with exact specs as the OE Yuasa. I’ll call them before I order from them.
 
Back
Top