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Any Mechanics in Southwest Florida who will work on a 2013 RT?
- Thread starter Sonrisa
- Start date
DickB
Active member
I contacted George, the OP, to see what needed servicing. He said that he was getting a brake failure message and the pedal was mushy, despite his having bled the brakes (without BUDS) three times. I offered to bring BUDS and take a look, and took a nice drive down to his place yesterday.
We connected BUDS and noted no brake-related stored codes. We bled the system using BUDS and the full procedure in the service manual. We did see some bubbles escape. However the pressure test failed. To conduct the test you press the brake pedal slowly until the Low Pressure switch illuminates, then note the Brake Pressure Sensor reading. It should be 508 psi or more. The pressure was much lower. Also, once the Low Pressure switch lights, the pedal continues to slowly move down until it reaches the stop. Subsequent pedal presses are firm with pressure exceeding 508 psi. But after 30 seconds the pressure test fails. I'm quite certain that this will trigger a brake fault.
The only remedy for low pressure in the Service Manual is to bleed the system again.
I don't believe that there is any air in the system. I suspect a faulty master cylinder, with fluid leaking past the piston. Thoughts?
We connected BUDS and noted no brake-related stored codes. We bled the system using BUDS and the full procedure in the service manual. We did see some bubbles escape. However the pressure test failed. To conduct the test you press the brake pedal slowly until the Low Pressure switch illuminates, then note the Brake Pressure Sensor reading. It should be 508 psi or more. The pressure was much lower. Also, once the Low Pressure switch lights, the pedal continues to slowly move down until it reaches the stop. Subsequent pedal presses are firm with pressure exceeding 508 psi. But after 30 seconds the pressure test fails. I'm quite certain that this will trigger a brake fault.
The only remedy for low pressure in the Service Manual is to bleed the system again.
I don't believe that there is any air in the system. I suspect a faulty master cylinder, with fluid leaking past the piston. Thoughts?
DickB
Active member
Follow up information which may be helpful to others.
George and a friend replaced the master cylinder and bled the brakes without BUDS. The brakes were working for a while, but he got a brake failure message after about 100 miles.
George called me and I visited yesterday and brought BUDS along. The brake pedal symptoms were as before - the pedal had a fair bit of play and would eventually bottom out. We checked for fault codes with BUDS, and there were several as you can see. We also checked brake pressure. The procedure is to press the brake pedal until the Low Pressure switch lights on BUDS, then note the pressure (see screen shot in my earlier post). Spec is just over 500 PSI; his was about 200. We proceeded to bleed the brakes using the BUDS procedure. This involves activating the BUDS bleeding operation, opening the bleeder, then pressing the brake pedal slowly over 3 seconds and repeating until BUDS indicates procedure complete. Then closing the bleeder and releasing brake pedal pressure. This on all wheels and the VCM in succession. The VCM could be heard being activated during all but the left front bleeding. We tested pressure and it was over 900 PSI. We started the motor and pressed the brake pedal several times with no faults. George and a friend put the front wheels on and he took a short test drive with no faults. Because the brakes seemed to be OK after changing the master cylinder but soon failed, we remain a bit sceptical that the problem is indeed solved, but fingers crossed. George plans on taking a more extended drive later this week (It's ****** cold here right now). He will follow up with me.
George and a friend replaced the master cylinder and bled the brakes without BUDS. The brakes were working for a while, but he got a brake failure message after about 100 miles.
George called me and I visited yesterday and brought BUDS along. The brake pedal symptoms were as before - the pedal had a fair bit of play and would eventually bottom out. We checked for fault codes with BUDS, and there were several as you can see. We also checked brake pressure. The procedure is to press the brake pedal until the Low Pressure switch lights on BUDS, then note the pressure (see screen shot in my earlier post). Spec is just over 500 PSI; his was about 200. We proceeded to bleed the brakes using the BUDS procedure. This involves activating the BUDS bleeding operation, opening the bleeder, then pressing the brake pedal slowly over 3 seconds and repeating until BUDS indicates procedure complete. Then closing the bleeder and releasing brake pedal pressure. This on all wheels and the VCM in succession. The VCM could be heard being activated during all but the left front bleeding. We tested pressure and it was over 900 PSI. We started the motor and pressed the brake pedal several times with no faults. George and a friend put the front wheels on and he took a short test drive with no faults. Because the brakes seemed to be OK after changing the master cylinder but soon failed, we remain a bit sceptical that the problem is indeed solved, but fingers crossed. George plans on taking a more extended drive later this week (It's ****** cold here right now). He will follow up with me.
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