Any Ideas. Spyder will NOT start

[Arthur---Mexico]

Automatic little battery chargers.

Murphy,
Those little automatic battery chargers take more time than one hour to charger a low battery. Leave the charger connected for 24 hours at least or put a bigger automatic charger on your battery. I have both the 10 amp kind and the smaller "float" kind. Those automatic float chargers put out only ½ to 1½ amps and that's not very much juice. They are float chargers and meant to keep your battery charged when your bike or car is not used for a long period of time. The automatic part keeps the battery from being over charged. It's an automatic operation and neccessary. I keep all my vehicles connected to one of those automatic float chargers. I know my batteries are charged and my cars or motorcycles will start.

You wrote: My battery barely registered 8 volts on the voltmeter. I have had it connected to a Battery Tender for 1 hour.

 

[murphybrown]

Dang...a new issue....

OK...Ms. Spyder started just fine. Voltmeter at 12.7 - starts fine. BUT no digital display. Analog working...is there some button that I am not pushing...did notice when "dusting" under my raised seat there is a thin black tube like "thing" (above where my tools kit is-underside of seat) that appears cut in two....
Actually I am sitting here laughing...I now own a hammer, $9 multiple tool kit, electrician and duct tape + yesterday I added a Voltmeter & Battery Tender...wow who would have thunk that by acquiring a Spyder that was on my bucket list I would end up with a garage full of tools and me a mechanic...go figure :yikes:.
OK..I digress...back to blank digital display...any ideas???? Thank you.Thank you...you are invaluable to ME..:2thumbs:. I keep asking my old dog for answers and she just wiggles all over and brings her tennis ball for me to throw...go figure!!!!! Have a great day.

 

[spydercarl]

O ring

Can't help too much on the blank display, maybe a loose relay/fuse, but I think the O ring you are talking about is the one used to hold down the toolkit under the seat. My spyder cut mine in half too. I just left it out, not really anywhere for the tools to go when the seat is down that I can see.

 

[NancysToy]

OK...Ms. Spyder started just fine. Voltmeter at 12.7 - starts fine. BUT no digital display. Analog working...is there some button that I am not pushing...did notice when "dusting" under my raised seat there is a thin black tube like "thing" (above where my tools kit is-underside of seat) that appears cut in two....
Actually I am sitting here laughing...I now own a hammer, $9 multiple tool kit, electrician and duct tape + yesterday I added a Voltmeter & Battery Tender...wow who would have thunk that by acquiring a Spyder that was on my bucket list I would end up with a garage full of tools and me a mechanic...go figure :yikes:.
OK..I digress...back to blank digital display...any ideas???? Thank you.Thank you...you are invaluable to ME..:2thumbs:. I keep asking my old dog for answers and she just wiggles all over and brings her tennis ball for me to throw...go figure!!!!! Have a great day.

Probably a failed display. You are going to have to make that trip to the dealer. You might try calling them and negotiating that they order the new cluster up front. Some will...some won't. Have them order the O-ring (bungee) for the toolkit while they are at it. (Mine broke, too.) It normally holds the toolkit to the underside of the seat.

 

[murphybrown]

Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.

OK..waiting for 9 o'clock...will call dealer and see if he will order me in a new display cluster...I have a scheduled appt. for 8/6 to get the clutch recall "fix", new foglites and some other MINOR warranty issues taken care of...hopefully he will be willing to order ahead..understanding that I have a 3.5 hr. ride to get to him...and then at least 5 hrs. back home (gotta take a couple side trips you know :clap!!! Will keep you posted...guess I'll go for ryde now while I wait for 9 a.m....and see if she will hold the battery charge from yesterday. :2thumbs:

 

[murphybrown]

In CAPITAL Letters

Just called servicing dealer and he is very clear that he does not order ANY parts in without diagnosing problem first...unless it is a recall from BRP...so I am going to go check fuses and see if just maybe that is the issue with the digital display...wahoo...gees next thing I will have grease under my fingernails and then I will qualify as a REAL mechanic!!!!

 

[dol]

hello
here in europe they have also this problem
brp know about it and it is an officel problem `the people have got a letter that they have to go to the dealer


vandaag brief gekregen betreffende een terugroeping van bepaalde modellen RS SE5 en RT SE5 2010

potentiele probleem:

wanneer u een voertuig dat is uitgerust met SE5 volledig tot stilstand brengt ,kan de koppeling ingeschakeld
blijven zodat de motor stilvalt.Zodra de motor is stilgevallen kunt u mogelijk niet opnieuw starten en kan het
achterwiel geblokkeerd zijn.Het kan in die situatie praktisch onmogelijk zijn om het voertuig van de rijweg te duwen.

reparatie:

nieuwe onderdelen in centrifugale koppelingsconstructie== new parts

gr dol

 

[murphybrown]

On going Saga

OK...my fuses are all good...dang there are alot of them...almost as bad as my house breakers!!!!
Is there some kind of "tool" for pulling those out with?...a ended up using a pair of needle nose pliers...
Also noticed that when I started Ms. Spyder that there is light on the digital display - so does that mean that power is going to it? Guess it doesn't matter...I will drive her with analog until get to dealer on the 6th...thanks for all your help. Ms. Spyder definitely has an "issue"...but hopefully she will be a happy camper until I get her to dealership....croaking between here and Spokane in the middle of nowhere go be less than a positive time!!!!
Happy Spyder Ryding....

 

[NancysToy]

There should be a puller and spare fuses in the lid?

 

[widowmaker2011]

hello
here in europe they have also this problem
brp know about it and it is an officel problem `the people have got a letter that they have to go to the dealer


vandaag brief gekregen betreffende een terugroeping van bepaalde modellen RS SE5 en RT SE5 2010

potentiele probleem:

wanneer u een voertuig dat is uitgerust met SE5 volledig tot stilstand brengt ,kan de koppeling ingeschakeld
blijven zodat de motor stilvalt.Zodra de motor is stilgevallen kunt u mogelijk niet opnieuw starten en kan het
achterwiel geblokkeerd zijn.Het kan in die situatie praktisch onmogelijk zijn om het voertuig van de rijweg te duwen.

reparatie:

nieuwe onderdelen in centrifugale koppelingsconstructie== new parts

gr dol

not the same problem: Did my best at translation.

concerning a vocation of certain models R today letter got SE5 and RT SE5 2010 potentiele problem: when you a vehicle that has equipped with SE5 to standstill brings entirely, the link can remain integrated so that the engine comes to a stop. As soon as the engine has come to a stop again can you possibly start and can the rear wheel not blocked be. It can be in that situation practically impossible push the vehicle of the roadway. repairing: new components in centrifugale clutch

 

[murphybrown]

There should be a puller and spare fuses in the lid?

Hmmmm found the spare fuses..maybe I don't know what the "puller" looks like as I didnt see anything other than the spare fuses....but I almost needed a course in how to get the covers off of the fuses....but FINALLY got it off and didn't even break it...wahoo!!!!!!:2thumbs:

 

[NancysToy]

Hmmmm found the spare fuses..maybe I don't know what the "puller" looks like as I didnt see anything other than the spare fuses....but I almost needed a course in how to get the covers off of the fuses....but FINALLY got it off and didn't even break it...wahoo!!!!!!:2thumbs:

A fuse puller is just a little H-shaped piece of plastic. If it is the same color as the case, it could look like part of the lid. They usually put them in a slot, sideways, so there is only about 1/4" showing. To be honest, I only looked in my fusebox lid once, so I'm not sure there is a puller, but it seems like I discovered on on the RS.....after I had used the needle-nosed pliers.

 

[SpyderFun]

....next thing I will have grease under my fingernails and then I will qualify as a REAL mechanic!!!!

Sorry you are not a real mechanic until you break out AND use the hammer on it while proving to everyone around you how much of a colorful speaker you are! hyea:

Seriously though, glad it worked out for you and :agree: with the Professor and will add that you may also have a dead battery cell or a charging system issue.

So leave your battery tender on for a minimum of 24 hours (battery tender will shut off or go into "trickle charge" mode when the battery is near a full charge). Then using your volt meter take a direct reading. Start your bike and turn EVERYTHING on and take another direct reading to see what if any voltage drop you have (you may have to increase the throttle a bit due to BRP using a magneto). Go for a nice long, yet close to home, ride (everything "on") and take yet another direct reading (engine "off"). The difference in voltages, of any, will give you a general idea of what may be the problem (ie poor battery or a charging system issue or heck, both).

Hope this helps!

 

[SilverSurfer]

Did you ever get this resolved?

This simply sounds like you've got it in first, and the SE5 will not start if the bike is in gear.

The remedy is simple.

1. Turn on ignition and when prompted, press Mode button. You will see your display as normal, showing Spyder in 1st Gear.

2. Press down firmly on brake pedal.

3. With brake pedal pressed firmly, crank the bike. The bike will start and may either 'fall' into Neutral, or you may then trigger-shift the bike back into Neutral.

Always be sure to set the parking brake and put the transmission in Neutral when parking an SE5. For many, including car drivers and some motorcyclists, leaving a vehicle in Neutral with a parking brake is an un-natural act. However, it is the Spyder truth.

 

[murphybrown]

This simply sounds like you've got it in first, and the SE5 will not start if the bike is in gear.

The remedy is simple.

1. Turn on ignition and when prompted, press Mode button. You will see your display as normal, showing Spyder in 1st Gear.

2. Press down firmly on break pedal.

3. With break pedal pressed firmly, crank the bike. The bike will start and may either 'fall' into Neutral, or you may then trigger-shift the bike back into Neutral.

Always be sure to set the parking brake and put the transmission in Neutral when parking an SE5. For many, including car drivers and some motorcyclists, leaving a vehicle in Neutral with a parking brake is an un-natural act. However, it is the Spyder truth.

Thanks for the follow-up...unfortunately I have a battery issue....as long as I leave on Battery Tender when not driving..it will start...there is no digital readout...but analog works...have appt. with dealership this Friday so will see what is said about losing charge and blank screen - there is power to the screen because you can see light ... checked all my fuses...all good....I will post here what I find out from dealership on Fri. I am totally dependent on their knowledge as my mechanical skills are beyond limited BUT have been greatly expanded because of this issue/challenge..I now can say I own & can operate a voltmeter; battery tender; fuse puller...adding hammer as suggested by earlier poster...and practicing my sailor language for use with hammer!!!!:2thumbs:

 

[canam9]

not the same problem: Did my best at translation.

concerning a vocation of certain models R today letter got SE5 and RT SE5 2010 potentiele problem: when you a vehicle that has equipped with SE5 to standstill brings entirely, the link can remain integrated so that the engine comes to a stop. As soon as the engine has come to a stop again can you possibly start and can the rear wheel not blocked be. It can be in that situation practically impossible push the vehicle of the roadway. repairing: new components in centrifugale clutch

Good job:clap::ani29:

 

[SPYDERJEFF]

check harness/RT battery,charge issue

Check left side of main harness that runs along the fuel tank for a short. We have had this happed on an RT where it seems the battery is going dead or there's a charging problem. What happens is the routing of the harness along the tank wasn't run properly and rubs against the tank and shorts out. This then blows the 60amp relay fuse which doesn't alow the battery to charge. Can re wire harness if its not bad or replace it.

 

[phillipbj]

Thanks for the follow-up...unfortunately I have a battery issue....as long as I leave on Battery Tender when not driving..it will start...there is no digital readout...but analog works...have appt. with dealership this Friday so will see what is said about losing charge and blank screen - there is power to the screen because you can see light ... checked all my fuses...all good....I will post here what I find out from dealership on Fri. I am totally dependent on their knowledge as my mechanical skills are beyond limited BUT have been greatly expanded because of this issue/challenge..I now can say I own & can operate a voltmeter; battery tender; fuse puller...adding hammer as suggested by earlier poster...and practicing my sailor language for use with hammer!!!!:2thumbs:

Murphy, what did the dealer advise? This thread came to an end unfinished. I was reading with interest, waiting for your recap of the dealer visit. Nada!

 

[chrisad50]

I just got my bike back from the shop for its first service. My bike went dead after a couple of days. Charged battery, still nothing. I went through the suggestions in the manual (fuses,...). All good.
Finally I started removing panels so I could get to the battery. Turns out the service tech didn't tighten down the negative terminal on the battery. As soon as I snugged it up, all the problems went away.

 

[Arthur---Mexico]

Battery tender

Get a load of this. The Spyder shop here in Mexico City told me that I was damaging the computer system in my 2008 SE5 Spyder using my automatic 1½ amp battery tender connected to maintain my battery charge. He told me that those small chargers send "spikes" that ruin the computer. Lot's of BS, no? I was also told that I should remove the ignition key from being plugged in because leaving the key in causes the computer to stay activated even though in the Off position discharging the battery. He added that the key should be stored at least 32" away from the Spyder when not in use or else the Spyder's computer will stay activated discharging the battery. More BS?

:2thumbs: You keep at it girl, and keep a battery tender on it when not in use.