Any ideas on why it's Stalling?? Comments?

[ARNIE R]

Just go down to NAPA auto parts store and get some 3mm silicone hose. You'll need about 8 inches. The hoses are on the left side just above the oil filter. There are 2 of them one very visible the other not so much but they are there together. Pull one off and measure it against your new hose and cut it exact. Then do the other. Just pretend you are doing and oil change take the same covers off and you will find them.

Thank you kindly.

 

[Bfromla]

Just go down to NAPA auto parts store and get some 3mm silicone hose. You'll need about 8 inches. The hoses are on the left side just above the oil filter. There are 2 of them one very visible the other not so much but they are there together. Pull one off and measure it against your new hose and cut it exact. Then do the other. Just pretend you are doing and oil change take the same covers off and you will find them.

I believe Napa even has hi-vis or neon colors for replacement :clap:

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Somewhat up under the airbox. And if you want to prevent even more potential problems in the future, do a canisterectomy on it. Do a forum search for info. Be safe out there.

 

[spyder01]

Couple points here,first this is the 1300 motor so I dont think vac hoses or canisterectomy even apply.Second crank sensors are notorious for being sensitive to heat,they tend to fail when they get hot so its common to start and then fail after engine warm up.They usually will set a code but sometimes they dont.The ohms testing procedure one guy noted will only test to see if the wires from the ECM down to the sensor are ok,it wont test the sensor.IMHO there is no reliable way to test the sensor,yours is probably bad and just replace it.One other thing is when I see oil coming out of a sensor it means that the sensor has micro cracks that allowed oil to enter and that can cause failure.My opinions are based on 25 years of owning a shop that did a lot of computer related type work on cars and trucks which use the same systems as your Spyder.Funny thing was when I replaced the cam sensor on my 17rt I noticed it looked like the same sensor that I had installed so many of in many cars which shall remain nameless.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Couple points here,first this is the 1300 motor so I dont think vac hoses or canisterectomy even apply.Second crank sensors are notorious for being sensitive to heat,they tend to fail when they get hot so its common to start and then fail after engine warm up.They usually will set a code but sometimes they dont.The ohms testing procedure one guy noted will only test to see if the wires from the ECM down to the sensor are ok,it wont test the sensor.IMHO there is no reliable way to test the sensor,yours is probably bad and just replace it.One other thing is when I see oil coming out of a sensor it means that the sensor has micro cracks that allowed oil to enter and that can cause failure.My opinions are based on 25 years of owning a shop that did a lot of computer related type work on cars and trucks which use the same systems as your Spyder.Funny thing was when I replaced the cam sensor on my 17rt I noticed it looked like the same sensor that I had installed so many of in many cars which shall remain nameless.

Just a minor point with your post above spyder01 - All the 2014 STS's like the one the OP is having stalling issues with came out with the 998cc V-Twin motor - in fact, ALL ST's came out with the V-twin motor, it was only ever the RT's that were 'upgraded' to the 1330 motor in 2014 after BRP missed the 2013 release; and the F3's never had anything but the 1330 motor! So the vac hoses & canisterectomy issues are VERY applicable in this particular instance. :thumbup:

But I'd say you're right on the mark with all the rest... hyea:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Couple points here,first this is the 1300 motor so I dont think vac hoses or canisterectomy even apply.Second crank sensors are notorious for being sensitive to heat,they tend to fail when they get hot so its common to start and then fail after engine warm up.They usually will set a code but sometimes they dont.The ohms testing procedure one guy noted will only test to see if the wires from the ECM down to the sensor are ok,it wont test the sensor.IMHO there is no reliable way to test the sensor,yours is probably bad and just replace it.One other thing is when I see oil coming out of a sensor it means that the sensor has micro cracks that allowed oil to enter and that can cause failure.My opinions are based on 25 years of owning a shop that did a lot of computer related type work on cars and trucks which use the same systems as your Spyder.Funny thing was when I replaced the cam sensor on my 17rt I noticed it looked like the same sensor that I had installed so many of in many cars which shall remain nameless.

The OP has an STS which never had the 1330 engine and the V-twin were notorious for vacuum hose failure ..... Mike

 

[ARNIE R]

Ordered a new CPS unit - still about 15 days until its available.

Silicone vacuum hoses - are these things as rare as hen's teeth? Called 4 NAPA stores today and no 1/8 inch anywhere. Also called about 5 other auto parts stores without success. One place referred me to a nearby company that deals with all sorts of tubes, hoses, lines, etc. Poor guy on the phone found 1/8 inch hose but was not sure of its type - close to their quitting time, so he probably didn't want to get too involved in finding out.

Guess I'll buy something online as I see many sites that sell the stuff.

Fun times ahead.......

Thanks for all the comments so far.........

 

[Haze]

PM me your address. I will send you a foot of the silicon hose I have left over from
working on my 2013 STS.
I also did a canisterectomy and was very pleased with the results.

 

[ARNIE R]

PM me your address. I will send you a foot of the silicon hose I have left over from
working on my 2013 STS.
I also did a canisterectomy and was very pleased with the results.

Thank you, that is very kind of you.

PM sent.

 

[PMK]

Apologies for coming back late and not replying to your question asking about the hose location.
Seems you have that well in hand and hopefully have gotten your stalling issue resolved.

You may want to read up on how to correctly clean the throttle bodies. Apparently, dealers are not doing this and merely selling replacements at big bucks. Unless broken, correctly cleaning them resolves many “how it runs issues” also.

 

[spyder01]

Guess I missed that it was a 998 motor,but I think he still needs a crank sensor.

 

[ARNIE R]

Guess I missed that it was a 998 motor,but I think he still needs a crank sensor.

I have already ordered one to be on the safe side.

 

[ARNIE R]

Apologies for coming back late and not replying to your question asking about the hose location.
Seems you have that well in hand and hopefully have gotten your stalling issue resolved.

You may want to read up on how to correctly clean the throttle bodies. Apparently, dealers are not doing this and merely selling replacements at big bucks. Unless broken, correctly cleaning them resolves many “how it runs issues” also.

Wouldn’t surprise me if they left something loose or inadvertently “screwed” something up when the bike was in their shop for the valve cover gaskets leaking. Had the bike almost a whole month and obviously had to take things apart here and there. I also recall a comment from the service advisor when I picked it up. He made a specific comment regarding the vacuum hoses being a weak spot but did not elaborate any further, Wonder if he already knew something…….

Anyway, one of kind members here is sending me some silicone hose - much appreciated!

 

[ARNIE R]

Two observations today.

In anticipation of installing the new vacuum hoses, I pulled off some body panels in advance. Is it factory custom to use black zip ties around the vacuum hose where it attaches to the MAP sensor. There is one zip tie only on the hose that feeds to the rear cylinder, but none anywhere else. Also, out of curiosity, I also rechecked for any codes and had 1175 show up before I even started the engine. I believe this one refers to the rear cylinder running rich? I had no codes showing after my ride the other day after cleaning the CPS. Wonder if that zip tied vacuum hose to the rear cylinder has any connection with that code.
After running the engine for a few minutes, the code did not appear again.

 

[Bfromla]

Hopefully not reoccurring
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...ring-not-constant-code-amp-check-engine-light

 

[ARNIE R]

Hopefully not reoccurring
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...ring-not-constant-code-amp-check-engine-light

Wow. Scary reading all that.

Just left my dealership after conferring with the service manager. As I already knew what he repeated about the original oil leak repairs not being related to the current codes, I did stress that I was concerned if something may have been damaged, installed improperly, etc since all of this started after the oil leak repairs. Being backed up, appointment -wise til the end of August did not sit well with me as it would sit in their lot in the event that a blank time slot just happened to unexpectedly open. He finally agreed to have it looked at this Wednesday, so I will drop it off and see what happens.
He also stated that these type of events tend to frequently occur in the “older style” Spyders and I should get used to it happening.
The first four years went well- all of this started after the oil leak job.
Was planning on going riding tomorrow but I feel very apprehensive about it.

 

[Terraplane8Bob]

Just a thought ----- I have, on several occasions, had the vent on the gas cap get plugged up by the dust we all kick up on our travels and merely cleaning the vent solved the problem. Your issue of the motor running for several minutes without issue and then suddenly, being starved of fuel, stumbling and dying is typical of a clogged gas cap vent. That might not be your problem, but it surely is a simple fix ! Good luck ------ Bob

 

[ARNIE R]

Wouldn’t surprise me if they left something loose or inadvertently “screwed” something up when the bike was in their shop for the valve cover gaskets leaking. Had the bike almost a whole month and obviously had to take things apart here and there. I also recall a comment from the service advisor when I picked it up. He made a specific comment regarding the vacuum hoses being a weak spot but did not elaborate any further, Wonder if he already knew something…….

Anyway, one of kind members here is sending me some silicone hose - much appreciated!

Speaking of vacuum hoses - before I went to the dealership today, I noticed that the vacuum hose attached to the rear cylinder had a black zip tie wrapped around it at the MAP fitting. When I asked the service manager if this was a normal factory procedure, he stated that it was something that they did at the service department if they found the "original metal clamps" were no longer tight during a repair, so they zip tie it to make it tight again. I wasn't aware that there were any metal clamps used on the fittings - at least the other 3 connections have none.

So, after arriving home, I took another good look at the vacuum hoses. I gently tugged at the zip tied fitting and the hose literally slipped off. Removed the zip tie and tried putting the hose back on, but it was entirely too loose. That may be related to the P1175 code I got for the rear cylinder.

I am not too confident in their service department any longer, and, it turns out the service manager doubles as a Yamaha technician, since they sell Yamaha, Suzuki and Kawasaki products as well. He admitted that he was not all that familiar with the layout of the 998 Spyder engine..........geez.

 

[Bfromla]

Wow. Scary reading all that.

Just left my dealership after conferring with the service manager. As I already knew what he repeated about the original oil leak repairs not being related to the current codes, I did stress that I was concerned if something may have been damaged, installed improperly, etc since all of this started after the oil leak repairs. Being backed up, appointment -wise til the end of August did not sit well with me as it would sit in their lot in the event that a blank time slot just happened to unexpectedly open. He finally agreed to have it looked at this Wednesday, so I will drop it off and see what happens.
He also stated that these type of events tend to frequently occur in the “older style” Spyders and I should get used to it happening.
The first four years went well- all of this started after the oil leak job.
Was planning on going riding tomorrow but I feel very apprehensive about it.

Thx more aggravation than scary. Still enjoying the ride just more awareness & attempt to gather info might find the gremlin. As far as “older style” :roflblack: ya anything with age has “STYLE” :clap:. Don’t let apprehension spoil a good ryde, join an escort bud &/or good roadside assistance like AMA. They good machines, just need TLC to keep them/You going, & going, & going, :clap: refill, repeat fyi@69k+ now :doorag: opcorn:

 

[PMK]

Speaking of vacuum hoses - before I went to the dealership today, I noticed that the vacuum hose attached to the rear cylinder had a black zip tie wrapped around it at the MAP fitting. When I asked the service manager if this was a normal factory procedure, he stated that it was something that they did at the service department if they found the "original metal clamps" were no longer tight during a repair, so they zip tie it to make it tight again. I wasn't aware that there were any metal clamps used on the fittings - at least the other 3 connections have none.

So, after arriving home, I took another good look at the vacuum hoses. I gently tugged at the zip tied fitting and the hose literally slipped off. Removed the zip tie and tried putting the hose back on, but it was entirely too loose. That may be related to the P1175 code I got for the rear cylinder.

I am not too confident in their service department any longer, and, it turns out the service manager doubles as a Yamaha technician, since they sell Yamaha, Suzuki and Kawasaki products as well. He admitted that he was not all that familiar with the layout of the 998 Spyder engine..........geez.

I am going to ask a harsh question. As a kid, did your mom tell you not to touch the hot pan on the stove? But likely you did anyway. Learned a lesson not soon forgotten.

In simple terms, realize your dealer may be that hot pan. You got burned once, seems unlikely the pan has cooled yet based on your previous reply. Don’t get burned again. Realize too, putting BS onto burns does not heal them faster. A service writer might tell you whatever they deem needed at that time. Does not always mean it is true.