Any Hints to make New Battery Installation easier? 2016 RT

[sandeejs]

So, I'm putting in a new battery on my 2016 RT-L. Any hints to make it easier? I don't like to sweat.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Test fit the terminals and the top 'hold down' bracket onto the top of the new battery with both outside the trunk, and do any necessary cleaning of terminals, mods etc, especially any necessary to make the bracket hold the battery securely, BEFORE you start putting anything back into the frunk!

Then fit that bracket into its slots in the frame above & behind the battery and use some duct tape/100mph tape to tape it AND the battery leads up out of the way before you try to fit the new battery into the hole. Once the new battery is in, it'll be easy enough to pull the tape off & drop the bracket into place on the top of the battery, then secure it, and fit the battery leads/terminals. :thumbup:

If you haven't already, don't forget to add star washers to the terminal nuts so that once tightened properly, they won't ever work loose again; and once it's all connected up again, just stick a socket on a long extension in behind the LH Wheel and make sure that the other end of the Earth Lead is firmly attached onto the end of the cable and tightened down onto a clean, rust-free section of the frame. That lead & the Earth it makes is essential to the proper operation of the DPS (electric Dynamic Power Steering) and the movement of the lead that invariably happens whenever you're removing/replacing the battery can loosen it/pull the cable out of its earth terminal fitting, resulting in either the DPS not working at all (Limp Mode results) or before Limp Mode kicks in, some really hairy moments as the DPS cuts in and out while you're riding along &/or half-way thru a really tight corner with oncoming traffic!! :yikes: Do you really need to ask me how I know about that little heart stopper?? pps:

Oh, and DO make sure that YOU fully charge your new battery before installing it! Unless you REALLY TRUST the battery retailer, it's best to believe that it HASN'T been fully charged by them, and if you install it before giving it a good 8 hours or so on a proper multi-stage battery charger (& NOT just sticking it on a battery tender or cheap trickle charger! ) then make sure you practice and record everything you do while re-installing the 'new' battery this time around, cos without that good pre-installation charge, the chances are that you'll be replacing the battery again a whole lot sooner than should be necessary! So YOU should charge it properly FIRST! :lecturef_smilie:

Enjoy! :cheers:

 

[Woodaddict]

Any hints to make it easier? I don't like to sweat.

find a MALE!!!!

 

[BertRemington]

A small bright LED flashlight is useful to see where the holdown bracket tangs fit into the frame slots.

 

[Isopedella]

that....

once it's all connected up again, just stick a socket on a long extension in behind the LH Wheel and make sure that the other end of the Earth Lead is firmly attached onto the end of the cable and tightened down onto a clean, rust-free section of the frame.

is a brand new gem for me. Thanks Peter.

 

[Mikey]

If I remember right it in the frunk, that gets as easy as it gets, if you don't think so come take mine out and put it back in!! Just went through that deal last week!:thumbup: P.S Star washers!!!

 

[spyderider1]

All good suggestions above. I'd also add it works best if you insert the bottom of the battery first and then tip the top in to it's proper place. It's also recommended that you have a few choice cusswords nearby for proper installation.

 

[Flamewinger]

Put the new battery on a tender for a day or so before installing. Check YouTube for videos.

 

[Lew L]

.

Only 4 , easy to access, bolts to remove the trunk LID. A folded towel over the front, and you've got easier access to the battery opening. BRP couldn't have made the battery opening 1/2" bigger----------��

Lew L

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

.

Only 4 , easy to access, bolts to remove the trunk LID. A folded towel over the front, and you've got easier access to the battery opening. BRP couldn't have made the battery opening 1/2" bigger----------��

Lew L

After the first time I had to Remove a battery, now before I put the new one in, I wrap some nylon cord around it to use as a PULL strap ...... It makes this chore lots easier .... good luck .....Mike :thumbup:

 

[2dogs]

If you've ever replaced a headlight bulb then you know replacing the battery is a cakewalk.

 

[chipveres]

find a MALE!!!!

I know it's sexist as can be, but that advice certainly makes repairs easier for MY wife!

 

[DGoebel]

WoodAddict and ChipVeres, my wife, the USAF Galaxy C-5 and Globemaster III C-17 crewchief and all her peers would just tsk, tsk, tsk you old misogynistic geezers Apparently you haven't been paying attention to the advancements in the world lately. Though I've wrenched on vehicles since the early 70's, I still ask Sharon to fix somethings that my big meaty paws can't easily fit in.

Have you guys never heard of Ryker Rydes ( rykerrydes.com ) or others like Ryker Chick (who does most of her own maintenance though does ask her hubby to be an extra set of hands) Both have thousands of subscribers on their Youtube channels. I've had plenty of "males" ask me to work on their spyders, just because they didn't have the tools, inclination, or desire to wrench themselves, SandeeJS sounds like she does.

FYI, SandeeJS's IronButt # tells me she's likely more than capable, even though she's just asking for suggestions to do it herself.

 

[Isopedella]

WoodAddict and ChipVeres, my wife, the USAF Galaxy C-5 and Globemaster III C-17 crewchief and all her peers would just tsk, tsk, tsk you old misogynistic geezers Apparently you haven't been paying attention to the advancements in the world lately. Though I've wrenched on vehicles since the early 70's, I still ask Sharon to fix somethings that my big meaty paws can't easily fit in.

Have you guys never heard of Ryker Rydes ( rykerrydes.com ) or others like Ryker Chick (who does most of her own maintenance though does ask her hubby to be an extra set of hands) Both have thousands of subscribers on their Youtube channels. I've had plenty of "males" ask me to work on their spyders, just because they didn't have the tools, inclination, or desire to wrench themselves, SandeeJS sounds like she does.

FYI, SandeeJS's IronButt # tells me she's likely more than capable, even though she's just asking for suggestions to do it herself.

Couldn't agree more. :clap: Some Blokes need dragging into the 80's.

One of the best bike Mechanics or Techs these days I guess I know is a Chick and would leave most Blokes in her dust, riding or wrenching.

Me included, and I have been wrenching since the late 70's. Mentored by a Mechanical Engineer and into bikes.

Not surprisingly, I'm into torques as I was encouraged not to take shortcuts where possible.
My favorite tools are an inch pound wrench, 6-point sockets, and a digital micrometer.

 

[chipveres]

Couldn't agree more. :clap: Some Blokes need dragging into the 80's.

One of the best bike Mechanics or Techs these days I guess I know is a Chick and would leave most Blokes in her dust, riding or wrenching.

Me included, and I have been wrenching since the late 70's. Mentored by a Mechanical Engineer and into bikes.

Not surprisingly, I'm into torques as I was encouraged not to take shortcuts where possible.
My favorite tools are an inch pound wrench, 6-point sockets, and a digital micrometer.

I stand by my original statement. No matter how skillful, experienced or licensed the lady is, it's still easier to point at the problem and say "Fix this, Charles". Not necessarily better, just easier.

 

[Isopedella]

So, I'm putting in a new battery on my 2016 RT-L. Any hints to make it easier? I don't like to sweat.

Thanks in advance.

So how ya going with this?

This is my F3 battery in situ if it helps.
Under the frunk liner, totally guessing but suspect yours is similar with the a 2016 RT-L.



Had to hold my mouth right and wriggle the retaining bracket into position from memory.

 

[sandeejs]

Thanks

So, I looked at old records and saw the current battery was only about a year old. Spyder started right up and demanded battery fluid. I will wait on the battery replacement.

For those that don't stalk me, I suffered an injury to my left leg - peroneol nerve - causing "drop foot". This in turn resulted in a minor car accident and left me scared to drive my truck.

On the Spyder, it's difficult to confuse the brake with the throttle. So, with the addition of nice highway pegs from Lamont, I will be mobile again!

Thank all of you who offered hints. I will save them for next time.

 

[Bfromla]

So, I'm putting in a new battery on my 2016 RT-L. Any hints to make it easier? I don't like to sweat.

Thanks in advance.

Sweat is one thing the battery position is not back friendly -another whole & longer lasting dislike.
:lecturef_smilie:opcorn: Acquire some star washers & some scotch tape, remove frunk liner & the plastic cover. Please keep track of cover bolts by threading back in few turns w/o the cover. Suggest removing the hold down bracket completely before disconnecting (careful not to touch terminals) can leave the rubber part just fold out of way towards frunk. Fat head Phillip’s Screwdriver in tool kit is plenty, unless just want use wrench(sometimes the angle can not cooperate.) maybe take a pic for position of terminal facing & orientation reference. Carefully undo connections keeping cables out of your way & not touching opposing side.(cables will be stiff & bent to shape kinda troublesome) Keeping track of bolts & slide nut by threading bolt back in (if not the nut might slide out- can apply scotch tape on outside edge or just use bolts. Tilt batt forward & remove. Stand up relieve back. Reverse process in with new; adding the star washers between battery & terminal (can be tricky & may drop washer or two, maybe self explanatory but the star grips the lead of battery to terminal not the head of bolt)