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Any A/mkt Clutch Kits for 09 SE5's?

DLE

New member
When I roll on the throttle at higher RPMs, the engine revs and the Spyder catches up after a couple of seconds. Assuming I may need a new clutch plates, is anyone aware of after market clutches for the se5?
 
What oil are you using? Even if you install new plates, use of the wrong oil will bring the problem back and ruin the new plates in time.
 
What oil are you using? Even if you install new plates, use of the wrong oil will bring the problem back and ruin the new plates in time.

Amsoil motorcycle oil. Got it from Baja Ron. Other oil used was obtained from BRP for the Spyder.
 
My RS-S SE5 does the same thing but only very occasionally and usually only when shifting from first gear. It only has around 5500 miles so the clutch shouldn't be worn. It did start doing this after I switched to Amsoil (the proper motorcycle grade). Now I'm -not-, repeat -not- saying Amsoil has anything to do with it, it's just an observation. I know many run Amsoil with no problems. I don't know what the actual problem is and it occurs too infrequently to figure out why. I do plan to switch back to BRP synthetic on the next oil change just to see if it makes any difference.

I've carefully checked the oil level several times as low oil has been reported to cause such issues, but my oil level is not low or too high. So it's a mystery. If it continues I'll try to have the dealer look at it but it's not likely to occur when he does, so it'll probably go undiagnosed until if and when it gets worse.
 
BRP has just came out with a new clutch that has an extra friction plate and steel plate along with a new oil jet. This will fit all Spyder models and years.
 
My RS-S SE5 does the same thing but only very occasionally and usually only when shifting from first gear. It only has around 5500 miles so the clutch shouldn't be worn. It did start doing this after I switched to Amsoil (the proper motorcycle grade). Now I'm -not-, repeat -not- saying Amsoil has anything to do with it, it's just an observation. I know many run Amsoil with no problems. I don't know what the actual problem is and it occurs too infrequently to figure out why. I do plan to switch back to BRP synthetic on the next oil change just to see if it makes any difference.

I've carefully checked the oil level several times as low oil has been reported to cause such issues, but my oil level is not low or too high. So it's a mystery. If it continues I'll try to have the dealer look at it but it's not likely to occur when he does, so it'll probably go undiagnosed until if and when it gets worse.

I don't notice it much in 1st or 2nd, but I can replicate it anytime I want in the upper gears. Especially in 5th. It does seem that it has become much more pronounced since my last oil change when I started using Amsoil. But now I think the damage is done and I need to change the clutch plates to prevent further damage. I only have a little over 17000 miles on the machine.
 
BRP has just came out with a new clutch that has an extra friction plate and steel plate along with a new oil jet. This will fit all Spyder models and years.

Thanks Lamont. Would that entail changing the entire clutch assembly, or just the clutch plates?
If I order the parts from my local Spyder dealer, would I need to specify the new clutch to ensure I get the new style?
Thanks for the notice.
 
Thanks Lamont. Would that entail changing the entire clutch assembly, or just the clutch plates?
If I order the parts from my local Spyder dealer, would I need to specify the new clutch to ensure I get the new style?
Thanks for the notice.

It's just the plates and the oil jet and I would ask them to make sure it's the new style clutch.
 
BRP has just came out with a new clutch that has an extra friction plate and steel plate along with a new oil jet. This will fit all Spyder models and years.
An update clutch was long awaited :thumbup:
 
I am glad that I am not the only one having problems with clutches slipping, between 1st & 2nd. My 2010 RT SE is at the dealers now for the same problem HOWEVER, they can't find anything wrong with it. I had the same problem last year, I took it to the dealer three times, and they said nothing was wrong. I took it on a trip to NC and burned up the clutches, which they repaired, when I got back.
I am having the same problem again, and again they said that nothing is wrong; they said that because I installed "K" grips, the paddles were causing the problem. HOWEVER, the first time it happened, I didn't have the grips on the bike. Lamont, I sent an e-mail to Carlo, he said that if the Tech couldn't find anything wrong, then to call them, I don't think he did. When the Tech took it for a ride, he found that he had a problem shifting into low gears (I was not having that problem) and he found a code on the computer, so all he did is to order new paddles. Here we go again, except that my Warranty ran out this month. Now it looks that if the clutches go out now, it's my nickel! :banghead::banghead::banghead:
 
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It's just the plates and the oil jet and I would ask them to make sure it's the new style clutch.

Just finished ordering the new clutch. The part number isn't in the computer yet. They were finally able to obtain it and order same.
If anyone is interested, the part number is 420281935, listed as a clutch kit. Again, thanks for letting me know about it.
 
Just finished ordering the new clutch. The part number isn't in the computer yet. They were finally able to obtain it and order same.
If anyone is interested, the part number is 420281935, listed as a clutch kit. Again, thanks for letting me know about it.

Thanks for your research. Much appreciated! I'll make good use of this soon.
 
Just finished ordering the new clutch. The part number isn't in the computer yet. They were finally able to obtain it and order same.
If anyone is interested, the part number is 420281935, listed as a clutch kit. Again, thanks for letting me know about it.

Are you going to install it yourself? If so please consider posting your experience here, and some photos of the install would be great.
 
Just finished ordering the new clutch. The part number isn't in the computer yet. They were finally able to obtain it and order same.
If anyone is interested, the part number is 420281935, listed as a clutch kit. Again, thanks for letting me know about it.

Since the SE clutch and the SM clutch are identical except one of the clutch plates is thicker, I would assume the kit number you quoted is for the SE and there would be a different number for the SM?
 
Since the SE clutch and the SM clutch are identical except one of the clutch plates is thicker, I would assume the kit number you quoted is for the SE and there would be a different number for the SM?
Roadster 2012-7 - New Clutch Service Parts
- 420 281 930 (SM5)
- 420 281 935 (SE5)
 
Roadster 2012-7 - New Clutch Service Parts
- 420 281 930 (SM5)
- 420 281 935 (SE5)

Thanks Lamont, I only obtained the SE5 number as that was what I ordered. Clutch is supposed to arrive next Tuesday. I'll take some photos and post them on the installation.
Do you know what changing the oil jet entails. I have not been able to find out anything regarding it's location and/or procedure regarding changing it.
 
Thanks Lamont, I only obtained the SE5 number as that was what I ordered. Clutch is supposed to arrive next Tuesday. I'll take some photos and post them on the installation.
Do you know what changing the oil jet entails. I have not been able to find out anything regarding it's location and/or procedure regarding changing it.

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BRP has just came out with a new clutch that has an extra friction plate and steel plate along with a new oil jet. This will fit all Spyder models and years.

Since it has an additional friction plate and steel plate, would this eliminate the need for using additional adjustment plates. Should also add that the new steel driven plate is thicker then the 2.5mm original. When I measured the disk spring on the pressure plate I got 12mm. Measuring the from the top of the clutch hub to the last friction plate I got 11.5mm. Using the formula for adjustment plate thickness = B - A - nominal dimention 1.1mm, I was +.5mm, and did not add any adjustment plates. No new adjustment plates were sent, so would have had to use the old ones. Clutch still appears to be slipping. Any ideas?
 
Since it has an additional friction plate and steel plate, would this eliminate the need for using additional adjustment plates. Should also add that the new steel driven plate is thicker then the 2.5mm original. When I measured the disk spring on the pressure plate I got 12mm. Measuring the from the top of the clutch hub to the last friction plate I got 11.5mm. Using the formula for adjustment plate thickness = B - A - nominal dimention 1.1mm, I was +.5mm, and did not add any adjustment plates. No new adjustment plates were sent, so would have had to use the old ones. Clutch still appears to be slipping. Any ideas?

The clutch pack doesn't come with the shims/ You want 1mm and I would say .5 is not enough. You'll have to order the shim kit.
 
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