alignment specs

[mjw930]

Does anyone have the published alignment specs (I have a service manual on order so I'll have this info in a week or so)?

In looking at the front it's obvious they spec toe-out which is great for making the initial turn it crisper but I suspect it also contributes to some of the dartiness, especially on uneven road surfaces.

 

[dltang]

Does anyone have the published alignment specs (I have a service manual on order so I'll have this info in a week or so)?

In looking at the front it's obvious they spec toe-out which is great for making the initial turn it crisper but I suspect it also contributes to some of the dartiness, especially on uneven road surfaces.

I do not know if this has anything to do with anything you are talking about, but the cambers can not be adjusted. My service manager just told me that on Friday. I had some very uneven wear and had to replace front tires at 13000 miles. I also will watch my psi more closely now as my inflation in each tire
was vastly different and that contributed to the issue.

 

[swrafey2000]

There are three of us here in Lakeland,Fl that put the Ride-On in and haven't had to adjust the tire air pressure in three months.

 

[NancysToy]

The specs for the Spyder are:

Camber: 0 deg. +/- 0.5 deg.
Toe-in: 0". +/- 0.0197"
0 mm +/- 0.5 mm

According to the manual the caster is not adjustable, but the camber should be. They give a procedure for adjusting the angle, but they are not specific in how to do it, nor do they seem to list alignment shims.
-Scotty

 

[mjw930]

Thanks,

Now I need to see how they suggest to check and adjust it from the service manual. I don't really think every Can-Am dealer invested in precision alignment gear so it will be interesting to find out how they do it.

I have access to racing alignment gear you see below and have been doing string and carpenter's level adjustments on track cars for over 30 years so the Spyder shouldn't be all that hard.

 

[NancysToy]

Thanks,

Now I need to see how they suggest to check and adjust it from the service manual. I don't really think every Can-Am dealer invested in precision alignment gear so it will be interesting to find out how they do it.

I have access to racing alignment gear you see below and have been doing string and carpenter's level adjustments on track cars for over 30 years so the Spyder shouldn't be all that hard.

They use a digital protractor, zero it under the frame, then check the angle on the caliper mounting points on the spindle. Angle there should be 80.9 deg. +/- 0.5 deg. I would think conventional tools checked against the actual alignment specs I provided earlier would work. Adjustment is still a question mark, though, and requires removal of a lot of Tupperware.
-Scotty

 

[captainryder]

Let me get this straight...

1. the Camber is adjustable? dltang says no, nancys toy says yes.
2. the toe alignment is (+) or a toe-out, which explains sometimes the dartiness
3. There is a tool that is an extra for the servicing dealers to buy to align the Spyder? Hopefully, my dealer has considered this.

dltang replacing tires at 1300miles, I got only 5000 miles. Could my air pressure in my tires being uneven cause wear this fast? I just checked my tires (front), and they were at 15lbs, underinflated. Is that a reason for the wear showing faster. I always thought that underinflated wore the sidewalls on both sides faster, but obviously, with this camber problem (which I will or will not be able to change), the wear is on the inside? Someone please explain.......

 

[NancysToy]

Let me get this straight...

1. the Camber is adjustable? dltang says no, nancys toy says yes.
2. the toe alignment is (+) or a toe-out, which explains sometimes the dartiness
3. There is a tool that is an extra for the servicing dealers to buy to align the Spyder? Hopefully, my dealer has considered this.

dltang replacing tires at 1300miles, I got only 5000 miles. Could my air pressure in my tires being uneven cause wear this fast? I just checked my tires (front), and they were at 15lbs, underinflated. Is that a reason for the wear showing faster. I always thought that underinflated wore the sidewalls on both sides faster, but obviously, with this camber problem (which I will or will not be able to change), the wear is on the inside? Someone please explain.......

BRP publishes a camber spec, but does not detail a standard procedure to either check it or adjust it, at least not under the heading of "Alignment". Under the section for replacing the front suspension arms, however, they do include a procedure for checking it, and a separate spec for the checking method. They then say to adjust it, although they never quite explain just how. It appears that adding shims under the a-arm bolts would do the trick, but they don't come right out and say that directly. Bottom line is that if your tires are wearing to one side, you should check it against the spec, then something needs to be done about it if it is not correct. If the machine is not in spec, it is up to BRP to repair it under warranty, it would seem. BTW, 15 psi is within the recommended tire pressure range, although most of us prefer to run it higher. BRP actually recommends a pressure slightly below this...and this is the minimum pressure listed on the tire sidewall. Also according to the spec there is no toe-out or toe-in. Spec is zero! The tool is not for checking alignment, it is for checking after replacing the a-arms...a major repair.
-Scotty

 

[mjw930]

For those who are so inclined here's a very good writeup of how to check alignment in your own garage.

http://racecarstuff.com/?page_id=2

I'll check ours this weekend and post what I find.

 

[DragonSpyder]

I have stated this before but when I set mine with a slight Toe-in the handling became much more responsive and no more wandering due to uneven roads.