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Air in the System?

JkRbbt

New member
Hi Folks,
I have a "new" 2014 RTS that is having an engine overheat problem. First time I noticed the needle climbing was at 250 miles on the clock. But, just as I noticed, the needle went back to "normal" and I thought it was just a glitch. The next time it happened, I had just ridden about 180 miles the following week and stopped for lunch. As I was leaving town, a few blocks of stop and go traffic, the needle pegged out "HOT"! I pulled over and checked the coolant which is really difficult in bright sunshine on the side of the road. I couldn't tell the exact level, but there was fluid in the reservoir! Turned the key back on and the temp registered "normal," so we took off. Went about 40 more miles at "normal" and then she climbed back to "HOT"! I kept riding to see what she would do, and the needle would drop back to "normal", then go to the bottom of the "hot" arc, then peg, then back to "normal".

Took her to the Spyder doctor and he couldn't duplicate it, of course, but put about a quart of fluid in to top it off. NO evidence of a leak on the ground, on the engine, or anywhere else. (Question the setup procedure.) Last Monday, I rode about 200 miles and everything was "normal" UNTIL the last few blocks from home. The needle pegged out again! Checked the coolant and it was right at "full" for a hot engine. Took it back to the shop and they idled it for a 1/2 hr with no evidence of leak, temp normal, and did top off with a bit more coolant. The gent said that these engines do get "air in the system". My question to everyone with the 1330 is, have you ever heard of this. The motor, having been around for a couple of years now, I thought I would have heard of something like this if they are susceptible. Anyone else have a problem with the motor overheating or any indication problems? Feel free to chime in. I think my mech could use the help! Thanks!
 
i had a subaru outback that after they changed my anti freeze it overheated for weeks. changed the thermostat and it was fine. i would ask the dealer to change the stat
 
Take it out for a ride and when it does it flip your phone to video and record it. Or snap a few pics.
Sounds to me like a faulty temp sensor.

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The overheat issue has not seemed to crop up on the 1330's. 18K here/no problems--but mine don't count because I am in Alaska.

I am guessing coolant level or thermostat also.

Let us know what you find out.
 
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Try this..!!

disconnect the temp and gas guages and run on the digital ones that appear on the screen. If the temp runs normal you may have a bad guage. This is not uncommon. Mind you if you try this you do have to disconnet both. If not have the dealer do it. I don't see you having overheating problems cause the computer has ways to let you know other than a needle sweep...:dontknow:
 
Thanx, folks. You may be on to something, Gene, because the computer didn't store any o/heat codes. I do plan to disconnect the gages, so now may be the right time to try it!
 
YES .....BUT

If the gauges are not reading correctly........then why do they have to top off the coolant ....not once but twice......It's going somewhere !!!!!!..................A ..SWAG .....my thought is ...if the cap isn't on correctly , ( and the Spyder caps are a B*tch ) there isn't going to be a good pressure seal, also this could be the reason some fluid is escaping......All coolant systems have to under pressure to operate correctly.....IMHO......Mike :thumbup:
 
Check the engine oil, see if it has water in it! If you have a leaking head or base gasket it will find it's way into the oil. Of course your oil level will be higher. If the rad was easier to see into, you could wait until the engine is cold. Then start up, with the rad cap off. Once the coolant heats up in the engine jacket the thermostat will open allowing the the coolant to flow from the rad and overflow tank around the engine. If bubbles are seen to be rising constantly, to the filler you have a possible failure of a gasket. Foam or the appearance of water in the engine oil can lead to serious engine damage. I find it curious that they are topping off the coolant frequently without looking for the underlying problem! A cooling system is a sealed system. The whole idea whether you are living in Alaska or Arkansas is to improve the efficiency of the engine. By using coolant rather than just pure water you can raise the temperature and efficiency of the engine, improve economy and reliability!



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If the gauges are not reading correctly........then why do they have to top off the coolant ....not once but twice......It's going somewhere !!!!!!..................A ..SWAG .....my thought is ...if the cap isn't on correctly , ( and the Spyder caps are a B*tch ) there isn't going to be a good pressure seal, also this could be the reason some fluid is escaping......All coolant systems have to under pressure to operate correctly.....IMHO......Mike :thumbup:

Mike, thanx for the input. They have pressure tested the system and it is holding pressure. Also, there is no indication of any leakage, but I will darn sure double check around that area!
 
Check the engine oil, see if it has water in it! If you have a leaking head or base gasket it will find it's way into the oil. Of course your oil level will be higher. If the rad was easier to see into, you could wait until the engine is cold. Then start up, with the rad cap off. Once the coolant heats up in the engine jacket the thermostat will open allowing the the coolant to flow from the rad and overflow tank around the engine. If bubbles are seen to be rising constantly, to the filler you have a possible failure of a gasket. Foam or the appearance of water in the engine oil can lead to serious engine damage. I find it curious that they are topping off the coolant frequently without looking for the underlying problem! A cooling system is a sealed system. The whole idea whether you are living in Alaska or Arkansas is to improve the efficiency of the engine. By using coolant rather than just pure water you can raise the temperature and efficiency of the engine, improve economy and reliability!



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanx! An oil check will be easy to do once I get her heated up! Appreciate the idea!
 
if you are not loosing anti freeze then I suspect the thermostat or sensor.

If you are loosing anti freeze check your spark plugs for damage or oil for water/anti freeze.
 
As with a car it is best to run the engine until it is up to temperature with the radiator cap off to get all the air out of the system. When the thermostat opens the air should escape, top it off to the full mark, put cap on all the way.
 
disconnect the temp and gas guages and run on the digital ones that appear on the screen. If the temp runs normal you may have a bad guage. This is not uncommon. Mind you if you try this you do have to disconnet both. If not have the dealer do it. I don't see you having overheating problems cause the computer has ways to let you know other than a needle sweep...:dontknow:

This is what I would do just to be sure it's not the analog gauge showing improper reading. Once that is eliminated, then you can follow up with the other things people said.

Bob
 
This is what I would do just to be sure it's not the analog gauge showing improper reading. Once that is eliminated, then you can follow up with the other things people said.

Bob

Thanx, Bob. Do you or anyone else happen to know if the red warning lite coming on is a function of the gauge position/indication or a function of another sensor? Appreciate your reply.
 
Thanx, Bob. Do you or anyone else happen to know if the red warning lite coming on is a function of the gauge position/indication or a function of another sensor? Appreciate your reply.

So you are also getting a red warning engine light on the dash? If so, then it's not a bad gauge. You are overheating.

Bob
 
So you are also getting a red warning engine light on the dash? If so, then it's not a bad gauge. You are overheating.

Bob

Thanks, that is good information. But nothing is stored in the computer. Wouldn't an overheat throw a code? Wow, the more technology we get the better things get and the MORE CONFUSING! Thanks, again, for your comment.
 
Thanks, that is good information. But nothing is stored in the computer. Wouldn't an overheat throw a code? Wow, the more technology we get the better things get and the MORE CONFUSING! Thanks, again, for your comment.

Are you trying to pull codes using the buttons? Codes wont just display on their own.

Remember if you want to see if you have any codes with the buttons you have to do it before turning the key off.

Bob
 
Ok, Whats going on? Idled tonight for a few minutes after being parked for several hours. Pulled out onto the road and went a couple blocks and the fans turned on and kept running. Usually they will run for a few seconds and quit. Noticed the needle going up into the red and the guage cluster light popped on. Pulled into the nearest parking lot and turned it off. I pulled off the cover for the coolant bottle to look for a loose cap or leaks. Bottle wasn't hot and no leaks anywhere. So started it back up and the needle went back to its normal place and no more fans. Rode to my destination without another glitch. 12,000 miles on '14 Rt.
 
I missed this post while I was in Alaska but I did have the same thing happen to my 14 RT while on the trip. The first time it did it the temp was pretty cool and we had ridden at speed (no stop and go) then we parked for a short time. When I started it back up the temp gauge ran up then after a few seconds it dropped all the way to cold then went back to normal. It did it one more time that day and then again the next day,almost as soon as I started it up. I added a bunch of coolant and it hasn't done it again. I have checked the coolant level a few more times since then and it seems to be okay. We were parking on gravel lots mostly so I couldn't tell if there was a leak. No evidence of a leak now that I am home.

I did get codes though one was a high temperature and I can't remember the other one. So 3 14 RTs have done this. Oh no, an epidemic!
 
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