• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Aggressive riding in the curves question

Yes, Ron......I bought the Bajaron stabiliser bar as I felt uncomfortable both cornering and riding on narrow cambered roads, at the speed limit. There was no way I would consider trying them at a speed faster than the advisory signs. The bar cured that feeling instantaneously for me, and meant that I had far more control and if I crept over the posted speed a "bit", I retained that feeling of confidence. It made riding the Spyder even more fun......and as for the Kuhmos, well :ohyea::D

Pete
 
aggressive riding

To the OP: might want to take your bike to a BIG parking lot and find out what your nanny feels like. Just a tad safer way to experience pushing the limits than on mountain roads. FWIW and double back what you paid for it!!
 
I had Ron's sway bar and shock adjusters. Last year I went up into South Dakota. I knew that I had really pushed it on my '14 RTL when the morning after I got home both front tires were flat. After that, my wife was not comfortable with it . It was a great ride. Yes it was. I never had the nanny kick in.
 
My set up is stock, except for car tires all around. No swaybar, no stiffeners, none of that extra stuff. What I do use is my body. I am either leaning pretty good or hanging off the side of the bike. That and my desire to go as fast as I can using the best cornering techniques that I can. I dont use the nanny as a fail safe to save my butt. My goal is to not have her make an appearance. I usually meet that goal. And I am not advising new riders to try this. Ive been riding 2 1/2 years on a Spyder and I am still learning. As they say, dont try this at home folks. Do what you are comfortable doing, not what others say they do.

As far as the definition of turns is concerned, I aint riding city streets at 35 or 40 mph over the speed limit. Im talking country roads, but not wide sweepers. Anyone can ride a wide sweeper 30 or 35 over the limit. But when I am really feeling "it", I will pull a 35 or 40 mph turn at 40 over. 40 over seems to be my limit currently. I will have half my butt off the bike, leaning out as far as I can. I dont do it all the time but I am generally going 30 over. I have been called crazy by my friends for the way I sometimes ride, but I love pushing my bike as hard as I can. Makes ya feel alive when ya do that. Believe me or dont believe me. I know what I can do. And surely to God I cant be the only one doing this.
:yes::yes:
Funny thing is, when Pebbles is on board, I am happy doing 5 or 10 over the limit so she is comfortable. I just want to ride.

There are a lot of adrenaline junkies out there. My experience is that each level gets old pretty quick, and more adrenaline is desired so more limits get pushed until the line finally gets crossed. I hope you ryde safe for your sake and the sake of those who share those same roads. Would hate to read your obit here.
 
There are a lot of adrenaline junkies out there. My experience is that each level gets old pretty quick, and more adrenaline is desired so more limits get pushed until the line finally gets crossed. I hope you ryde safe for your sake and the sake of those who share those same roads. Would hate to read your obit here.

Yes, I am an adrenaline junkie but I do not ride like this all the time. Cant do it when people are in front of me, and I don't do it when there is a lot of traffic on the other side of the road, cuz you never know what they are gonna do. I also don't do 40 over the speed limit on turns that I cant see around. If the road has been either cut into rock outcroppings, or built around them and block the view of the road, (like the Dragon or the Devils Whip)I am usually around 20 or 25 over. But if the road doesn't have anything blocking the view, I am pushing it as hard as I can.
I don't have a death wish, I have a life wish. My bike is my drug and I partake in the adrenaline as much as I can. Its good for this old man. But I appreciate the concern.
 
"Adrenaline Junkies"??? :shocked:
Try not telling your Missus about all of the Farkle Money that you've spent, and have her figure it all out on her own! :yikes:
1. It doesn't put anyone else in danger
2. It is WAYYYYYY.... more dangerous than riding any motorcycle! nojoke
 
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That is what I don't understand. Everyone always talks about how much you need shocks, and the aftermarket swaybar, etc. I know for a fact that the 2014 and up RT is more than capable. And to date, I have not come across another spyder rider that has all these after market parts that can leave me. Now that I have my F3T, I am really looking for those aftermarket believers to see what they can do.
As for the last comment, I believe the little girl with the rabbit eared hat on Bob's Burgers said it best. "The best part of living is almost dying, it's called almost live dying.":joke:

Before I purchased my RT last month, and after spending hours reading threads on this site, I was sure I was going to get a laser alignment and a BajaRon sway bar. Now that I have put some miles on it I really don't think I need the alignment, and while I'm sure the sway bar will help, I don't think I need that either. In my opinion, this bike stock out of the box tracks well and handles fine!
 
is manual tranny any better in dealing with nanny?

But the nanny also has more control on the brakes than you do..:lecturef_smilie: she will apply the brakes not cut the gas or retard the ignition whichever needed to get you safe...annoying at times but great when your losing it. If your good or getting there you may be able to double the posted speed for turns and you can fool the nanny some but in my opinion she does a good jkob on the RS/GS and RSS. May be different on the RT and F3...:dontknow:

I have 2013 RTS SE5 and while I understand the need for the "parental" controls, to me the cutting of the engine is pretty frustrating. I am wondering if you have a manual transmission with a clutch to feather, can you actually minimize the effects? I am not talking about trying to fly through a corner too fast, only about coming out of a curve or a turn harder. My semi-automatic experiences a fair amount of lag.
 
Having a clutch probably wouldn't work any better...
As you try to "feather the clutch": she'll probably just chop the throttle. nojoke
(In an attempt to prevent you from over-revving the engine. :banghead:)
 
I have 2013 RTS SE5 and while I understand the need for the "parental" controls, to me the cutting of the engine is pretty frustrating. I am wondering if you have a manual transmission with a clutch to feather, can you actually minimize the effects? I am not talking about trying to fly through a corner too fast, only about coming out of a curve or a turn harder. My semi-automatic experiences a fair amount of lag.
On my 2014 RT SM6, I only recall my acceleration being cut down when I had wheel spin and was going sideways (like doing a burn out or something). But I have often felt the brakes being applied in a curve while I was actually still accelerating and trying to encourage the bike to go faster. I have never had the nanny kick in, where it wasn't needed. Nearly each and every time that the nanny kicked in, I thought "wow, I was glad that was there to save me.".
 
I have 2013 RTS SE5 and while I understand the need for the "parental" controls, to me the cutting of the engine is pretty frustrating. I am wondering if you have a manual transmission with a clutch to feather, can you actually minimize the effects? I am not talking about trying to fly through a corner too fast, only about coming out of a curve or a turn harder. My semi-automatic experiences a fair amount of lag.

Bob is right. Having a manual clutch doesn't help. There is no 'Get Out of Jail Free' card with the Nanny in any configuration. Upgrading the suspension will quiet the Nanny quite a bit though. More control to the driver means less need for the Nanny to intervene.
 
A smooth rider can carry more corner speed than one who's rough without invoking Nanny (or as I call it, the "act your age" feature). I've gone through curves at sport bike speeds usually without drama. I lifted the inside front wheel about 6" off the pavement once, and Nanny slapped me hard; "act your age!".

And you don't have to be a speed demon either. Going into a corner that unexpectedly tightens up, or having to swerve to avoid a dog, normal driving situations can invoke Nanny especially if you're ham handed.

But trusting technology to save your from true idiocy is a fallacy, because no matter how good, you can't argue with physics.
 
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:agree: upgrade your suspension, and learn to be s m o o t h e through the corners. :2thumbs:

Absolutely! Hard parts can improve how the Spyder handles. But the rider is still the most important component of all. Upgrades cannot fully compensate for bad driving habits. Nor should any on board computer be expected to bail you out of every situation. Take control of your ride and ride it correctly. Everything will go much better if you do. Whether you ever add a suspension upgrade or not.

Regardless of how you ride, you should lean and practice proper approach angle, braking, leaning, steering, apex and acceleration out of a curve. Even if you do not need this skill most of the time. It never hurts to ride like you should. Then, if something unexpected happens. You will be much better positioned and prepared to deal with it.
 
Nanny tapped my brakes twice on really tight turns

You could take that as a warning from the Nanny to slow down, & that will certainly minimise the incidence of Nanny intervention like that, but she's responding to a whole range of input from a heap of sensors that are telling her a helluva lot about the ongoing dynamics of your Spyder & its cornering that are ganging up RIGHT NOW to tell her you aren't doing enough other stuff at that speed to make it around that corner with sufficient leeway for safety if anything changes!! :shocked:

So if the Nanny is doing that, speed is just one thing that she's checking, so like Ron says above, practice good ryding skills all the time & see what else you can change to improve things in your favour?!? How about if you check how much steering you've got dialed in; are you pushing into the realms of over-steer?? Fitting better tires than the Kendas (not bloody hard to do at all!) tires with stiffer sidewalls & less tire squirm will take more speed & 'less than ideal' loading to get that much squirm; while fitting a stiffer anti-sway bar (like BajaRon's) will keep the Spyder more level & avoid quite so much tire squirm quite so early. Similarly, getting more of your weight across the Spyder so it's down & inside the Spyder's CoG will minimise that too; as will less 'push' on the outside handlebar & more 'pull' on the inside bar, all helping to get your weight inside & down on any turn, as well as ensuring that your muscles 'interaction' with the Spyder & its suspension is lower & inside with relation to the Spyder's Roll Centre on that corner. And there's a heap more to consider & maybe change or improve once you really start looking critically at what's going on & being reported to the Nanny!

But without going into it all in too much more detail, if you want to ryde harder, dropping your SPEED is not the only way to minimise Nanny intervention. As others have said, learn to be as smooth as you can in all your ryding & control inputs; fit proper tires instead of the crappy Kendas (IMO, doing that alone will likely make almost as big an improvement as fitting Ron's Bar, which can make a substantial improvement!); fit that better anti-sway bar; learn to get & keep your weight across to the inside of any corner & down as low as you can as soon as you can; use the minimum amount of steering input necessary to make a given turn (cos just one degree too much can trigger Nanny intervention!) & learn the Nanny's limits for how much steering &/or throttle input she'll accept at whatever speed for whatever turn; if you feel you need more steering input on any given turn, try pulling harder on the inside bar (& NOT pushing away on the outside bar, the 'equal & opposite force' thing makes that transfer of weight & force happen in entirely the wrong place & direction & that upsets the Nanny PDQ!) and practice getting more of your weight across to the inside of the corner & down! Try the trailing brake thing, not actually slowing but applying just enough to let the Nanny know you are there & on it already if things go wrong; try smoothly feeding in throttle input on the way out, but learn how & when it's safe to do that without making Nanny sit up & complain! Work out what you can do using OTHER control inputs, your body weight, & anything else you have any degree of control over - if you want to ride your Spyder hard it becomes a 'whole of body' experience to get the absolute best out of your Spyder!! And while the 'real' skilled two wheel riders on well prepared bikes don't have anything much to worry about, the local 'wannabees' in my part of the world now know that without any doubts, even just 'good' practices from an old fart like me on a Spyder with 2 front wheels steering & braking plus the Nanny keeping an eye on things is far & away better than their absobloodylute best they can put up on anything with only two wheels!! :thumbup:

But if you don't want to do all that, your Spyder can still be the greatest provider of 'Miles of Smiles' without you having to work too hard at it at all. You get out of it what you are prepared to put in - you want to go faster & harder, then you need to work a bit harder at it; but if you don't want to do all that, you can still have a great ryde without getting that heavily involved! :yes:
 
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You could take that as a warning from the Nanny to slow down, & that will certainly minimise the incidence of Nanny intervention like that, but she's responding to a whole range of input from a heap of sensors that are telling her a helluva lot about the ongoing dynamics of your Spyder & its cornering that are ganging up RIGHT NOW to tell her you aren't doing enough other stuff at that speed to make it around that corner with sufficient leeway for safety if anything changes!! :shocked:

So if the Nanny is doing that, speed is just one thing that she's checking, so like Ron says above, practice good ryding skills all the time & see what else you can change to improve things in your favour?!? How about if you check how much steering you've got dialed in; are you pushing into the realms of over-steer?? Fitting better tires than the Kendas (not bloody hard to do at all!) tires with stiffer sidewalls & less tire squirm will take more speed & 'less than ideal' loading to get that much squirm; while fitting a stiffer anti-sway bar (like BajaRon's) will keep the Spyder more level & avoid quite so much tire squirm quite so early. Similarly, getting more of your weight across the Spyder so it's down & inside the Spyder's CoG will minimise that too; as will less 'push' on the outside handlebar & more 'pull' on the inside bar, all helping to get your weight inside & down on any turn, as well as ensuring that your muscles 'interaction' with the Spyder & its suspension is lower & inside with relation to the Spyder's Roll Centre on that corner. And there's a heap more to consider & maybe change or improve once you really start looking critically at what's going on & being reported to the Nanny!

But without going into it all in too much more detail, if you want to ryde harder, dropping your SPEED is not the only way to minimise Nanny intervention. As others have said, learn to be as smooth as you can in all your ryding & control inputs; fit proper tires instead of the crappy Kendas (IMO, doing that alone will likely make almost as big an improvement as fitting Ron's Bar, which can make a substantial improvement!); fit that better anti-sway bar; learn to get & keep your weight across to the inside of any corner & down as low as you can as soon as you can; use the minimum amount of steering input necessary to make a given turn (cos just one degree too much can trigger Nanny intervention!) & learn the Nanny's limits for how much steering &/or throttle input she'll accept at whatever speed for whatever turn; if you feel you need more steering input on any given turn, try pulling harder on the inside bar (& NOT pushing away on the outside bar, the 'equal & opposite force' thing makes that transfer of weight & force happen in entirely the wrong place & direction & that upsets the Nanny PDQ!) and practice getting more of your weight across to the inside of the corner & down! Try the trailing brake thing, not actually slowing but applying just enough to let the Nanny know you are there & on it already if things go wrong; try smoothly feeding in throttle input on the way out, but learn how & when it's safe to do that without making Nanny sit up & complain! Work out what you can do using OTHER control inputs, your body weight, & anything else you have any degree of control over - if you want to ride your Spyder hard it becomes a 'whole of body' experience to get the absolute best out of your Spyder!! And while the 'real' skilled two wheel riders on well prepared bikes don't have anything much to worry about, the local 'wannabees' in my part of the world now know that without any doubts, even just 'good' practices from an old fart like me on a Spyder with 2 front wheels steering & braking plus the Nanny keeping an eye on things is far & away better than their absobloodylute best they can put up on anything with only two wheels!! :thumbup:

But if you don't want to do all that, your Spyder can still be the greatest provider of 'Miles of Smiles' without you having to work too hard at it at all. You get out of it what you are prepared to put in - you want to go faster & harder, then you need to work a bit harder at it; but if you don't want to do all that, you can still have a great ryde without getting that heavily involved! :yes:

Very well said. This is how I describe controlled aggressive riding on my F3-S in one sentence: "I ride my F3-S (se) like a high performance snowmobile on well groomed trail, with smooth throttle control!" IMPORTANT: I don't try/expect to to stay with good (or foolish?) 2-wheel sport bike riders in high speed "S" curves. (Machine can't/won't do it so be safe and don't even try.) On the other hand: On "sub 60 mph. roads/speeds", I've found I can drive this Spyder both quicker & safer than I could ever have driven my sport bikes. (Also more relaxed with less "concentration & no stress.") FWIW: I've yet to experience "nanny" while driving like this, so the ECU must sense I'm "doing it right." (Very impressive "artificial intelligence" on the new F3 S I might add!)

Note: Been riding snowmobiles and motorcycles for about 40 years. (only a few weeks on Spyder)
 
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We both stress at work. For us going on a Spyder ride is time for relaxation, not wondering if this is the time the nanny doesn't work. We have ridden many roads that weve been on before, and it always amazes us of the sights that we missed in our cage. For us it's about living in our environment not seeing how fast we can get through it. Just my two cents.

I could not agree more! Going and returning on a recent long trip my buddy complained I was going the speed limit. I told him its about the scenery or the ride and not the destination. If I'm in a hurry why take the bike? I could just jump into my car and "get there". Going fast through the curves is ok from time to time but for me I just like to kick back and watch.....
 
Absolutely! Hard parts can improve how the Spyder handles. But the rider is still the most important component of all. Upgrades cannot fully compensate for bad driving habits. Nor should any on board computer be expected to bail you out of every situation. Take control of your ride and ride it correctly. Everything will go much better if you do. Whether you ever add a suspension upgrade or not.

Regardless of how you ride, you should lean and practice proper approach angle, braking, leaning, steering, apex and acceleration out of a curve. Even if you do not need this skill most of the time. It never hurts to ride like you should. Then, if something unexpected happens. You will be much better positioned and prepared to deal with it.

I admit I was a skeptic but the BajaRon sway bar and metal links improved my ride quality by a large margin.
 
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