Advantages/Disadvantages of Auto or manual Transmissions?

[MidLifeCrisis]

I love the SE5, never have to think about whether I am in 1st gear at a stop light, just hit the throttle and go.

That's definitely one of the advantages. The other is hill starts with a fully loaded machine.

 

[SpyderFun]

Maintenance Manual Reference for Charging @ 4k RPMs

Your shop manual must be a lot different than mine. Everything I have says only that the magneto output at 4,000 rpm is about half the rated wattage. That is sufficient to charge the battery, unless you have a lot of accessories. The reason they use a magneto (permanent magnet alternator) is that it charges at a lower rpm and is heat resistant.

Hey Scotty, with respect, here is my reference:

2010 - 2011
Spyder
Can-Am Roadster
Shop Manual
Spyder RT
(pn: 219 100 536)


Section 05: ELECTRICAL
SubSection 04: CHARGING SYSTEM

INSPECTION
Charging System Output
DC Voltage Output Test
Found on page 460

Step 5: Check Static Voltage. It should be minimum 12.6Vdc
NOTE: TABLE on page 464 "Battery" > "Battery No Load Voltage Test (No Load Applied)" also states a fully charged battery is 12.6 Vdc.
Step 6: Start Engine
Step 7: Load electrical system by turning ON
-Headlights on hi-beam
-Front heated grips to high
Step 8: Read Voltage
TABLE STATES:
-Test Engine Speed 4000 RPM
-Voltage 13.0 - 14 Vdc
NOTE: The "DC Current Output Test", page 460-461, states that the load should be a minimum of 10 A at this time see TABLE on page 461


So, if you are running at 4k rpms you would have a minimum of 0.4Vdc to 1.4 Vdc charge to the battery thus ensuring your battery remains fully charged while riding (no-worries).
This should be a minimum rpm given PMG type chargers are more efficient at a higher rpm thereby generating a stronger magnetic field. This is why BRP has you run the rpm @ at least 4k for test purposes because (IMHO) PMGs suck at providing a strong magnetic field for producing power at lower rpms.

What does your manual say?

 

[SpyderFun]

...Personally I think it's very wise to use it, because in the case of an "emergency' shut down would be as simple as a reflex....instead of the fog of panic.

:agree:

Once adrenaline kicks in during an emergency...its all about training and reflexes after that!

 

[NancysToy]

Hey Scotty, with respect, here is my reference:

So, if you are running at 4k rpms you would have a minimum of 0.4Vdc to 1.4 Vdc charge to the battery thus ensuring your battery remains fully charged while riding (no-worries).
This should be a minimum rpm given PMG type chargers are more efficient at a higher rpm thereby generating a stronger magnetic field. This is why BRP has you run the rpm @ at least 4k for test purposes because (IMHO) PMGs suck at providing a strong magnetic field for producing power at lower rpms.

What does your manual say?

All it does here is state the voltage provided through the regulator at 4,000 rpm...for test purposes. The voltage itsef does not indicate the state of battery charging, as long as it is more than the battery voltage at that time. The 4K is just a reference point...not a minimum rpm. The Spyder will be putting out sufficient voltage to charge the battery even at idle, as long as the charging warning light is not lit. It will not charge fast at idle, though. To get a decent amount of charging wattage (voltage x amperage) you need to get the rpms up...but not necessarily above 4K, depending on the state of charge of the battery and the battery load.

 

[SpyderFun]

All it does here is state the voltage provided through the regulator at 4,000 rpm...for test purposes. The voltage itsef does not indicate the state of battery charging, as long as it is more than the battery voltage at that time. The 4K is just a reference point...not a minimum rpm. The Spyder will be putting out sufficient voltage to charge the battery even at idle, as long as the charging warning light is not lit. It will not charge fast at idle, though. To get a decent amount of charging wattage (voltage x amperage) you need to get the rpms up...but not necessarily above 4K, depending on the state of charge of the battery and the battery load.

What "reference" are you referring to?

I believe BRP chose the 4k rpm to "test" the charging system because anything less would not produce a voltage above the static 12.6 the battery produces thus you would only measure battery voltage and not charge voltage. And with everything turned ON, the battery is in a constant discharge state at idle rpm.

Thoughts?


-Mike
<Sent using Tapatalk>

 

[arntufun]

I'm a little late to the party but rest assured the SM by far is much better than the SE and I 'll tell you why .........


With the SM you do not need a parking brake, you just leave it in gear. What happens when you forget to constantly adjust your SE parking brake and your beloved SE Spyder rolls down the hill and crashes into something because it remains in neutral while stopped ????? Thats right, your insurance will total it, insurance rates will rise, you might get sued and you will end up getting a SM anyway. :thumbup:

For one reason or another this was forgotten and ignored "conveniently" by fellow SE owners. :roflblack::joke:

 

[ARtraveler]

:agree: with arntu about the SM and the parking brake. (Sorry arntu). The footbrake on the RS was and is a PIA to set, adjust, and keep operating as needed. The parking brake was always being overapplied and resulted in me having to adjust it regularly. No such problem with my SM5. I never used the parking brake and just left it in gear.

 

[SpyderFun]

The SE has a push button parking brake that if not engaged will sound an audible alarm with the key turned to OFF. Makes "forgetting to set it" somewhat impossible unless you are deaf. I have not had to adjust the parking brake on my 2010 RTS SE5 since purchase.


-Mike
<Sent using Tapatalk>

 

[ARtraveler]

The parking brakes on the RT's are e-brakes. No foot actuated parking brake involved here. Not sure what they did beyond 2009 on the RS's though. My 2008 and 2009 had the foot actuated parking brakes, and the 2009 SE5 had the alarm as mentioned above.

 

[Bob Ledford]

Old timers view point

First, I never piloted a manual shift Spyder. But I can tell you all about the SE-5 or at least my view point of one.

In a nutshell "I love it" like every thing mechanical there are +\_'s. The electronic shifter works well. It does not miss a shift on the up side and you don't have to wonder where your at in the shift pattern at a red light if you doze off for a second or two. You can still load the engine down but not to the point of stall out. You don't have to worry with lubricating the cable every time you turn around.

You have to put up with the auto down shifting engine reving up unless your shifting manually using the down shift function. If you are slightly spadix like I am you have to use both hands to get reverse to work. But I go forward more then I go backwards so who cares? I don't!

The biggest complaints I have is the semiautomatic clutch is to noisesy IMO and that bugs me some of the time. The high rev shifting points are so much smoother that it is not worth complaining about. You get used to t and enjoy the ride and keep that thumb an index finger moving like the traffic around you is.

 

[NancysToy]

..... You don't have to worry with lubricating the cable every time you turn around. .....

Modern motorcycles don't have cable operated clutches anymore. They are hydraulic.

 

[Illinois Boy]

The biggest complaints I have is the semiautomatic clutch is to noisesy IMO and that bugs me some of the time. The high rev shifting points are so much smoother that it is not worth complaining about. You get used to t and enjoy the ride and keep that thumb an index finger moving like the traffic around you is.

No offense Bob, but if your Spyder is still "clunking" when shifting... you may still be shifting at too low of RPM's; or simply not smoothly pulling on the paddle while holding the throttle steady (do not accelerate while shifting - just hold it steady).

I rarely ever hear a clunk-sound on mine when shifting. It is very smooth -- but not so if I do it wrong. If you are at Spyderfest, I'll show you...

First gear and reverse, however, always clunk...:sour:

 

[SpyderFun]

No offense Bob, but if your Spyder is still "clunking" when shifting... you may still be shifting at too low of RPM's; or simply not smoothly pulling on the paddle while holding the throttle steady (do not accelerate while shifting - just hold it steady).

I rarely ever hear a clunk-sound on mine when shifting. It is very smooth -- but not so if I do it wrong. If you are at Spyderfest, I'll show you...

First gear and reverse, however, always clunk...:sour:

Also check you oil level. Mine started to make more "noise" then usual and it turned out the oil level was low. I serviced it and shifting went back to being quiet.

 

[vtspyder]

I'm a little late to the party but rest assured the SM by far is much better than the SE and I 'll tell you why .........


With the SM you do not need a parking brake, you just leave it in gear. What happens when you forget to constantly adjust your SE parking brake and your beloved SE Spyder rolls down the hill and crashes into something because it remains in neutral while stopped ????? Thats right, your insurance will total it, insurance rates will rise, you might get sued and you will end up getting a SM anyway. :thumbup:

For one reason or another this was forgotten and ignored "conveniently" by fellow SE owners. :roflblack::joke:

too funny...but...sorta not. That's the only thing about my wife's SE5 that drives me bonkers. I'm so used to just getting off my SM and leaving it in gear never setting the brake. Every time I move and get off the wife's bike, turn it off there is this ridiculous beeping sound because I didn't set the P brake. :cus::cus::cus:! But, who am I to complain? She loves the thing and we get to spend time together. Small price to pay for a "happy wifey"!:yes:Her and her SE5.......That's just silly!

 

[vtspyder]

The brakes on the RT's are e-brakes. No foot brake involved here. Not sure what they did beyond 2009 on the RS's though. My 2008 and 2009 had the footbrakes, and the 2009 SE5 had the alarm as mentioned above.

Ahhh, foot brakes! I miss those days.:joke:

 

[Kratos]

The engine STOP switch. BRP even suggests it be used to stop the engine before turning the key off. It's a good habit to get into, and may, save your bacon.

What's a scenario where this will save you?

 

[NancysToy]

What's a scenario where this will save you?

Obviously you have never had a machine where the throttle stuck or the clutch disengagement (cable or hydraulic) failed. The idea is to be able to shut off the engine without (dangerously) removing your hands from the handlebars.

 

[Kratos]

Obviously you have never had a machine where the throttle stuck or the clutch disengagement (cable or hydraulic) failed. The idea is to be able to shut off the engine without (dangerously) removing your hands from the handlebars.

Lol....is it that obvious? :yikes:

 

[vtspyder]

What's a scenario where this will save you?

It's a heck of a lot safer and easier than trying to reach over and turning the key off. Every nano second counts when it hits the fan! That button can be spanked in a half a second or less. Lot harder to get to the key if wide open throttle and all :cus:'s breaking loose!

 

[Rockwall]

Drop and pop x2!