Adding oil...

[Roadster Renovations]

Let the fans cycle a few times so that you know you are at the correct temp. I have an oil change on my F3 probably in a few weeks (3k service) and I plan on adding 5 qts. with the filter change and checking it stone cold without running. Then starting it up and going to warm up and checking it then. In theory, this will give me a cold location and a hot location on the DS. I would do it now, but not sure it has the right amount of oil in it. I'll try to post a couple of pictures of both levels on the DS...

 

[BajaRon]

Let the fans cycle a few times so that you know you are at the correct temp. I have an oil change on my F3 probably in a few weeks (3k service) and I plan on adding 5 qts. with the filter change and checking it stone cold without running. Then starting it up and going to warm up and checking it then. In theory, this will give me a cold location and a hot location on the DS. I would do it now, but not sure it has the right amount of oil in it. I'll try to post a couple of pictures of both levels on the DS...

I would run it for at least 60 seconds or until you have oil pressure (which should be less than 60 seconds). Otherwise you'll have voids in the system that would normally be filled by oil at all times. 60 seconds will not heat the oil any significant amount and you won't have any empty spaces throwing off your COLD measurement.

 

[Capt. Bob]

Changing/Adding Oil is Tricky With These 1330's

This past month, it was time to do my annual oil change on my 2015 F3S Spyder. When I had bought the trike, the selling dealer had done the oil and tire change because the trike had 6k miles on it. I had looked at Lamonster's video several times along with some others and had even bought a 36mm wrench to make removal of the oil filter canister top simple.

What I found in the original poster's dilemma is that with the various places that Can-Am devised for holding oil for the 1330 Rotax, getting an accurate reading and determining just how much to put in can be a real pain in the neck. I personally prefer to have my oil levels on my motorcycles right in the middle between min and max so as to not get blowby into the recirculating systems of these machines. What I encountered with my 1330 is that determining what the precise fill level is is not as simple as it appears? I seemed to have gone up to the Max bump on the dipstick and possibly a millimeter more and I was not comfortable with the condition. So, I pulled the clutch-side drain plug, measured the oil that came out which was about 910ml and then added back in about half that amount with more fresh oil to get the oil level to show half way up the min-max on the dipstick. What a great machine with such a convoluted scheme for oil changes. It is no wonder that dealerships are routinely overfilling these things because they may not have gotten out the maximum amount of oil at drain time and therefore can tend to overfill if they follow BRP's updated fill suggestions. Coupled with that issue is the fact that the oil plumbing is relatively complex and requires a petroleum engineer to properly refill these things:gaah:

I must say thanks to BajaRon as well for suggesting the cold temp test procedure of running the engine to get any of the oil galleries full of oil before checking the oil level cold. BTW, while changing out my oil, I replaced the stock oil bolts with Gold Plugs that give me much greater confidence moving forward in not stripping out the bolts and additionally having a magnetic pickup for the "crankcase" bolt.

 

[WackyDan]

This past month, it was time to do my annual oil change on my 2015 F3S Spyder. When I had bought the trike, the selling dealer had done the oil and tire change because the trike had 6k miles on it. I had looked at Lamonster's video several times along with some others and had even bought a 36mm wrench to make removal of the oil filter canister top simple.

What I found in the original poster's dilemma is that with the various places that Can-Am devised for holding oil for the 1330 Rotax, getting an accurate reading and determining just how much to put in can be a real pain in the neck. I personally prefer to have my oil levels on my motorcycles right in the middle between min and max so as to not get blowby into the recirculating systems of these machines. What I encountered with my 1330 is that determining what the precise fill level is is not as simple as it appears? I seemed to have gone up to the Max bump on the dipstick and possibly a millimeter more and I was not comfortable with the condition. So, I pulled the clutch-side drain plug, measured the oil that came out which was about 910ml and then added back in about half that amount with more fresh oil to get the oil level to show half way up the min-max on the dipstick. What a great machine with such a convoluted scheme for oil changes. It is no wonder that dealerships are routinely overfilling these things because they may not have gotten out the maximum amount of oil at drain time and therefore can tend to overfill if they follow BRP's updated fill suggestions. Coupled with that issue is the fact that the oil plumbing is relatively complex and requires a petroleum engineer to properly refill these things:gaah:

I must say thanks to BajaRon as well for suggesting the cold temp test procedure of running the engine to get any of the oil galleries full of oil before checking the oil level cold. BTW, while changing out my oil, I replaced the stock oil bolts with Gold Plugs that give me much greater confidence moving forward in not stripping out the bolts and additionally having a magnetic pickup for the "crankcase" bolt.

I keep an oil/auto fluid vac in the garage. Typically use it for changing oil in my lawn equipment. That made removing oil from the dip tube far easier than cracking one of the drain plugs.

The lesson i learned is, once it is overfilled, even if by a tiny amount (which likely won't hurt anything), you have to remove quite a bit of oil to get her to register properly on the dip again. That meant sucking out some oil... Going for a spirited ride... Coming back, checking oil... sucking out more, going for another ride... Etc. Was a pain, but I'm happy to say I got it right on my first oil change.

 

[Wildrice]

Nope ---- where the OIL comes out --- the OIL goes back in ..... Soooooooooooooo yes you have to turn the Spyder over to do this :gaah:.......This is why most owner's take it to the dealer ....................:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: ....Mike :thumbup:

Mike,
Your disgusting--that's what I really like about you:clap:.
Darrell