• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Accuracy of Gas Gauge Improving

Knarfoh

New member
2012 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SM5 - The first year I owned my Spyder, I noticed that I (and others) complained about the accuracy of the fuel gauge, i.e. reading low when there was still plenty of fuel; the needle bouncing around on the gauge; etc.

This is now nearing the end of my 4th year of riding (in Ohio - so usually put away for the winter in October, sometimes November) and I can honestly say the fuel gauge has become more accurate over time. The bouncing is completely gone and it reads much more accurately the remaining amount of fuel in my tanks.

Not sure how fuel gauges actually work, but does it make sense it works MUCH better then when my Spyder was new? Just wondered if anyone else noticed the phenomenon?

Posted this more out of curiosity then anything!
 
I removed the analog gauges from my 2012 a long time ago and the digital gauges seemed to be accurate from the git go.

JT
 
2012 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SM5 - The first year I owned my Spyder, I noticed that I (and others) complained about the accuracy of the fuel gauge, i.e. reading low when there was still plenty of fuel; the needle bouncing around on the gauge; etc.

This is now nearing the end of my 4th year of riding (in Ohio - so usually put away for the winter in October, sometimes November) and I can honestly say the fuel gauge has become more accurate over time. The bouncing is completely gone and it reads much more accurately the remaining amount of fuel in my tanks.

Not sure how fuel gauges actually work, but does it make sense it works MUCH better then when my Spyder was new? Just wondered if anyone else noticed the phenomenon?

Posted this more out of curiosity then anything!


Are you absolutely certain your dealer didn't replace your old analog fuel gauge with the new & improved stepper motor version?
They look identical.
 
I'm not sure how a gauge can "learn" to become more accurate... :shocked:
But the one in my 2014 RT-L is the most accurate fuel gauge that I've ever had... in ANY vehicle! nojoke
I can run the bike down to where the "low fuel' light starts to flicker... and put in 5.5 gallons!
 

According to "Hoyle" the bottom half goes a lot faster than the top half. Am I right or am I right?

Jack
 
Here's the thing..!!

perhaps the sending unit is getting gummed up and slowing down. Hence no bouncing and reading slower but will it eventually stop....:roflblack: just a thought....
 
I'm not sure how a gauge can "learn" to become more accurate... :shocked:
But the one in my 2014 RT-L is the most accurate fuel gauge that I've ever had... in ANY vehicle! nojoke
I can run the bike down to where the "low fuel' light starts to flicker... and put in 5.5 gallons!

:agree: I just ran mine down to the low fuel light came on and added a few more miles before I stopped for gas..It took 5.5 gallons to refill..Gauge seems right on to me..This is on a 2014 RT
 
The gauges have come a long way since 2010, I went through 3 on my 2010 before finally disconnecting it but the gauge on the 2014 is great.
 
The gauges have come a long way since 2010, I went through 3 on my 2010 before finally disconnecting it but the gauge on the 2014 is great.

:agree: After two gauges on the 2010 I switched over to digital. They are much more accurate. We did not like the gauges moving all over the place when riding either. Linda had me change hers out the first day when she got the 2011.

Also agree that the analog gauge on the 2014 is great. No change out there. We still set the A trip to zero at each fill up--so I know exactly how many miles on the tank. Between the gas gauge and the A meter, we don't ride worrying about running out of gas. :yes:
 
On my 2013 RT sometimes after filling up I can go 20 miles and the guage will read 3/4..... That is 20 miles and 1/4 tank!!!! The guage is almost useless. :banghead: Where can I get this digital guage you speak of? How difficult is it to install?
 
On my 2013 RT sometimes after filling up I can go 20 miles and the guage will read 3/4..... That is 20 miles and 1/4 tank!!!! The guage is almost useless. :banghead: Where can I get this digital guage you speak of? How difficult is it to install?

If you fill to the same level each time--you will have a more accurate reading. I keep the hose OUT of the tank and bring it near the ring at the top of the tank. When I see the gas coming up, I stop the fill right at the ring. It will go down about an inch and I refill to the ring one more time. Do not overfill the ring, you can get gas in your canister. Bad fumes, etc.

Good news! You already have the digital gauge. To make it operational, you need to remove the front gauge panel--about 4 to 6 screws. Pull and tape the wiring from BOTH the gas gauge and the temperature gauge. The digital gauges will fire up on your main control panel. You will now have bars. It is imperative that you disable BOTH the gas and temperature gauges--it has something to do with the electrics. Some people put the official plug in the gauge holes--others replace with other gauges--others just leave the dead gauges in place. :thumbup:
 
Last edited:
:agree: Developing a consistent re-fueling technique is a good thing... :thumbup:
And "AK" has pointed you toward the location of the hidden digital gauges already. :clap:
 

According to "Hoyle" the bottom half goes a lot faster than the top half. Am I right or am I right?

Jack

Jack,
That's only because the closer that it gets to the bottom; the more you find yourself looking at it... and worrying! :shocked:
Particularly if you're riding nekkid; it's a long walk back to Town, if you're doing your best "Full-Monty" imitation.:roflblack:
 
If you fill to the same level each time--you will have a more accurate reading. I keep the hose OUT of the tank and bring it near the ring at the top of the tank. When I see the gas coming up, I stop the fill right at the ring. It will go down about an inch and I refill to the ring one more time. Do not overfill the ring, you can get gas in your canister. Bad fumes, etc.

Good news! You already have the digital gauge. To make it operational, you need to remove the front gauge panel--about 4 to 6 screws. Pull and tape the wiring from BOTH the gas gauge and the temperature gauge. The digital gauges will fire up on your main control panel. You will now have bars. It is imperative that you disable BOTH the gas and temperature gauges--it has something to do with the electrics. Some people put the official plug in the gauge holes--others replace with other gauges--others just leave the dead gauges in place. :thumbup:
That is great info!!! Thank you! I always put the gas nozzle in about 2" and fill the tank slowly. When it shuts off I am finished. So I am pretty consistant with my refueling. Where do I get the offical plugs to fill the guage holes, the dealer? Has anyone put usb ports in those holes? Or just 12v outlets? Looks like a good place for them. Thanks again! I will be doing this.
 
If you fill to the same level each time--you will have a more accurate reading. I keep the hose OUT of the tank and bring it near the ring at the top of the tank. When I see the gas coming up, I stop the fill right at the ring. It will go down about an inch and I refill to the ring one more time. Do not overfill the ring, you can get gas in your canister. Bad fumes, etc.

Good news! You already have the digital gauge. To make it operational, you need to remove the front gauge panel--about 4 to 6 screws. Pull and tape the wiring from BOTH the gas gauge and the temperature gauge. The digital gauges will fire up on your main control panel. You will now have bars. It is imperative that you disable BOTH the gas and temperature gauges--it has something to do with the electrics. Some people put the official plug in the gauge holes--others replace with other gauges--others just leave the dead gauges in place. :thumbup:
Another, question. Does the electronic temp guage read any differently or more accurately?
 
the one in my 2014 RT-L is the most accurate fuel gauge that I've ever had... I can run the bike down to where the "low fuel' light starts to flicker... and put in 5.5 gallons!

With only 2200 miles on my RTL. I'm not that brave. All I need to do is run outta gas with my wife on the back. We usually stop between 150-160 miles anyhow. Usually have 1.5 gallons left in the tank.
 
Back
Top