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A whopping 3 miles

kentuckyguy

New member
We got our new 2011 Rt this afternnon.. Trailered it home, unloaded an we over to a friends house 2 miles away.. Shut it off an it kept cranking until the battery went dead.. Tried to junp start it but everytime we would hook cables to it, it would start cranking even witht he key off.. We disconnected the battery.. We an got my truck an trailer so we could load it back up an take it back to the dealer in the morning.. Bad thing is we were suppose to leave town in the morning for the week.... Guess not now...
 
We got our new 2011 Rt this afternnon.. Trailered it home, unloaded an we over to a friends house 2 miles away.. Shut it off an it kept cranking until the battery went dead.. Tried to junp start it but everytime we would hook cables to it, it would start cranking even witht he key off.. We disconnected the battery.. We an got my truck an trailer so we could load it back up an take it back to the dealer in the morning.. Bad thing is we were suppose to leave town in the morning for the week.... Guess not now...

Maybe a bad starter relay? If so that should be a quick fix. Hope it is!
 
Pulled the prestart relay an it still done the same thing.....

It would be the starter relay itself. Sorry, not familiar enough with the Spyder starting system to know how that is set up. I'd charge the battery up (be sure to use an AGM charger or you'll ruin your battery). That way if it's a quick fix at the dealer you've got a battery ready to go.
 
There is no separate fuse. The starter solenoid is connected directly to the battery. You did the right thing. So sorry it ruined your plans. I have not heard of this particular failure on a Spyder before, if it is any consolation. Hope your dealer can make it right ASAP.
 
There is no separate fuse. The starter solenoid is connected directly to the battery. You did the right thing. So sorry it ruined your plans. I have not heard of this particular failure on a Spyder before, if it is any consolation. Hope your dealer can make it right ASAP.

Yes, but is there not a relay in the mix there somewhere? If the relay gets stuck on then you would get this problem.
 
It would be the starter relay itself. Sorry, not familiar enough with the Spyder starting system to know how that is set up. I'd charge the battery up (be sure to use an AGM charger or you'll ruin your battery). That way if it's a quick fix at the dealer you've got a battery ready to go.

Ron, you say use an AGM charger...?? I have been using a Battery Tender...I guess I did not know there is a "AGM charger". More info please. Am I ruining my new 2011 battery? I hope this starter problem is fixed soon.

:spyder2:
 
Yes, but is there not a relay in the mix there somewhere? If the relay gets stuck on then you would get this problem.

I follow what both of you are saying an agree with you both... I know on a car that the POS battery cable goes straight to the starter an a remote wire is connected to the starert as well... The remote wire would probably be the one with the relay attached to it but dont know where that relay would be... I think the selanoid is stuck on the starter..

I dought they will have a new starter in stock for the bike but am hopeing that they will take the starter off the 09 RS that I just traded in so I can get on the rodd for my trip....
 
The solenoid contacts could be either welded closed or mechanically stuck in the closed position. If you pull F12, the pre-starting relay fuse, and still cranks then it's definitely a defective solenoid.
 
Just Curious

Hey Kentuckyguy,
Very sorry to hear about your troubles. I'm just curious, did you get your Spyder from Paducah?? Hope you get her up and running. I don't have one yet, so I'm no help at all......YET

Farmerjim
Sikeston,Mo
 
Hey Kentuckyguy,
Very sorry to hear about your troubles. I'm just curious, did you get your Spyder from Paducah?? Hope you get her up and running. I don't have one yet, so I'm no help at all......YET

Farmerjim
Sikeston,Mo

Yes.. This is the 2nd one that I have bought from them...
 
We got our new 2011 Rt this afternnon.. Trailered it home, unloaded an we over to a friends house 2 miles away.. Shut it off an it kept cranking until the battery went dead.. Tried to junp start it but everytime we would hook cables to it, it would start cranking even witht he key off.. We disconnected the battery.. We an got my truck an trailer so we could load it back up an take it back to the dealer in the morning.. Bad thing is we were suppose to leave town in the morning for the week.... Guess not now...

Now that just down right sucks!!!!

Chris
 
I follow what both of you are saying an agree with you both... I know on a car that the POS battery cable goes straight to the starter an a remote wire is connected to the starert as well... The remote wire would probably be the one with the relay attached to it but dont know where that relay would be... I think the selanoid is stuck on the starter..

I dought they will have a new starter in stock for the bike but am hopeing that they will take the starter off the 09 RS that I just traded in so I can get on the rodd for my trip....

I don't know what I was thinking with that one. Late nite post I guess. Realized what I'd said as I laid in bed and almost got up to correct my statement.

The Selenoid IS the starter relay. I remember in the old days we'd smack the selenoids on our Chevy's when they got stuck. I'd say a new selenoid is all you're going to need. Sometimes little, relitively bullet proof things can give you fits. Hope they have one on the shelf. If not I would strongly suggest having them take one off a show room model. You paid for a running, functioning Spyder and they need to make that happen.
 
I don't know what I was thinking with that one. Late nite post I guess. Realized what I'd said as I laid in bed and almost got up to correct my statement.

The Selenoid IS the starter relay. I remember in the old days we'd smack the selenoids on our Chevy's when they got stuck. I'd say a new selenoid is all you're going to need. Sometimes little, relitively bullet proof things can give you fits. Hope they have one on the shelf. If not I would strongly suggest having them take one off a show room model. You paid for a running, functioning Spyder and they need to make that happen.

Got it fixed this morning.. The took the selenoid off my old RS an put it on this one.. They said that they would order me a new one an put a new battery on if it happens again.. As of right now everything is fine..... Thanks for all the help.....
 
Sorry about the problem on your new RTS. Very glad they got it fixed.


BigRed1: I have used the battey tenders on all three of my :spyder2:'s. No problems or damage to my batteries. It goes on in October and comes off at first ride--this year--Early March.
 
Got it fixed this morning.. The took the selenoid off my old RS an put it on this one.. They said that they would order me a new one an put a new battery on if it happens again.. As of right now everything is fine..... Thanks for all the help.....

OUTSTANDING! Really glad it went well. Not that it should have happened in the 1st place but stuff does happen.

Here is wishing you many care-free miles and a huge amount of FUN on your new Spyder! :thumbup:
 
Hey Kentuckyguy,
Very sorry to hear about your troubles. I'm just curious, did you get your Spyder from Paducah?? Hope you get her up and running. I don't have one yet, so I'm no help at all......YET

Farmerjim
Sikeston,Mo
Come on down to Cuba I just left my 09 RS SE5 with them to be sold. She's red with Hardside saddle bags, comfort hand grips, highway foot pegs( Koriacan) extra red led lites in the rear end. Leds at the bottom of the mud flaps flash when backing up and turning. Only has 15,550 +/- a couple miles. Never had problems with her. Call her my "baby corvette" and will really miss her but want her to go to somebody who will ryde her. She's been sittin in the garage with battery tender and covered for more times than she's been on the road lately:(. Not good for her:sour:. Got the RT and it's a lot more comfortable for my back. Sitting on it is easier for me too. The RS comes with a CUP HOLDER!!!!!:clap: that right there oughta change everybodys mind some!!! Went on a trip to Wi right outa the box towing a BRP trailer toboot. She did great. Then to Gatlinburg and the twistys there. Home again and got the DPS fixed( didn't know there was much of a problem. she hung up a couple times thought that was me screwing up) Sooo now steering
REALLY sensitive and REALLY good!!! I also have this in the FOR SALE forum and just changed the milage on the bike( put in how many miles I have on the TRUCK:opps:my bad)
 
Ron, you say use an AGM charger...?? I have been using a Battery Tender...I guess I did not know there is a "AGM charger". More info please. Am I ruining my new 2011 battery? I hope this starter problem is fixed soon.

:spyder2:

A lot of people are ruining the AGM batteries by using a standard wet cell, lead acid battery charger. I just found out my brother destroyed his FJR battery in less than 2 years doing this. And I think that is why so many are having early battery failures. I got my Spyder in January 08 (and they put a used battery in a brand new, fresh out of the crate Spyder - Don't get me started).

But anyway, I still have not had to replace that battery. But I never put it on anything but my AGM charger.

Many of the tenders have the AGM circuit. But if it doesn't you may be doing yourself (and your battery) harm.
 
But anyway, I still have not had to replace that battery. But I never put it on anything but my AGM charger.

Many of the tenders have the AGM circuit. But if it doesn't you may be doing yourself (and your battery) harm.

Ron, I just have the regular Battery Tender...how do I tell if it is for gel...I never heard of that before. Thanks.
 
But anyway, I still have not had to replace that battery. But I never put it on anything but my AGM charger.

Many of the tenders have the AGM circuit. But if it doesn't you may be doing yourself (and your battery) harm.

Ron, I just have the regular Battery Tender...how do I tell if it is for gel...I never heard of that before. Thanks.

You don't want a GEL charger (which is again, another animal), you want a charger specifically designed to handle AGM batteries. The terms are used interchangably but that is a shame since they are not the same thing.

But don't feel alone, a lot of people are confused about it. I was too, that's why I spent some time researching it. My brother is pretty up on stuff and he didn't know. He would have ruined another AGM battery if I had not said anything to him.

Look at the paperwork that came with your charger or google your tender model on the internet to see if it specs out for AGM. If it does not say AGM then don't use it. Be careful. A newer model of the same unit may say AGM whereas older versions don't have that feature.

Gel batteries take another kind of charge even than the AGM. AGM (Absorbed glass mat) is a hybrid Gel battery and much better for most applications.

Excerpts from Wikipedia - A VRLA battery (valve-regulated lead-acid battery) is the designation for low-maintenance lead-acid rechargeable batteries. Because of their construction, VRLA batteries do not require regular addition of water to the cells. VRLA batteries are commonly further classified as:
  • Absorbed glass mat (AGM) battery
  • Gel battery (gel cell)
Disadvantages
  • Cost. AGM automobile batteries for example, are typically about twice the price of flooded-cell batteries in a given BCI size group.
  • AGM batteries have up to a 10 year lifespan. (this is a disadvantage? Wikipedia needs to re-think this one!)
  • AGM batteries do not tolerate overcharging. Overcharging dissociates the water in the electrolyte, which is unable to be replaced, leading to premature failure.
There are many advantages to AGM batteries, I just copied the disadvantages here.

When they say 'Overcharging' they are actually talking about 2 different events. 1- AGM batteries can not tolerate the higher, continuous voltage rates that normal lead acid battery chargers generate. To correctly charge an AGM battery the charger needs to pulse the current at a slighly lower voltage. 2- AGM batteries can not tolerate the same amount of over charge (above 12 volts) that a normal battery can.

A normal battery charger will charge a battery beyond 12 volts, and that's fine for normal batteries. But if you do that to an AGM battery you will shorten its life.

I have a battery charger that will do all 3 types. Lead Acid, Gel and AGM. Some sense the battery type and will switch automatically to the correct charge cycle. I have to set mine manually.

Hope this helps.
 
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