A Report On MY 2013 Rt

[oldguyinTX]

I picked the RT up from the dealer today. They have replaced the roll-over & purge valves as well as the Oxygen sensor. They also removed the Evap canister & weighed it. It came in at 440 grams, which BRP says is within normal parameters. NHTSA said if it weighed 485 grams or more, it should be replaced. On the way home from the dealer, I wrung the RT out a bit on I-95, and my first impression is that it is running better than it ever has, even when it was new. I stopped on the way once it was fully warmed up & shut it down for ten minutes, then restarted it. No stalling or horrendous gas fumes. Of course, no heat issues as it was 48 degrees as I was riding. That will have to wait until next spring when the temperature rises above 70. The BRP representative called me last night to tell me what had been done, and that he had extensive conversations with both the Owner of the dealership, as well as the technician who actually did the work. Overall, I am very pleased with the results. Weather permitting, I will ride this weekend, & the wife & I are planning a ride to Long Island, NY on Tuesday to tour the North Shore.

I hereby publicly thank BRP for their close coordination with my dealer, their frequent contacts with me, and for making me a happy camper. The BRP representative is going to call me on Monday the 17th just to follow up & get my feedback.

 

[ARtraveler]

Thanks for posting about your outcome. Hope to hear more good news when the higher temps come back. :yes:

 

[cuznjohn]

glad to hear this

 

[Bob Denman]

:congrats: :yes:hyea::yes: :2thumbs:
Glad to hear that things are looking better,

 

[DJFaninTN]

glad they got it finally fixed for you

 

[Magdave]

Seriously ? 48deg ? I only get 2 bars at that temp. Lets face it the Spyder runs great below 60 deg , good below 75 and progressively worse as it warms until the tank starts to boil. Me thinks you are premature in your evaluation. Mine runs the same at 50 deg it is like a different bike. I suspect if the ambient temp sensor helps the fuel map it is running richer and that may account for it. I could never understand why the temp sensor is so near the radiator so in the summer heat it gets heat soaked 5 to 10deg higher than ambient temps which obviously can cause it to run lean. Just like any ECM engine cooler air in means more O2 and more fuel. BRP must have though using a sled setup was good enough for the spyder and did not consider the higher ambient temps it runs in 1/2 the year.

 

[Cruzr Joe]

:congrats: :yes:hyea::yes: :2thumbs:
Glad to hear that things are looking better, View attachment 98604

Bob: your new avatar (ie your photo) is an improvement on your hair style. :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:

Anonymous

 

[Bob Denman]

I combed it that way; just for you! :thumbup: :roflblack:

 

[oldguyinTX]

Seriously ? 48deg ? I only get 2 bars at that temp. Lets face it the Spyder runs great below 60 deg , good below 75 and progressively worse as it warms until the tank starts to boil. Me thinks you are premature in your evaluation. Mine runs the same at 50 deg it is like a different bike. I suspect if the ambient temp sensor helps the fuel map it is running richer and that may account for it. I could never understand why the temp sensor is so near the radiator so in the summer heat it gets heat soaked 5 to 10deg higher than ambient temps which obviously can cause it to run lean. Just like any ECM engine cooler air in means more O2 and more fuel. BRP must have though using a sled setup was good enough for the spyder and did not consider the higher ambient temps it runs in 1/2 the year.

I did mention that I would have to wait until spring when the temps start to climb above 70 to see if the heat problems resurface, which they most likely will. I also said that my first impression was that the :ani29: was running better than ever. We all know that the RT's like cool weather, which is why I ride as late in the fall as I can, and as early in the spring as I can. BTW, when I rode it to the dealer it was 50 degrees & the RT was running like crap. So, in comparison to that, it is running way better. Even the technician who worked on it said it was very much improved.

 

[Magdave]

I did mention that I would have to wait until spring when the temps start to climb above 70 to see if the heat problems resurface, which they most likely will. I also said that my first impression was that the :ani29: was running better than ever. We all know that the RT's like cool weather, which is why I ride as late in the fall as I can, and as early in the spring as I can. BTW, when I rode it to the dealer it was 50 degrees & the RT was running like crap. So, in comparison to that, it is running way better. Even the technician who worked on it said it was very much improved.

How many miles on the clock? O2s can make a big difference. Did you ever run cleaner in your gas? Why did they replace the O2,roll off and purge valve and how did they determine they were bad?How would an owner be able to tell if the purge was bad( other than constant reeking)?:thumbup:

 

[oldguyinTX]

How many miles on the clock? O2s can make a big difference. Did you ever run cleaner in your gas? Why did they replace the O2,roll off and purge valve and how did they determine they were bad?How would an owner be able to tell if the purge was bad( other than constant reeking)?:thumbup:

10,008 miles. I put 1 oz. of Lucas Safeguard Ethanol Fuel Conditioner in the tank at every fill-up, and every 5th fill-up, 6 oz. of SeaFoam. They determined that these parts needed replacing after hooking the :ani29: up to BUDS, which gave them the codes. I don't think that there is any way for an owner to determine what, if any, parts need replacing.

 

[Chupaca]

Great news..!!

glad that you are getting the much needed help from dealer and brp. The best thing is there are noticable improvements to your ryde and hope the repairs done will be what was needed. Have a great ryde to Long Island. Used to ferry to port Jeffeson and drive the shores, its a great ryde...:thumbup:

 

[Magdave]

10,008 miles. I put 1 oz. of Lucas Safeguard Ethanol Fuel Conditioner in the tank at every fill-up, and every 5th fill-up, 6 oz. of SeaFoam. They determined that these parts needed replacing after hooking the :ani29: up to BUDS, which gave them the codes. I don't think that there is any way for an owner to determine what, if any, parts need replacing.

I find that to be part of the problem. If it shows up in BUDS there should be a code tossed so the owners KNOW when something is failing. JMHO It should be part of the fix included in the up coming NHTSA investigation that those "unknown" code be shown to the owner as a "check engine code" with out spending $$$ to get a BUDS read out.

 

[oldguyinTX]

I find that to be part of the problem. If it shows up in BUDS there should be a code tossed so the owners KNOW when something is failing. JMHO It should be part of the fix included in the up coming NHTSA investigation that those "unknown" code be shown to the owner as a "check engine code" with out spending $$$ to get a BUDS read out.

For the record, BRP took full responsibility for everything. Nothing out of pocket for me.

 

[Magdave]

For the record, BRP took full responsibility for everything. Nothing out of pocket for me.

You are still under the first 2yrs of warranty correct? I would expect no less if so. I wonder ( and have said it before) how many purge and rolloff valves are faulty. Yours could not have been that bad if the EVAP canister was under 485g it never had enough flow through to fill it...yet. Do you know how much a new canister weighs?

 

[Bob Denman]

Chicken Dave,
Have you tried moving that temperature sensor to a better location? I'd be guessing; but up in front of the Frunk might be a possible spot... :thumbup:

 

[Magdave]

Chicken Dave,
Have you tried moving that temperature sensor to a better location? I'd be guessing; but up in front of the Frunk might be a possible spot... :thumbup:

Well Bob if you ever had your frunk off, pulled your nacelles off and looked at it you would see why that can't be done easily. Ever seen it? :yikes: I thought not. That is a turkey by the way I am getting ready for Thanksgiving.:thumbup:

 

[oldguyinTX]

WOW

Getting nasty. I was only posting information that may/or may not be beneficial to other folks on this forum. Yes, the :ani29: is still under warranty. And no, I do not know what a new, empty Evap canister weighs, but I'll bet you do. Please let us all know, so we can make a comparison test verses what is on our :ani29:'s. Oh, wait, that would require removal of the canister & the purchase of an accurate scale. Anybody out there got one that you are willing to lend/rent?

 

[Magdave]

Getting nasty. I was only posting information that may/or may not be beneficial to other folks on this forum. Yes, the :ani29: is still under warranty. And no, I do not know what a new, empty Evap canister weighs, but I'll bet you do. Please let us all know, so we can make a comparison test verses what is on our :ani29:'s. Oh, wait, that would require removal of the canister & the purchase of an accurate scale. Anybody out there got one that you are willing to lend/rent?

Just a few grams less than yours. 485g indicates a bit of gas in it. I can understand diagnosing the O2 via Buds but there is a procedure (AFAIK) to check the purge valve, It involves cycling it via buds to verify operation. I wonder how many bad PV's cause gas fumes? The roll over valve just equalizes pressure in the tank AFAIK to prevent hose collapse. All I can say is the cause of the fumes IS the evap system and tank boiling the components seem to be unreliable. No nastiness just joking with Bob the idea of pulling the frunk and nacelles would make him sweat. :roflblack: Besides I am not a chicken I am a turkey for now (see avatar).

 

[SpyderAnn01]

Dave, when the purge valve went on my 13 it had generally run like crap. It wouldn't idle properly, it would stall and then it was hard to restart.