A 2fer: 1> 2012 Shop Manual--Catcha 22--< 2 > common sense oil checking method

[zbunker]

A 2fer: 1> 2012 Shop Manual--Catcha 22--< 2 > common sense oil checking method

Has anyone purchased a 2012 shop manual from the dealer?
I had purchased a 2012 shop manual for my 2012 RT. for $177 :yikes:
When I picked up the book, it was labeled 2010 to 2011. The dealer sez this applies for the 2012.:hun:
Okay, if that is the case you would think BRP would have stuck 2012 on the cover for the dough they charged.
BRP sez there is a 2012--- the dealer sez 2010-2011 is it.
Anyone have any additional input??:gaah:

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CHECKING OIL
And for a different direction.
I found that checking the oil on the scooter is quite a challenge: RT SE5
Run till the engine is warm, run through the gears, shut off and run for 30 sec. then check. ...COOL I find I have to check quick. check more than once, and the level changes.
I measured the depth of the 'pan' to the top of the threaded neck to be 10 1/2 inches.
The Original stick is 4 1/2"
After having an oil change, a cold measurement (over night) was 6 1/2 " Presuming that the dealer gave me a good count.
It would seem to me that a cold check would be a little safer (and accurate) than the called for procedure.
Consider if going through the called for operation you come to find out you have little or no oil:yikes:
I would appreciate any thoughts to any of this stuff.
Thanks, Ron

 

[Farmbanker]

The one I bought online is the same way. Just has extra dealer bulletins and such....probably OK.

 

[Spyderific]

The procedure recommended for checking the oil must be followed to get an accurate reading. These engines use a "dry sump" oiling system. Meaning, it pumps the oil from the oil pan into the oil tank from which it then pumps the oil back into the engine. It is the amount of oil in the tank that we measure. If you do not run the engine as recommended, some of the oil will remain in the oil pan instead of the oil tank where the dipstick is. Running the engine till it is warm allows the oil to expand with the engine heat and be pumped into the oil tank to be measured.

 

[ABQAndy]

I just purchased an electronic, fully searchable, copy of the shop manual for the 2012 RT and it is titled the same. Here is a link, also has lots of extra information. http://www.factoryworkshopmanuals.co...otorcycles.htm

 

[NancysToy]

I'd recommend that you don't deviate from the BRP procedure for checking oil. Failure to do so seems to result in high oil levels and possible oil blow-by into the airbox. Remember that you can't just start the engine and run it until the gauge comes up. It has to be at full operating temperature, and that means the oil and metal temperature, not just the coolant. Best time is after a ride. Also remember that the dipstick must be screwed in all the way, unlike a lot of other vehicles. If the engine has been off for a few minutes, run it again for at least 30 seconds to evacuate any oil that may have leaked to the sump. You can then check the level within the next minute or so. Cold oil levels are actually quite variable, due to ambient temperature differences, so I'd recommend not trying to come up with any conversion.

 

[my3gs]

Yes the 1 i got off Ebay for $12 and is 1500+ pages is 2011and has how many shop HRs to fix some thangs also it is very detailed. Took it to staples to get it printed an was going to b $110:yikes: so i will not print it all there r a lot of blank pages between parts.

 

[zbunker]

the BRP procedure for checking oil.


Hi Scotty,
I get the idea that BRP has a procedure for checking oil levels. But being a 'new guy' to the Spyder world, I can't help to think of a scenario running the scooter to operating temperature having little or no oil in the engine.
My suggestion of making a cold reading (over night ) and getting a reading of 6 1/2 inches, from the bottom of the tank, appears to reflect a full capacity.{The standard dip stick measures 4 1/2 inches from the top and will not reach the oil} (I took this reading after a dealer oil change) Hopefully, they added the correct amount. I understand that overfilling the oil tank can result in all sorts of problems. But then again running on low oil presents its own unique issues.
I took these COLD measurements at various times and came up in the 6 1/2 inch range.

May I suggest Scotty, (Just for Laughs and Giggles) take a cold reading and then take a reading using the prescribed method and see if there is any correlation.
Granted, I have yet to run into a situation where the cold level readings were 'low' - below 6 inches, and had to add oil. I guess I will have to 'burn that bridge' when I come to it.
Ron

I'd recommend that you don't deviate from the BRP procedure for checking oil. Failure to do so seems to result in high oil levels and possible oil blow-by into the airbox. Remember that you can't just start the engine and run it until the gauge comes up. It has to be at full operating temperature, and that means the oil and metal temperature, not just the coolant. Best time is after a ride. Also remember that the dipstick must be screwed in all the way, unlike a lot of other vehicles. If the engine has been off for a few minutes, run it again for at least 30 seconds to evacuate any oil that may have leaked to the sump. You can then check the level within the next minute or so. Cold oil levels are actually quite variable, due to ambient temperature differences, so I'd recommend not trying to come up with any conversion.

 

[Highwayman2013]

I have a 2010 Kawasaki Vulcan Voyager with the same procedure for checking the oil. If you check the oil using the prescribed method and the level is good, then when it is cold check it and see where the oil is on the dip stick. This should tell you the next time before you start the bike where the level should be. Yes I was fooled at first by my Vulcan to overfill, but I did the hot then cold method and now I know before starting if there is enough oil.