9500 service.... $350.00 for an oil change??

[ThreeWheels]

"Admittedly, the oil changes on the 998 were too expensive and too often (three times a season) to make sense"

I am a newbie and I am looking at buying a 2012 Spyder RT-S SM5, so are you saying I have to change the oil three time a season? What does the manual say?

The 2012 998 requires an oil change every 3,000 miles, roughly 3 times a season. Of course if you only drive 3000 miles a year that's only once per season.
The 1330 requires an oil change at 9,300 miles.

 

[GearHd]

I thought BRP bumped out the 998 oil changes to 4600?

 

[WellsboroSpyder]

I agree

I got to go with ThreeWheels on this.
it's a nice 65 miles to the dealer, then I get to watch the world go by, then
a nice ryde home.

The ride to Kurtz Motorsports in Watsontown pa is 69 relaxing miles away. There is a great italian restaurant down the road or Rita's italian ice on the way back home. The wife and I make a date of it. You know, just one of our rides. After all , isn't that why we bought it.

 

[Ex Winger]

After having changed the oil myself, I have an unpopular view.

$350 ? Damn cheap.

It's about $75 for the parts.
That leaves $275 in labor. Figure it takes about 4 hours. Start to finish. Pulling the bike out, getting the tools, set up, breakdown and putting everything away.
First start and run the bike until it's up to operating temperature.
This also includes, figuring out how to raise the spyder, then raising the spyder and blocking it up safely while you are under it.
Removing a few of the plastic panels to get access.
Put a pan in place.
Remove the oil. Don't forget, you'll need to figure out if you have allen wrench plug or torx head plugs. or Both. Then be sure to have the rigt size allen screws or torx bits available. Remove the oil filter. Drain the oil filter. Don't forget the transmission filter, if you have the SE model.
Be careful not to burn yourself while draining the oil.
Collect all the old oil.
Next replace the oil filter and transmission filter if required. Replace the oil plugs, hopefully they weren't stripped when they were removed. If you had the forethought, you should get hex head oil plugs from dimple products, and use the hex head plugs as replacements
Put in the the new oil. Unblock the spyder and take it down to grade, removing any ramps or blocks used to support it.
Turn on the spyder, let it run until the temperature increases to normal.
Check for leaks, tighten up any connections that are found leaking.
Go into limp mode, because the amount of oil is too low.
After the operating temperature is achieved, top off the oil.
Go for a ride of about 20 minutes with the correct oil level to reset the limp mode back to normal.
Dispose of the old oil and clean the pan.
Dispose the rags you used to clean the pan.
Clean and place all the tools back in their storage position.
Dispose the rags you used to clean the tools.
Clean up the floor under the area where you worked.
Dispose the rags you used to clean the floor.
Replace the ramps where you found them.

For all of this time and effort, you've saved about $250, that's roughly $60 an hour. You were also unable to do anything else during that 4 hours. like mow the lawn or make love to your wife, or even watch Netflix.
Oh, and after you've done this work, you've merely changed your oil.
You have not:
Checked the condition and tightness of the front and rear drive sprocket
Checked the belt tension
Checked belt alignment
Checked condition of tires and brakes.
Did not connect the ECM to buds to review potential performance issues
Did not download any potential firmware updates/performance enhancements.
Did not review any technical bulletins/recalls for product upgrades.

Admittedly, the oil changes on the 998 were too expensive and too often (three times a season) to make sense.
The oil changes for the 1330 are once a season, and I'm way OK paying my dealer for the work. Of course I trust my dealer implicitly.
If you don't trust your dealer, all bets are off.

So $350 for an oil change testing all that stuff.................That's OK by me.

Just my opinion, I could be wrong. And if I am, I'm certain beyond doubt that someone on this forum will let me know about it

I have to agree for all they do it,s not that bad.I do my own as i have been an auto tech for 40 plus years.But remember if you don,t do this often and leave a plug loose or filter not tight this can get exspensive real quick.Plus they know what they are looking for on items that are known to fail.
Bill

 

[kmdowney167]

I agree also, it's about 50 miles to the dealer and they give me a loaner to bomb around town. Then you have nice ride home. And with a few different routes of getting there nothing says you have to go right home.


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[pegasus1300]

I thought BRP bumped out the 998 oil changes to 4600?

They did. I just did mine before going on a 1600 mi. trip. Oil was not black,still had some golden color to it and could still see thru it. Not like my V4 Yamahas that were coal black in 3000 mi.

I keep a log book for my bikes with mileage,date, oil type,& filter type/brand. It also has any farkles added ,date,mileage and farkle cost.

 

[SpyderConvert]

Service costs

I asked my local dealer what the first service would cost, $128/hr (x 3 hours), oil and filter, he quoted $500. I went back up to the parts dept. and ordered the service manual; I had done this for my two-wheelers because I feel comfortable doing some of the things that I would have had to pay the dealer to do. I check the service manual whenever I'm thinking of doing anything, if it looks like something beyond my comfort level, then I will take it to the dealer.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

SERVICE MANUAL

. I would call them back ASAP and have them cancel the purchase !!!!.....you can get the Service / shop manual on-line for about $25.00........on a computer disk or download.........Mike :thumbup:

 

[SpyderConvert]

Downloaded manual

. I would call them back ASAP and have them cancel the purchase !!!!.....you can get the Service / shop manual on-line for about $25.00........on a computer disk or download.........Mike :thumbup:

I had thought about getting that one, but I had read reviews that said that it really sucked. That's why I went with the paper copy; also, there is a supplement to the manual that covers updated information. Thanks for the info though!