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7x12 trailer owners - do you have trouble loading? Any fixes?

captcharles

New member
Do you have trouble loading from the rear ramp? Such as bottoming out on the way in? Have to do anything to raise the front of the trailer to do that?

Thanks:yikes:
 
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Do you have trouble loading from the rear ramp? Such as bottoming out on the way in? Have to do anything to raise the front of the trailer to do that?

Thanks:yikes:

Most folks just have a couple of 2 x 6 boards ( 4 ft long will be enough ) .... or release the tongue and tilt the entire trailer..... Mike :thumbup:
 
Do you have trouble loading from the rear ramp? Such as bottoming out on the way in? Have to do anything to raise the front of the trailer to do that?

Thanks:yikes:

I have a 7x12 enclosed trailer with a deck height of 17". The rear ramp/door is 6' long and I have no trouble rolling right in the trailer while it is hitched to the motorhome.
 
So the 2x6 are laid down on the ground before the loading ramp?

I would put the boards 2 ft.on the ramp and 2 ft before the ramp ..... put a couple of bolts at the RAMP end of the board so it doesn't SLIP - in or off the trailer ramp ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
Do you use 3 ramps?

Well I had to, because I was putting my RT into my Pick-up ( No Ramp ) .... You only need two for the front tires, the rear won't be affected by the Ramp angle .... and you should have enough traction to prevent slipping. ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
I don't have a 7x12 but this cured the bottoming out problem with my 6x10.
 

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I don't have a 7x12 but this cured the bottoming out problem with my 6x10.

What are the wood blocks for?

Looks to me like the front wheels will climb up the rear end of those 'wood blocks' just at the right time to lift the belly of the Spyder a bit higher & stop it scraping on the top of the ramp; then as the back wheel starts to climb the ramp & in its own turn, lifts the belly clear of the top of the ramp, the front wheels will go down the other side of those blocks. :ohyea:

It's effectively reducing the angle of the step up onto the ramp and the angle of the ramp over onto the trailer bed, basically extending the length of the angled ramp so that the belly of the Spyder doesn't/can't catch on the top of the ramp/rear edge of the trailer bed due to the Spyder's low ground clearance. I reckon it's a pretty smart way of doing it too! :thumbup:
 
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Yep, that works too. I use the dip at the end of driveway

Same when I rented a 7x12 utility. Sorry, didn’t measure the ramp/gate, guess it was 4, maybe 5 foot. If on flat ground, definitely too steep & hi centered. Blocked the street temporarily & backed to the curb at the driveway, which made it almost level :thumbup: ** hi centered & trailer hitch hit pavement **
 
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Looks to me like the front wheels will climb up the rear end of those 'wood blocks' just at the right time to lift the belly of the Spyder a bit higher & stop it scraping on the top of the ramp; then as the back wheel starts to climb the ramp & in its own turn, lifts the belly clear of the top of the ramp, the front wheels will go down the other side of those blocks. :ohyea:

It's effectively reducing the angle of the step up onto the ramp and the angle of the ramp over onto the trailer bed, basically extending the length of the angled ramp so that the belly of the Spyder doesn't/can't catch on the top of the ramp/rear edge of the trailer bed due to the Spyder's low ground clearance. I reckon it's a pretty smart way of doing it too! :thumbup:

Exactly
 
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My trailer is 7 x 14 and loads with no bottoming. I did add an 18 inch full width flap that eases the transition from ground to ramp. It is attached with three large hinges and folds inside against the ramp.
 
Most folks just have a couple of 2 x 6 boards ( 4 ft long will be enough ) .... or release the tongue and tilt the entire trailer..... Mike :thumbup:

Hopefully the boards will work, but if you do have to "release the tongue ...", please make SURE you have the wheels blocked IN BOTH DIRECTIONS and also have some bracing under the trailer to HOLD the tilt. But then you also need to be able to release the tilt (in a controlled manner), so personally, I would avoid releasing the tongue and tilting the trailer. Boards are cheaper and SO much easier.

.
 
Hopefully the boards will work, but if you do have to "release the tongue ...", please make SURE you have the wheels blocked IN BOTH DIRECTIONS and also have some bracing under the trailer to HOLD the tilt. But then you also need to be able to release the tilt (in a controlled manner), so personally, I would avoid releasing the tongue and tilting the trailer. Boards are cheaper and SO much easier.

.

:agree: ..... and releasing the tongue might not be a good idea for most folks ..... Thanks .... Mike :thumbup:
 
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