72 Hours with my Spyder RT-S SE5

[Bob Denman]

Please don't let some relatively minor issues sour your mood just yet! Hang in there and DON'T start smoking!! :shocked:

 

[Bob Denman]

Well good luck! and let us know how the situation proceeds... :thumbup:

 

[JonGalt]

Well good luck! and let us know how the situation proceeds... :thumbup:

Thanks, They picked it up yesterday and it should be ready and delivered tomorrow. I'm done :bdh: time to chill out.:doorag:

 

[Spyderjohn]

:welcome: Congratulations on your purchase!
I purchased a 2010 RTS SE5 Black and have had so far, no issues: not even gas smell.

 

[JonGalt]

:welcome: Congratulations on your purchase!
I purchased a 2010 RTS SE5 Black and have had so far, no issues: not even gas smell.

:congrats: Yeah, I just have bad luck, technology doesn't like me. God enjoys my consternation. :roflblack:

 

[napper39]

lrt us know when you get it back how things go and put a picture on we love to see pictures.hope it works out and you have a blast.:chat::thumbup:

 

[JonGalt]

Maybe I should start a new thread

lrt us know when you get it back how things go and put a picture on we love to see pictures.hope it works out and you have a blast.:chat::thumbup:

:agree:Will do, I am hoping they deliver it today. I will also take a QIK video with my phone or use my HD LOGITECH camera to upload a YouTube video when I get my Lenovo X201T Tablet back from the shop. I was at Triangle Cycles in Durham, NC yesterday to get a bigger riding jacket to accomodate my back-brace & to pickup my CAN-AM ST1 HYBRID Helmet.

(BTW: I'm plugging the dealership :spyder:..I want to help them stay open in this economy because 10 motorcyles dealers have folded in the triangle area including the Raleigh Can-Am dealer!)

I probably need to get the handle-bar modded to accomodate me not having to lean forward when I'm riding. It exacerbates my 2 torn discs something terrible the day after riding. Suggestions?

Does anyone have a recommendation for GPS, MOUNT, and Helmet COMM.

I am really leaning towards a pair of Scala Rider G4 PowerSet Headsets for my CAN-AM ST-1 HYBRID Helmet. I didn't order my helmet with the optional communication kit, but I did get the optional chin-guard. (Looking at ebay I could have got the helmet with the mic/headphones for $369. I paid that just for the helmet with a chin guard. I would have to pay the dealer an additional $189 for a headphone/mic that is wired and I wasn't sure I wanted to be wired).

If I spend $339 (heavely discounted on ebay from the retail price of $499) I can get a pair of wireless scala rider G4 PowerSet Headset that will let me talk to another rider a mile away wirelessly while intregrating with a GPS via Bluetooth + FM, MP3 compatible. This allows me to eschew the Can-am CB which is a prerequisite (as I understand it) for ZUMO GPS audio integration with the Spyder's Audio and Can-AM ST1 Hybrid Helmet's audio which I don't have, is a wired solution vs wireless, and will cost me another $189.

Maybe I should start a new thread? Suggestions?

FYI: This CAN-AM ST1 HYBRID helmet is very impressive. The optional top air vents are great for the summer. The optional/removable modular chin guard (several to choose from) is a nice option. The hidden sun-visor with easy to reach release mechanism is so sleek and makes me feel like spy! The biggest reason I got this helmet is that my head is between Medium and Large & to the parts manager surprise they offer a Medium Large size! They have sm, med1, med2, large,...! I am impressed with the helmet & it fits perfectly.

I will stop there...lunch is ready! Boy...The coffee must be working today! It's a tug-a-war with the morphine and muscle-relaxers :f_spider: I take for my back)

 

[Marker]

It's Timeless Black:ani29:

So is my 2010 RTS SE5 but I have not rode it yet as bought it just before winter and dealer is storing it for the winter. Will be coming out soon as soon as DPS is replaced:thumbup:
Glad to hear that you are getting things resolved

 

[JonGalt]

I got my Spyder back yesterday. Dealer acknowledged they found 2 low voltage conditions codes when they ran diagnostics. They cleared the computer codes. Drove it around and said it was fine. They assumed that the problem was due to the battery being low, but I explained to the GM that the battery was 100% charged when I got the cascading warnings. This fact seem to escape him. I asked did they check for loose connections and he was like "sure..sure...sure". I may be cynical, but I am less than convinced. I drove the Spyder and everything seems fine, but when I was done for the day I put the battery on the tender charge. It took 4 hours for the red light to blink green (battery charged to 80%) and 2 more hours for the light to turn steady-on (100% charged). Is it normal after riding the vehicle that the battery should be discharged this much that it requires 6 hours of charging? I have 0% faith that problem is resolved and fully expect to find a battery that gets more and more discharged over the next few days. I will not use the tender anymore and monitor the voltage drop.

If the battery remains strong, then I will recant at a later date. Is it really true that the magneto does not charge the battery until 4K rpm is reached? This seems odd as I rarely see the Spyder reach 4K rpm when in 5th gear at average city cruising speeds. Why didn't Can-Am just go with an alternator? Isn't a magneto a bit dated?

Aside from this...I had a great time riding yesterday. This thing guzzles gas like my twin brother puts away Vodka! :roflblack:

I ray: that the problems are resolved. Fingers-crossed.

 

[Bob Denman]

Hi John!
I've only used a Battery Tender for one Winter so my epxerience with them isn't nearly as extensive as otheres who are here...
I kept my Soyder tethered to it;unhooking it only for startups and runtime over the" Dark Season". After shutting it down ind plugging it back in, I noticed that it was always taking a charge for about a half-hour or so and then it'd be full and "snooze" until the next time I woke it up...
6 hours seems a bit long...

 

[NancysToy]

I got my Spyder back yesterday. Dealer acknowledged they found 2 low voltage conditions codes when they ran diagnostics. They cleared the computer codes. Drove it around and said it was fine. They assumed that the problem was due to the battery being low, but I explained to the GM that the battery was 100% charged when I got the cascading warnings. This fact seem to escape him. I asked did they check for loose connections and he was like "sure..sure...sure". I may be cynical, but I am less than convinced. I drove the Spyder and everything seems fine, but when I was done for the day I put the battery on the tender charge. It took 4 hours for the red light to blink green (battery charged to 80%) and 2 more hours for the light to turn steady-on (100% charged). Is it normal after riding the vehicle that the battery should be discharged this much that it requires 6 hours of charging? I have 0% faith that problem is resolved and fully expect to find a battery that gets more and more discharged over the next few days. I will not use the tender anymore and monitor the voltage drop.

If the battery remains strong, then I will recant at a later date. Is it really true that the magneto does not charge the battery until 4K rpm is reached? This seems odd as I rarely see the Spyder reach 4K rpm when in 5th gear at average city cruising speeds. Why didn't Can-Am just go with an alternator? Isn't a magneto a bit dated?

Aside from this...I had a great time riding yesterday. This thing guzzles gas like my twin brother puts away Vodka! :roflblack:

I ray: that the problems are resolved. Fingers-crossed.

Your dealer's response to the situation is disappointing, to say the least. Techs that clear codes, then say everything "seems to be OK", give me a rash. There are certain diagnostic tests and other inspections that should have been performed, like checking the terminal tightness. I would be skeptical, too. The good news is that the battery is warrantied for six months, so if it fails you have time to address it later.

If you are doing a lot of running around in rpm ranges below 4K, your time on the charger could be perfectly normal. Plug it in and forget it. The Spyder does charge below 4K, but it does not charge hard. At 4,000 rpm the charging output is about half the full rated wattage. The output drops off even more below that. Depending on the number of starts, the length of your ride, the weather, and what accessories and lights you are running, the battery could be reasonably low after a ride. I do think leaving it off the charger will tell you if your problem remains, though. If the Spyder is being used every few days or better, you should not need the Battery Tender.

There are good reasons to use a permanent magnet alternator (magneto), instead of an AC alternator, on a Spyder. Perhaps the best of these is the fact that the magnetos tolerate heat better. The Spyder does not have an open engine compartment, or substantial air flow past the engine, to allow alternator cooling. I wouldn't second guess the engineers on this one. Just keep the revs up.

 

[Yfactor]

This seems odd as I rarely see the Spyder reach 4K rpm when in 5th gear at average city cruising speeds.

The only time I use 5th is above 60mph. Most city cruising is done in 3rd and once in a while I might get
to 4th. I try to keep the RPM's around 3500 to 4500.
:spyder: seems to like this range and downshift around 3000 RPM. :spyder2:

 

[draboo]

Living where we do, I cannot use a battery tender. I have one from our ATV days back in MI. Neither Spyder we have owned ever had any problems with low batterys. They have sat from a week to a few months and always fired right up.

As far as gas consumption goes, I was rather surprised on how fast the analog gauge on the left side of the dash pretty much dives toward empty..until I read Fred's commentary about how much gas is still left after it hits the "red zone" which is, in fact, around 2 gallons. I have not checked the consumption rate as of yet. I m guessing a tad below 30, riding 2 up with the pooch bolted on the back,too.

 

[spyryder]

I've had my Spyder for THREE years now.....never even looked at the battery other than to check voltage once in a while when parked for up to 2 months in freezing temps. Those readings never went below 12.6 volts. When IDLING at 1500 RPM's it's charging around 13.77 volts......yes it maintains that voltage even with stepping on the brake, 4 way flashers etc. At 3000 RPM it's around 14 volts so there SHOULDN'T be a problem maintaining a charge even without any type of battery tender or charger.

P.S. The R/T charging system puts out 650 watts @ 2000 RPM.

 

[JonGalt]

Okay, here's a real unscientific study.

My RT was last driven a week ago.
It sat in the garage for a week without the maintainer on.
We took it out today and putzed around the secondary roads, rarely reaching over 4k.
Two stops and two starts.

Brought it into the garage, plugged in the maintainer and 40 minutes later it went into 'maintain' mode (as opposed to 'charge').

Your mileage may vary.

:agree:

I was expecting this to be the case yesterday, but I have no idea what was done at the dealership before they handed it back to me.

I do know I started this morning with a fully charged battery after 6 hours last night. I drove for about an hour and will monitor the voltage drop from here on out.

My battery measured 12.88Vdc after my hour drive. I measured it an over hour later & it was 13.03Vdc. This makes sense as the battery has a load on it for about 45 minutes while the computer is making that high pitched sound while it plays with the throttle something-or-other. I forgot what scotty or someone said in the other thread.

So far so good!

 

[JonGalt]

I've had my Spyder for THREE years now.....never even looked at the battery other than to check voltage once in a while when parked for up to 2 months in freezing temps. Those readings never went below 12.6 volts. When IDLING at 1500 RPM's it's charging around 13.77 volts......yes it maintains that voltage even with stepping on the brake, 4 way flashers etc. At 3000 RPM it's around 14 volts so there SHOULDN'T be a problem maintaining a charge even without any type of battery tender or charger.

P.S. The R/T charging system puts out 650 watts @ 2000 RPM.

I want your results to be mine. If this keeps up I will just install a car battery in the rear storage. :roflblack:

 

[JonGalt]

Living where we do, I cannot use a battery tender. I have one from our ATV days back in MI. Neither Spyder we have owned ever had any problems with low batterys. They have sat from a week to a few months and always fired right up.

As far as gas consumption goes, I was rather surprised on how fast the analog gauge on the left side of the dash pretty much dives toward empty..until I read Fred's commentary about how much gas is still left after it hits the "red zone" which is, in fact, around 2 gallons. I have not checked the consumption rate as of yet. I m guessing a tad below 30, riding 2 up with the pooch bolted on the back,too.

How do you bolt your pooch? I am considering letting my 3.6lb runt Japanese Chin :f_spider: go for a spin. She's more adventurous then me and if I am ever to take long trips, she will either have to come or shipped in a box ahead of me.:roflblack:

 

[spyryder]

:agree:

I was expecting this to be the case yesterday, but I have no idea what was done at the dealership before they handed it back to me.

I do know I started this morning with a fully charged battery after 6 hours last night. I drove for about an hour and will monitor the voltage drop from here on out.

My battery measured 12.88Vdc after my hour drive. I measured it an over hour later & it was 13.03Vdc. This makes sense as the battery has a load on it for about 45 minutes while the computer is making that high pitched sound while it plays with the throttle something-or-other. I forgot what scotty or someone said in the other thread.

So far so good!

Those sound like pretty good voltages. I'd try leaving the tender off and monitoring those voltages for a few days. If it stays above 12.6 you should be fine.ray:

 

[RoadHammer]

I will pick up a voltmeter tomorrow. I finally picked up a good socket set to get in there and tighten everything, but since the dealership wants to pick it up and get this resolved I will give them the opportunity. I'm glad I got to my driveway when all these diagnostic lights went off, I might have freaked out on the highway if it happened at 70mph half way home on the interstate. I just wish my initial experience was more positive, I have little faith in the quality of this product. I am used to Toyota, Honda, & Lexus quality. This...well...not so much.:gaah:

Pick up a pack of smokes, and get ready to wrench. Weclome to the world of the canam spyder.. (just kiddin).. Hope it works out for ya.:2thumbs:

 

[JonGalt]

Your dealer's response to the situation is disappointing, to say the least. Techs that clear codes, then say everything "seems to be OK", give me a rash. There are certain diagnostic tests and other inspections that should have been performed, like checking the terminal tightness. I would be skeptical, too. The good news is that the battery is warrantied for six months, so if it fails you have time to address it later.

If you are doing a lot of running around in rpm ranges below 4K, your time on the charger could be perfectly normal. Plug it in and forget it. The Spyder does charge below 4K, but it does not charge hard. At 4,000 rpm the charging output is about half the full rated wattage. The output drops off even more below that. Depending on the number of starts, the length of your ride, the weather, and what accessories and lights you are running, the battery could be reasonably low after a ride. I do think leaving it off the charger will tell you if your problem remains, though. If the Spyder is being used every few days or better, you should not need the Battery Tender.

There are good reasons to use a permanent magnet alternator (magneto), instead of an AC alternator, on a Spyder. Perhaps the best of these is the fact that the magnetos tolerate heat better. The Spyder does not have an open engine compartment, or substantial air flow past the engine, to allow alternator cooling. I wouldn't second guess the engineers on this one. Just keep the revs up.

:agree::agree::agree::agree::agree::agree::agree:


My battery measured 12.88Vdc after an hour drive coming off a fully tender charged battery today. I measured it an over hour later & it was 13.03Vdc. This makes sense as the battery has a load on it for about 45 minutes while the battery is keeping the throttle-thingy making that dog-whistle sound. :f_spider:

I misread the original poster. He said maximum charging isn't reached until 4000rpm.

Thanks for clarifying about the magneto vs alternator. My wannabe know-it-all friend kept razzing me about the Spyder having a magneto charging sytem and I didn't have an explanation. Now I can tell him to go :cus: himself.:roflblack:

We know who the real know-it-all is :2thumbs: Thanks Scotty!