72 Hours with my Spyder RT-S SE5

[JonGalt]

Don't know about the 2011's but my 2010 has been nearly flawless for the eight months I've had it. Only issue was a rear suspension air leak which was taken care of during DPS recall replacement. As for the gas smell, I notice this from time to time and usually right after fueling up. This might be from my habit of adding an extra quick squirt of fuel after auto cut off of the fuel pump.

:congrats: on the new :spyder:

Okay, I'm not worrying about the gas smell anymore. Thanks!

 

[JonGalt]

Scotty, of course, is correct about the light's power source is through the load shedding relay.
Even if it did stay on the current draw wouldn't be enough to kill a good battery.
In my experience battery failure, if it's going to happen, happens in the first little while. After that it's unlikely to happen unless there is some extraneous source that kills it prematurely.
But your dealer will take care of it.

And, I too thought the grill was missing.

:agree:, an LED light could draw for days and not kill that battery! I finally have a green flashing light on the tender so I'm at 80% charge now! Sure did take long enough! I will wait until I get a solid green indicator and the I will monitor how long it holds the charge before needing the tender again.

 

[2Gunns]

First let me say :welcome:and fellow Carolina Spyder Ryder.

I believe we all have been victims of the "missing grill" syndrome, don't let that one bother you. I have installed right side after-market from Custom Dynamics (Winston-Salem).

As for your battery issues, My 2010 RT-S did the same thing you describe days after I picked her up.... and NancysToy nailed the problem, loose connections (specificlly the negitive "false" post)

I had to bend a open-end wrench to reach, but was able to tighten it myself. Never an issue since.


Hope to see you on the road....enjoy that RT :2thumbs:

 

[JonGalt]

I doubt the battery is completely FUBAR, but it's capacity is almost certainly reduced. Only properly charging it, then testing after a few hours or overnight, will tell if it is taking and holding an adequate charge. Even then, it could pass the test and still be somewhat weakened. Failure to pass a load test would indicate the need for immediate replacement. A good dealer would have picked the Spyder up with their trailer, apologized profusely, repaired the problem, then returned the Spyder. A great dealer would have replaced the battery on the spot. It is a pity your dealer seems to be neither.

:agree::agree:I finally got a hold of the dealer first thing this morning. He offered to pick the Spyder up. They will replace the battery if it won't hold a charge. I am going to let the tender finish charging the battery. I will tighten the connections myself. (Might as well get my hands dirty and learn how this thing goes together). If the battery still won't hold a charge I will let the dealer handle it. Thanks again for everyone's help and advice. I feel so much better knowing all of you trailblazers have already went through the hiccups of owning a new product like this. My confidence in this group makes me whole lot more fearless owning this contraption. You guys rock! :bowdown::clap::bowdown::clap::2thumbs:

 

[Mr. White]

Thanks for the tip! :2thumbs: I will be checking things out today. I have been charging the battery all night. The tender charge light has yet to turn green after 15 hours! I am able to start it now, but I'm convinced the battery is not holding a charge. I will check all of the connections.

Jon, I have seven Wal-Mart battery chargers (maintainers) of the old design. I just bought one to plug in Big Red 1 and put it on my four wheeler. It stayed red for over 12 hours, never flashed or turned green. I returned it, thinking it was defective and got another one. I have not plugged it in yet.

It is one that detects whether it is a 6v or 12v. I don't like it or the new design. Let me know IF your's ever turned green. Mine should have gone green immediately as my battery was fully charged.

FYI. I bought a pig tail that plugs in the trunk to charge my battery as I keep a charger on 24/7....on my scoots.

 

[JonGalt]

Thanks for the tip! :2thumbs: I will be checking things out today. I have been charging the battery all night. The tender charge light has yet to turn green after 15 hours! I am able to start it now, but I'm convinced the battery is not holding a charge. I will check all of the connections.

Jon, I have seven Wal-Mart battery chargers (maintainers) of the old design. I just bought one to plug in Big Red 1 and put it on my four wheeler. It stayed red for over 12 hours, never flashed or turned green. I returned it, thinking it was defective and got another one. I have not plugged it in yet.

It is one that detects whether it is a 6v or 12v. I don't like it or the new design. Let me know IF your's ever turned green. Mine should have gone green immediately as my battery was fully charged.

FYI. I bought a pig tail that plugs in the trunk to charge my battery as I keep a charger on 24/7....on my scoots.

It took about 16 hours to start flashing GREEN . This indicates it is 80% charged. I bought a $30 "Deltran Battery Tender Junior" at Battery Plus yesterday. I was going to get the PLUS model, but they said it was overkill for a CAN-AM or a motorcycle. It outputs 12Vdc @ 750mA and the directions indicates that it takes 16 hours to charge a battery to 80% which is spot on with what I experienced! This may indicate that the problem may not be a drain or the battery, but rather the alternator not properly charging the battery maybe due to a bad connection? Otherwise this may simply be that it was never charged long enough or properly at the dealership to begin with. Seems if there was a drain, short, or the battery had bad cells the charge time would have exceeded 16 hours to reach 80%. I wish I bought the Plus model because it outputs 1.25Amps and charges a 12Vdc battery to 80% in 9 hours. They talked me out of spending more so I went the conservative route instead of my typical "OVERKILL" response. I'm now just waiting for the light to go solid green and maintain that state after some riding or removing the tender. ray:ray:ray:

 

[retread]

When you get things sorted out, one thing to keep in mind; Spyders have a magneto to charge the battery, and it's output doesn't max out till around 4k rpm. I generally keep mine on a BT jr, but with a decent battery, you should be able to let it go a week or so with no charger hooked up.

john

 

[JonGalt]

When you get things sorted out, one thing to keep in mind; Spyders have a magneto to charge the battery, and it's output doesn't max out till around 4k rpm. I generally keep mine on a BT jr, but with a decent battery, you should be able to let it go a week or so with no charger hooked up.

john

Ah yes, gotcha! No alternator...I forget this is not car! This is my first motorcyle-esque vehicle aside from a honda scooter when I was 17 years old! I have much to learn.:dontknow:

 

[Bob Denman]

... "motorcyle-esque vehicle"...

That is a GREAT way to describe these!! :2thumbs: We've had several (well... many!) running battles over what to call them... YOU WIN! :thumbup:

 

[NancysToy]

It took about 16 hours to start flashing GREEN . This indicates it is 80% charged. I bought a $30 "Deltran Battery Tender Junior" at Battery Plus yesterday. I was going to get the PLUS model, but they said it was overkill for a CAN-AM or a motorcycle. It outputs 12Vdc @ 750mA and the directions indicates that it takes 16 hours to charge a battery to 80% which is spot on with what I experienced! This may indicate that the problem may not be a drain or the battery, but rather the alternator not properly charging the battery maybe due to a bad connection? Otherwise this may simply be that it was never charged long enough or properly at the dealership to begin with. Seems if there was a drain, short, or the battery had bad cells the charge time would have exceeded 16 hours to reach 80%. I wish I bought the Plus model because it outputs 1.25Amps and charges a 12Vdc battery to 80% in 9 hours. They talked me out of spending more so I went the conservative route instead of my typical "OVERKILL" response. I'm now just waiting for the light to go solid green and maintain that state after some riding or removing the tender. ray:ray:ray:

As you have discovered, it takes a long time to fully charge a 21 amp hour battery at a mere 0.75 amps (theoretically 28 hours if it was completely dead). That is OK, a slow charge is a safe charge. The good news is that you are close to full charge now. If the battery tender never flashes green, there is either a bad connection or the battery is FUBAR. If you get a solid green, the battery is almost certainly good. A weakened (sulfated) battery may flash the indicator, but never turn it solid. Sounds like you will be good to go, real soon. :thumbup:

 

[JonGalt]

That is a GREAT way to describe these!! :2thumbs: We've had several (well... many!) running battles over what to call them... YOU WIN! :thumbup:

I don't often win...let me take this all in!:roflblack:

 

[JonGalt]

As you have discovered, it takes a long time to fully charge a 21 amp hour battery at a mere 0.75 amps (theoretically 28 hours if it was completely dead). That is OK, a slow charge is a safe charge. The good news is that you are close to full charge now. If the battery tender never flashes green, there is either a bad connection or the battery is FUBAR. If you get a solid green, the battery is almost certainly good. A weakened (sulfated) battery may flash the indicator, but never turn it solid. Sounds like you will be good to go, real soon. :thumbup:

I got solid Green! I took it out on the highway to a friend's place. Came home after a great ride (put about 40 miles on her) a few minutes ago and right as I pulled up to my garage I got a DPS error flashing, VSS icon came on, ENGINE light flashing, oil light flashing, orange handlebar light, & limp home error. I'm like son-of-:cus: ! It was a Kobayashi Maru scenario! I can't win for losing! I powered it down in the garage and cranked her back up a few minutes later and most of the "RED Alerts" were gone, but the engine light didn't go off until a few seconds. I called the dealer and they are scheduling a pickup. I'm disheartened. I am ready to take up smoking again! :spyder:

 

[NancysToy]

I got solid Green! I took it out on the highway to a friend's place. Came home after a great ride (put about 40 miles on her) a few minutes ago and right as I pulled up to my garage I got a DPS error flashing, VSS icon came on, ENGINE light flashing, oil light flashing, orange handlebar light, & limp home error. I'm like son-of-:cus: ! It was a Kobayashi Maru scenario! I can't win for losing! I powered it down in the garage and cranked her back up a few minutes later a few minutes later and most of the "RED Alerts" were gone, but the engine light didn't go off until a few seconds. I called the dealer and they are scheduling a pickup. I'm disheartened. I am ready to take up smoking again! :spyder:

The cascading failure codes are usually a sign of low voltage (or a loose wire), or of a loose main relay. Look on the bright side, problems that are easily seen and repeated, are usually readily found and repaired. A good dealer should be able to readily resolve it. Don't get discouraged...it is only a speed bump.

If you want to test the battery yourself, charge fully, then measure the battery voltage with a voltmeter anywhere from several hours after removing the charger, to overnight. The battery should retain at least 12.6-12.7 volts. Holding the throttle wide open to prevent starting, crank the starter. The voltage when cranking should remain above 10.0 volts. At 4,000 rpm. the Spyder should charge between 13.0-14.8 volts.

 

[JonGalt]

The cascading failure codes are usually a sign of low voltage (or a loose wire), or of a loose main relay. Look on the bright side, problems that are easily seen and repeated, are usually readily found and repaired. A good dealer should be able to readily resolve it. Don't get discouraged...it is only a speed bump.

If you want to test the battery yourself, charge fully, then measure the battery voltage with a voltmeter anywhere from several hours after removing the charger, to overnight. The battery should retain at least 12.6-12.7 volts. Holding the throttle wide open to prevent starting, crank the starter. The voltage when cranking should remain above 10.0 volts. At 4,000 rpm. the Spyder should charge between 13.0-14.8 volts.

I will pick up a voltmeter tomorrow. I finally picked up a good socket set to get in there and tighten everything, but since the dealership wants to pick it up and get this resolved I will give them the opportunity. I'm glad I got to my driveway when all these diagnostic lights went off, I might have freaked out on the highway if it happened at 70mph half way home on the interstate. I just wish my initial experience was more positive, I have little faith in the quality of this product. I am used to Toyota, Honda, & Lexus quality. This...well...not so much.:gaah:

 

[napper39]

make sure your foot is not tuching the brake it will cause all kinds of falts and limp modes. i mean not tuching any where till your ready to stop.ask me why i know.i had no idea the side of my foot was brushing the brake enough to cause all that crap.:yikes::chat:

 

[JonGalt]

make sure your foot is not tuching the brake it will cause all kinds of falts and limp modes. i mean not tuching any where till your ready to stop.ask me why i know.i had no idea the side of my foot was brushing the brake enough to cause all that crap.:yikes::chat:

I covered the brake a bit much on my 40 mile trip and wondered if I was touching it too much. Funny all the warning happen when I am stopping & crawling to get the spyder into the garage. Maybe it didn't like my jerky cautious stop and go into the garage. Temperamental comes to mind! :joke:

 

[clueless]

also you can get a battery tester for cheap at Harbor Freight.

but did you check the bolt under the seat next to the fuse box yet? seriously check it now...

 

[JonGalt]

also you can get a battery tester for cheap at Harbor Freight.

but did you check the bolt under the seat next to the fuse box yet? seriously check it now...

I checked that connection. It was very tight. I can't get it tighter. (This is the one with the black ground wire attached, next to the fuses)

I will go out to harbor freight, we have one down the street. They are cheap! :2thumbs:

I am still waiting for the dealer to schedule a pickup. I am hoping then get it today. It's rainy and cold again. Yesterday was perfect weather and tomorrow through Sunday is also suppose to be warmer and sunny.

On the plus side the battery tender is not having to charge the battery and is only in monitoring after about an 45 minutes solid red it turns green and no flashing inbetween! So at least the battery is staying charged and holding a charge now.

 

[2Gunns]

Jon,

I sent you a PM.... hang in there my freind. I too felt I had made a huge mistake with my RT purchase. It all worked out, and now I feel it's the best purchase I ever made.

Better days are just around the next corner :yes:

 

[JonGalt]

Jon,

I sent you a PM.... hang in there my freind. I too felt I had made a huge mistake with my RT purchase. It all worked out, and now I feel it's the best purchase I ever made.

Better days are just around the next corner :yes:

Got it, and back at ya :thumbup: