rustynail51
Member
Glad I don't have a clutch lever to pull anymore fingers get painful in city traffic keep my old Honda naked wing around when I feel the need to pull a clutch it doesn't get used much .
Last edited:
View attachment 154022
They don't shift "on their own". If you don't upshift it: you'll stay in whatever gear you're in! :thumbup:
(But they WILL downshift, if they get the sense that the rpms are dropping too low...)
How are automatic downshifts not shifting "on their own?" That's exactly what bugs me. The transmission should either handle it all automatically, or let me handle gear changes. Don't make me select a gear and then veto my decision because I roll off the throttle.
Are you saying you WANT to be able to make the engine lug and struggle to maintain speed when the RPM drops below the minimum design RPM for it to run smoothly and efficiently? The auto down shift is intended to prevent that, plus make sure you are always in 1st gear, not 6th, when you come to a stop. At speeds above the clutch engagement speed the engine RPM is controlled by the bike speed. Just because you roll off the throttle the bike does not downshift until the bike speed causes the engine speed to drop below the design minimum. If you want to manually downshift at a higher RPM you can.How are automatic downshifts not shifting "on their own?" That's exactly what bugs me. The transmission should either handle it all automatically, or let me handle gear changes. Don't make me select a gear and then veto my decision because I roll off the throttle.
Are you saying you WANT to be able to make the engine lug and struggle to maintain speed when the RPM drops below the minimum design RPM for it to run smoothly and efficiently? The auto down shift is intended to prevent that, plus make sure you are always in 1st gear, not 6th, when you come to a stop. At speeds above the clutch engagement speed the engine RPM is controlled by the bike speed. Just because you roll off the throttle the bike does not downshift until the bike speed causes the engine speed to drop below the design minimum. If you want to manually downshift at a higher RPM you can.
I understand exactly where you are coming from. My first spyder was a 2014 RT SM6, and I loved it. My thoughts were, why pay more for something else that can break. Well, my next bike was a 2012 RSS SE5. It took some getting used to, but it started to grow on me. Then when I had trouble with the shifting and had to pay nearly $800 to get it fixed, I wanted nothing to do with another SE.Of course I don't want to lug the engine. I do get what you're saying—sort of—but I manage to NOT lug the engine with a manual transmission just fine. Why is having a computer make a jerky downshift better than me just pulling in the clutch? At the other extreme, if it's smart enough to downshift on its own, why do I have to manually up-shift? Why not just make it fully automatic? I guess I just can't get my head around why the SE should behave the way it does. It seems like a solution in search of its own problems.
I almost never experience any jerkiness with the auto shift while slowing down. Auto shifting down but not up makes sense. There are firm limits to the combined engine and road speed at the bottom end. There isn't at the top end. Manual up shifting gives you the freedom to choose what RPM, above the minimum, you want to shift all the way to red line. You also have the freedom to down shift at whatever RPM you want above the minimum, and many riders do to use compression to slow down. I manually downshift mostly while going downhill to hold my speed back at the speed limit.Of course I don't want to lug the engine. I do get what you're saying—sort of—but I manage to NOT lug the engine with a manual transmission just fine. Why is having a computer make a jerky downshift better than me just pulling in the clutch? At the other extreme, if it's smart enough to downshift on its own, why do I have to manually up-shift? Why not just make it fully automatic? I guess I just can't get my head around why the SE should behave the way it does. It seems like a solution in search of its own problems.
It also depends on where you live I live at the only stoplight for 120 miles in 4 directions MT for me all the way if was riding in a city all the time SE. Resale should equal out less MT makes them rare and there are people that want them. Put an 04 dodge cummins 6 speed up for sale and they beat your door down to buy itCount me as a manual guy. Thought I'd have enough to 'learn' going from two wheels to three so figured the manual was one thing I wouldn't have to learn. In reality I acclimated much quicker than many have said it normally takes, so guess I could have gone with the SE.
:yes:
On the other hand read a lot about the SE having shifting issues, clutch issues, stuck in gear issues and even emergency brake issues (which you HAVE to set with an SE, (so you are using it a lot more) you do not HAVE to on the SM (but should have you are on any kind of incline). So there is that.
Yet have to agree, resale value and resale pool of interested persons are both less.
:gaah:
I almost never experience any jerkiness with the auto shift while slowing down. Auto shifting down but not up makes sense. There are firm limits to the combined engine and road speed at the bottom end. There isn't at the top end. Manual up shifting gives you the freedom to choose what RPM, above the minimum, you want to shift all the way to red line. You also have the freedom to down shift at whatever RPM you want above the minimum, and many riders do to use compression to slow down. I manually downshift mostly while going downhill to hold my speed back at the speed limit.
Quite normal for anyone who hasn't used an electric shift previously. I found it easy to use because my Honda ATV has electric shift. The newer ATVs have auto shift up and down that works great. It can be turned off and on. My brother has one and really likes it. But ATV riding in the mountains ain't nowhere near what Spyder riding is on the highway! :thumbup:Well stated. I guess I simply haven't ridden an SE long enough to get used to it.
I don't know about the others, but I control every shift on all of my rydes. Obviously I have to shift up, but, I do all of the downshifting a son well. On rare occasions I will allow the computer to drop into first gear as I come to a stop, but other than that I do it all. I don't have to mess with the clutch and the fun factor is still there!:yes:Of course I don't want to lug the engine. I do get what you're saying—sort of—but I manage to NOT lug the engine with a manual transmission just fine. Why is having a computer make a jerky downshift better than me just pulling in the clutch? At the other extreme, if it's smart enough to downshift on its own, why do I have to manually up-shift? Why not just make it fully automatic? I guess I just can't get my head around why the SE should behave the way it does. It seems like a solution in search of its own problems.
I don't think Ford 'feels' it is necessary. They've undoubtedly found that it IS necessary! :banghead: As to stopping before putting it into reverse many people find it works just fine with an automatic to shift into reverse before coming to a complete stop. I do. If they have no experience with manual shifting why wouldn't they likely think the same about a standard transmission.But my favorite has to be this one: BRING THE VEHICLE TO A COMPLETE STOP BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO SHIFT INTO REVERSE...I would think that just the fact that Ford feels it necessary to hang a tag WITH WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS