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5 Plus Bars runs rough @3000 rpms

limo1411

New member
This is my first post and I'm hoping someone can help. I'm running TBR single pipe juice box K&N filter. When I hit 5 bars, on the temperature gage, my bike runs rough at around 3000 rpms. I have adjusted the juice box and still no luck. I bought the bike in October 09 - used with 700 miles on it. It ran fine stock but I don't care for the stock muffler. I also have the oil catch can.

Any ideas or suggestions?
 
What are your setting on the JB? Do you have the stock o2 sensor? Have you checked your plugs and wires?
 
It's raining here in Pittsburgh. Bike is in my garage a few miles away - have to check the JB settings, running stock 02. I have not checked the wires and plugs. Only happens at 3000+ rpms when warm. Runs fine when its cold.
 
The plug on the left is what mine looks like with my JB dialed in. The plug on the right was a little lean.
picture.php
 
I bought the bike with 700 miles on it. It now has 3000. What plugs would you recommend replacing stock with? By the way, the Lamonster catch can works great! Thanks for your help!
 
I'm still running stock plugs and they seem to be working fine. I would take a look at your plug wires in the dark to see if you're getting any spark. There have been a few guys with this problem. I would also check all your vacuum lines for cracks.
 
One other thing is to see what updates have been done to the bike.Some had problems after the first update and the second one smoothed it out.I had a problem that sounds like what you have the second update was the fix.Call the dealer with your vin # and he can tell you.
 
One other thing is to see what updates have been done to the bike.Some had problems after the first update and the second one smoothed it out.I had a problem that sounds like what you have the second update was the fix.Call the dealer with your vin # and he can tell you.
Good point, I forgot about that. :thumbup:
 
Probably not an issue but have you checked your coolant level? Also, be sure nothing is clogging up your radiator fins.

Like Lamont said, 5 bars is not as hot as the gauge scale would make you think. BRP needs to expand the range of that gauge so it doesn't appear to be hotter than it is. Just makes people worry when it isn't needed. It doesn't help when you can feel the heat coming out of the engine compartment either.

Mine runs at 3 bars most of the time, 4 bars when it is hot and sometimes 5 bars in stop and go traffic.
 
Past temperature studies conducted by the auto industry indicate engines last longer and run better and cleaner with thermostats that keep the temp in the rand of 185 to 195. In view of these studies I wouldn't be too concerned about 5 bars and 197 degrees.

You might check to see if the radiator cap is fully seated and make sure someone didn't mix orange antifreeze with green antifreeze. Mixing the two together damages the longevity of the 5 year orange.

Not certain but I believe you can get a more accurate readings by going to the digital readings on the instrument cluster. Check for a post on this site on doing this... /Ken krb1945
 
These are my plugs after approx 3500 miles.
Replaced with the Iridiums.

I seen a thread not long ago that the heat sink was critical.

Lamont, by no means doubting your knowledge & expertise what so ever.

But I don't see the white paste on your fingers.:dontknow:

Is it needed or not?

I did use it on the new plugs, suppose it can't hurt.
 
This is my first post and I'm hoping someone can help. I'm running TBR single pipe juice box K&N filter. When I hit 5 bars, on the temperature gage, my bike runs rough at around 3000 rpms. I have adjusted the juice box and still no luck. I bought the bike in October 09 - used with 700 miles on it. It ran fine stock but I don't care for the stock muffler. I also have the oil catch can.

Any ideas or suggestions?

welcome
It ran fine stock, then you added a pipe / K&N / juice box, Now it's not running fine' sounds like a lean spot, Maybe your juice box isn't juicing enough.
 
Plug checks can be deceiving especially when a lean/rich condition exists only in a narrow range. You will basically get a plug reading from the fuel mix available just before you shut the engine off.

That is why tuners used to run full throttle kill the ignition and pull in the clutch at the same time. This was to get a full throttle reading.

It could be that your plugs look fine even though you are having a lean condition in a narrow RPM range.

You never said what your Juice Box settings were.
 
Plug checks can be deceiving especially when a lean/rich condition exists only in a narrow range. You will basically get a plug reading from the fuel mix available just before you shut the engine off.

That is why tuners used to run full throttle kill the ignition and pull in the clutch at the same time. This was to get a full throttle reading.

It could be that your plugs look fine even though you are having a lean condition in a narrow RPM range.QUOTE]
:agree: Goes double for EFI engines.
 
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