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4 to 5 wire converter

cobraswinger

New member
I am trying to wire my F3 T to a dart trailer that has a 5 wire plug (true 5 wire) I have been told that I need a 4 to 5 wire converter... Is a 4 to 5 wire converter different than a 5 wire to 4 wire converter ? I can get the 5 wire to 4 wire converter locally but I don't know if that is what I need. I don't want to go cutting wires until I am sure I am doing the right thing. Any help would be awesome !! thanks
 
4 to 5 vs .5 to 4

I am trying to wire my F3 T to a dart trailer that has a 5 wire plug (true 5 wire) I have been told that I need a 4 to 5 wire converter... Is a 4 to 5 wire converter different than a 5 wire to 4 wire converter ? I can get the 5 wire to 4 wire converter locally but I don't know if that is what I need. I don't want to go cutting wires until I am sure I am doing the right thing. Any help would be awesome !! thanks
The difference is , it's exactly the opposite ..... Your Spyder has 4 wires the converter ---converts that to the 5 wire trailer system ....The 5 to 4 system starts with 5 wires at the Spyder and steps it down to 4 wires at the trailer ...... The changes occur in the wiring board in the Converter ......... hope this makes it understandable ... Mike :thumbup:
 
So Mike

The difference is , it's exactly the opposite ..... Your Spyder has 4 wires the converter ---converts that to the 5 wire trailer system ....The 5 to 4 system starts with 5 wires at the Spyder and steps it down to 4 wires at the trailer ...... The changes occur in the wiring board in the Converter ......... hope this makes it understandable ... Mike :thumbup:


I need a 4 to 5 converter correct ??? sorry to sound thick :-)
 
If you already have a 5 wire trailer why convert it? You can bring 5 wires out of the Spyder.
Yup, :agree:. Spyders have a 5 wire system on board already. The module that BRP supplys is a 5 wire to 4 wire converter with separate power that isolates the trailer. That way if there is a wiring problem in the trailer only one fuse gets blown, the power for the converter. If you wire the trailer direct to the spyder wiring there is a possibility of causing problems with the turn signal circuit call hyper flash. And if you end up with wiring problems in the trailer then you loose lights on both the trailer & spyder. You'll want to make sure you use a converter/isolater with a separate fused power source.
 
Only need an isolator, no converter is needed because you have a 5 wire system on the bike and a 5 wire system on the trailer.
 
Here is a schematic of the input and output of the trailer module sold by BRP. The red arrow indicates the separate power input that comes from it's own fuse.

Capture.jpg

Notice the 5 wire input and 4 wire output.
 
My plug has 4 wires

Here is a schematic of the input and output of the trailer module sold by BRP. The red arrow indicates the separate power input that comes from it's own fuse.

View attachment 154965

Notice the 5 wire input and 4 wire output.
I have a few t
I got the main 10 wire plug shaped like a T the isolator plugs into that, I got the BRP trailer wire that plugs into the isolator and into the can am trailer. The end is black, square and 4 iwire. My trailer is 5 wires. What am I missing here. Remember i have a F3 T
 
I think what we are missing here is that somewhere there is a converter installed that is taking your 5 wire Spyder to a 4 wire plug you can't use. You will have to trace it back until you find that converter under your body work and remove it. Then you can come out with the proper 5 wires and 5 position plug. I don't know where that converter will be, but I would just follow the wires back until I found it. Now as to isolators, Maybe I have just been lucky but I have pulled trailers since the late 1980's with no isolator and never had a problem,but if you are worried put in an isolator.
 
Electrical Connection is a site vendor.
I have used their products on a number of installs.
They have the 5 wire isolator to connect to your 5 wire trailer connector.
 
Help me

Yup, :agree:. Spyders have a 5 wire system on board already. The module that BRP supplys is a 5 wire to 4 wire converter with separate power that isolates the trailer. That way if there is a wiring problem in the trailer only one fuse gets blown, the power for the converter. If you wire the trailer direct to the spyder wiring there is a possibility of causing problems with the turn signal circuit call hyper flash. And if you end up with wiring problems in the trailer then you loose lights on both the trailer & spyder. You'll want to make sure you use a converter/isolater with a separate fused power source.


Steve, so not totally understanding what I needed to do I took all of my wiring harness's modules and trailer wire to a local trailer shop. I put it all together and told the guy that this is what I want to do. He sold me a converter with 2 wires on the input and 3 wires on the output. I hooked the yellow to yellow, the green to green and the red wire to my blue wire for the brakes. The lights all came on, got excited, turned the turn signals on got more excited and then hit the brakes and the amber turn signals lit up.. I talked to a Spyder shop today and they said that what I bought isn't what I want because the can am module already took the brake and turn signals and combined them like a normal trailer. The spyder shop "Thinks" I can bypass that can am module. . I don't want this to be a guess and hope. Can I do this and if so what do I need for a converter/ isolator ??
Thank you !!
 
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