30 tooth front Sprocket

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

30 tooth spkt

maybe this will help, german quality, better then stock, 327,- $ export price ...

http://www.batquad.de/shop/ATV-QUAD-SPYDER-PARTS/CAN-AM-SPYDER/

Wilfried

Well quite a few have been waiting for this.....I don't understand your' numbers though.....327,- $ export price...???????

 

[Firefly]

Why risk it... the other ones that were sold wore out quickly...... the gains are so minimal--- it's just not worth it....

 

[r1100rider]

Why risk it... the other ones that were sold wore out quickly...... the gains are so minimal--- it's just not worth it....

The other ones were made of aluminum thats why they wore quickly the gains are not minimal i have a aluminum one that has 10,000 miles on it no problem and no wear with the new lower belt spec the lower rpm's is very nice at hy speeds, the gas savings is not much but wear and tear both to rider and machine makes it worth while a good steel one is just what we needed just remember everyone it won't work with an SE

 

[AMTJIM]

I was running dimension specs for a larger diameter rear that had similar or slightly slimmer width for the rear tire. Can't remember what the width was but a 275 would fit if I remember right and it was slightly thinner...wonder how that would do mpg/rpm wise with the 30 tooth. 4th would probably be the new 5th and 5th would be highway only.

 

[bone crusher]

The other ones were made of aluminum thats why they wore quickly the gains are not minimal i have a aluminum one that has 10,000 miles on it no problem and no wear with the new lower belt spec the lower rpm's is very nice at hy speeds, the gas savings is not much but wear and tear both to rider and machine makes it worth while a good steel one is just what we needed just remember everyone it won't work with an SE

How do you ascertain the wear to the machine? If the RPMs are a little lower, you cannot translate that to a longer engine life. The Rotax is a high-revving engine, last I checked..it has been conditioned for wear and tear for years. I certainly don't think that dropping the tach down by 200 is going to give you any noticeable engine life increase. For that matter, the obvious problems the extra sprockets have produced far outweigh any benefits.

I'd say long-term, you're more likely to have issues no matter what material they use. I'll go with the manufacturer on this one...if more sprockets are better, they would've gone this way...if we see them go that way in the future, we'll know...for now, I wouldn't play this game...no benefits, just headaches...

 

[NancysToy]

The other ones were made of aluminum thats why they wore quickly the gains are not minimal i have a aluminum one that has 10,000 miles on it no problem and no wear with the new lower belt spec the lower rpm's is very nice at hy speeds, the gas savings is not much but wear and tear both to rider and machine makes it worth while a good steel one is just what we needed just remember everyone it won't work with an SE

???? I guess it depends on what you mean by minimal. The gain is 7% on the gear ratio, resulting in only a 7% decrease in rpm. It won't result in a 7% increase in gas milage, but even if it did, that saves only 28 gallons of gas a year for a Spyder that does 12,000 miles. I personally don't see the benefit, but to each his own. :dontknow:

 

[r1100rider]

???? I guess it depends on what you mean by minimal. The gain is 7% on the gear ratio, resulting in only a 7% decrease in rpm. It won't result in a 7% increase in gas milage, but even if it did, that saves only 28 gallons of gas a year for a Spyder that does 12,000 miles. I personally don't see the benefit, but to each his own. :dontknow:

It also means about 20,000 less times the engine spins per hour of use that adds up to a lot of wear and tear over 1000's of miles it's not all about mpg it's about a much more relaxed spyder and all i can say is those who haven't ridden one geared up a little have not felt the difference if you had spent a few thousand miles with more relaxed ride you would fully understand the benefit people are spending hundreds on fender lites and all kinds of other wraps and so on so why should everyone jump all over someone wanting to spend $400 for a less buzzy ride? Besides 28 gallons a year =$112 x 3 1/2 years pays for the sprocket

 

[SilverSurfer]

the Rotax 990 is a high rev engine, so reducing revs may not necessarily be the panacea for engine wear ... quite the opposite. It has already been shown that greater tooth-count on the sprocket doesn't increase miles per gallon. My riding style usually has my RT-S topping out at 70mph for cruise. It's also the speed limit around here, but I pass at 75-80. The OEM sprocket and everything else presents a calm, effortless ride. However, cruising at 80, as someone else earlier in the thread mentioned, would bring one's ride into the "buzzy" zone just given the nature of the machine. The greater tooth count may mitigate that, but I haven't read a remarkable enough comment that convinces me it's worth the expense or risk (of premature failure) for the mod.

Despite the above, I do hail the explorers and tinkerers. They are like our test pilots.

~ Surfer

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

30 TOOTH GEAR

the Rotax 990 is a high rev engine, so reducing revs may not necessarily be the panacea for engine wear ... quite the opposite. It has already been shown that greater tooth-count on the sprocket doesn't increase miles per gallon. My riding style usually has my RT-S topping out at 70mph for cruise. It's also the speed limit around here, but I pass at 75-80. The OEM sprocket and everything else presents a calm, effortless ride. However, cruising at 80, as someone else earlier in the thread mentioned, would bring one's ride into the "buzzy" zone just given the nature of the machine. The greater tooth count may mitigate that, but I haven't read a remarkable enough comment that convinces me it's worth the expense or risk (of premature failure) for the mod.

Despite the above, I do hail the explorers and tinkerers. They are like our test pilots.

~ Surfer

Just for arguments sake....if you have the 30 tooth gear you can always ride around in 4 th and keep your revs up when it suits you...:thumbup::thumbup: Mike

 

[r1100rider]

the Rotax 990 is a high rev engine, so reducing revs may not necessarily be the panacea for engine wear ... quite the opposite. It has already been shown that greater tooth-count on the sprocket doesn't increase miles per gallon. My riding style usually has my RT-S topping out at 70mph for cruise. It's also the speed limit around here, but I pass at 75-80. The OEM sprocket and everything else presents a calm, effortless ride. However, cruising at 80, as someone else earlier in the thread mentioned, would bring one's ride into the "buzzy" zone just given the nature of the machine. The greater tooth count may mitigate that, but I haven't read a remarkable enough comment that convinces me it's worth the expense or risk (of premature failure) for the mod.

Despite the above, I do hail the explorers and tinkerers. They are like our test pilots.

~ Surfer

That must be why those diesel engines that turn 2000 Rome wear out so fast and the little high rev 4 cly engines go forever come on its only common sence that a motor has so many turns of life in it and every time it turns you use some of it up like blue nite said drive in 4 th gear all the time if you think it will make your motor last longer

 

[Firefly]

The other ones were made of aluminum thats why they wore quickly the gains are not minimal i have a aluminum one that has 10,000 miles on it no problem and no wear with the new lower belt spec the lower rpm's is very nice at hy speeds, the gas savings is not much but wear and tear both to rider and machine makes it worth while a good steel one is just what we needed just remember everyone it won't work with an SE

I guess you haven't seen the BRP tech release about how running too low of RPM's will cause damage........

My main concern is damage to the main shaft.... which I had on my Spyder.. as have many others have had and BRP covered many of them..... but what do you think BRP will do if you have such damage and they see you're running a 3rd party sprocket??

I guarantee they won't cover the damage under warranty... they will blame the 3rd party sprocket.

 

[r1100rider]

I guess you haven't seen the BRP tech release about how running too low of RPM's will cause damage........

My main concern is damage to the main shaft.... which I had on my Spyder.. as have many others have had and BRP covered many of them..... but what do you think BRP will do if you have such damage and they see you're running a 3rd party sprocket??

I guarantee they won't cover the damage under warranty... they will blame the 3rd party sprocket.

That tec release has to due with the se clutches not being fully engaged under 3300 rpm using everyones logic on here im sure the motorcycle the spyder motor came from that had a 6 speed must be having all kinds of problems caused by those who shift it into 6th ,there would be way less wear if we all run at 7500 rpm in 3rd gear when we are on the freeway ,yes mods are mods and as far as brp coverage goes

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

MAIN SHAFT DAMAGE

I guess you haven't seen the BRP tech release about how running too low of RPM's will cause damage........

My main concern is damage to the main shaft.... which I had on my Spyder.. as have many others have had and BRP covered many of them..... but what do you think BRP will do if you have such damage and they see you're running a 3rd party sprocket??

I guarantee they won't cover the damage under warranty... they will blame the 3rd party sprocket.

Wasn't the shaft damage linked to the belts being way to tight....and the low RPM'S issue relates to the the SE'S , correct.....Mike ?????

 

[r1100rider]

How do you ascertain the wear to the machine? If the RPMs are a little lower, you cannot translate that to a longer engine life. The Rotax is a high-revving engine, last I checked..it has been conditioned for wear and tear for years. I certainly don't think that dropping the tach down by 200 is going to give you any noticeable engine life increase. For that matter, the obvious problems the extra sprockets have produced far outweigh any benefits.

I'd say long-term, you're more likely to have issues no matter what material they use. I'll go with the manufacturer on this one...if more sprockets are better, they would've gone this way...if we see them go that way in the future, we'll know...for now, I wouldn't play this game...no benefits, just headaches...

It s 400 rpm for the 30t 200 for the 29t I hear that those aprillia s with the rotax 990 6 speed are all wearing out because the riders are using 6 th gear face it every body they took away our 6 speed to give us a reverse and a steel sprocket built to the same spec s as the OEM won't hurt a thing and is a benicia that those who have tried can feel and those who haven't are only talking and guess at the possible feel

 

[Firefly]

That tec release has to due with the se clutches not being fully engaged under 3300 rpm using everyones logic on here im sure the motorcycle the spyder motor came from that had a 6 speed must be having all kinds of problems caused by those who shift it into 6th ,there would be way less wear if we all run at 7500 rpm in 3rd gear when we are on the freeway ,yes mods are mods and as far as brp coverage goes

Yup-- we got reverse in exchange for 6th gear from the Aprilla camp... but I'm not sure if the gearing was the same otherwise... and I'm doubting people used 6th on those bikes until they were well over 100 mph......

Too low of RPMS can cause damage.. regardless of whether it's the SE5 or SM5. I doubt 400 rpms will do much damage...just like it won't help much on MPG.

My main concern is spline wear...... as someone who had it.... you don't want it.. and if you get it... you sure as heck don't want to have to try and argue the point with BRP pertaining to using a 3rd party sprocket.

 

[r1100rider]

Yup-- we got reverse in exchange for 6th gear from the Aprilla camp... but I'm not sure if the gearing was the same otherwise... and I'm doubting people used 6th on those bikes until they were well over 100 mph......

Too low of RPMS can cause damage.. regardless of whether it's the SE5 or SM5. I doubt 400 rpms will do much damage...just like it won't help much on MPG.

My main concern is spline wear...... as someone who had it.... you don't want it.. and if you get it... you sure as heck don't want to have to try and argue the point with BRP pertaining to using a 3rd party sprocket.

Just think right now millions of cars trucks motorcycles driving down the freeway to work at 65mph in 6th gear oh the horror of it if they only new that they would be causing less wear if they would just drop a couple of gears and run along at redline, you say you had spline problems[with the stock sprocket] the people who had those issues had them because the belt spec was to tight and or the sprocket bolts backed out BRP is calling for checking the bolts often the number of teeth on the sprocket had nothing to do with spline wear or loose bolts ,I solved this a long time ago by drilling the bolt head and safety wiring the bolt BRP should't have tried to reinvent the wheel on this one and used the same set up every chain drive bike has used for 50 years course splines with a nut held on by a washer folded over the ear of the nut can't come off and the larger splines won't wear

 

[Firefly]

Just think right now millions of cars trucks motorcycles driving down the freeway to work at 65mph in 6th gear oh the horror of it if they only new that they would be causing less wear if they would just drop a couple of gears and run along at redline, you say you had spline problems[with the stock sprocket] the people who had those issues had them because the belt spec was to tight and or the sprocket bolts backed out BRP is calling for checking the bolts often the number of teeth on the sprocket had nothing to do with spline wear or loose bolts ,I solved this a long time ago by drilling the bolt head and safety wiring the bolt BRP should't have tried to reinvent the wheel on this one and used the same set up every chain drive bike has used for 50 years course splines with a nut held on by a washer folded over the ear of the nut can't come off and the larger splines won't wear

You obviously don't get that not all vehicles, engines and transmissions are created the same and that 6th gear on one is not the same as 6th gear on another. A HD engine for example is very happy running at 2,000 -3,000 rpms while in 5th and 6th gears. The spyder obviously is NOT... but go ahead... run yours in 5th gear at 2,000 rpms-- just think of all the gas money you'll save..... :roflblack:. All vehicles will lug the engine at different gearing and rpm combinations.

Safety wiring the bolt isn't going to stop spline damage. The bolt doesn't have to come loose in order for damage to occur. No need to wire the bolt if it's properly installed and inspected at regular intervals. I only know of a few people that had the bolt come out. The rest of us with spline damage had it happen with the bolt 100% still locked into place.

And yes-- my damage continued to happen AFTER the new torque spec.... although I rode mine really hard and thus put additional stress on it. Was on my 3rd sprocket when I totaled the Spyder.

I will say that at least the Mel's ones were cheaply made and probably wore out easily before doing much shaft damage. If they were made of anything stronger than the shaft material--- the shaft will take the damage.

Regardless... the point is that BRP isn't going to cover spline damage on your main shaft if they know you're running a 3rd party sprocket... just like they won't cover engine damage if you're running a turbo.

 

[r1100rider]

You obviously don't get that not all vehicles, engines and transmissions are created the same and that 6th gear on one is not the same as 6th gear on another. A HD engine for example is very happy running at 2,000 -3,000 rpms while in 5th and 6th gears. The spyder obviously is NOT... but go ahead... run yours in 5th gear at 2,000 rpms-- just think of all the gas money you'll save..... :roflblack:. All vehicles will lug the engine at different gearing and rpm combinations.

Safety wiring the bolt isn't going to stop spline damage. The bolt doesn't have to come loose in order for damage to occur. No need to wire the bolt if it's properly installed and inspected at regular intervals. I only know of a few people that had the bolt come out. The rest of us with spline damage had it happen with the bolt 100% still locked into place.

And yes-- my damage continued to happen AFTER the new torque spec.... although I rode mine really hard and thus put additional stress on it. Was on my 3rd sprocket when I totaled the Spyder.

I will say that at least the Mel's ones were cheaply made and probably wore out easily before doing much shaft damage. If they were made of anything stronger than the shaft material--- the shaft will take the damage.

Regardless... the point is that BRP isn't going to cover spline damage on your main shaft if they know you're running a 3rd party sprocket... just like they won't cover engine damage if you're running a turbo.

Never said anything about running my spyder at 2000 rpms its about running 4100 instead of 4500 at hy speeds and i never said it was about gas mpg its about wear and tear on motor and rider using your logic you would be better off with a 24 tooth front so that your motor would run more rpm and be easier on everything yes i understand a harley is different the point is motors wear as they turn every turn wears it more there are only so many rotations it is going to make in its life, i dont lug my motor on anything and a spyder is not being hurt running 4500 instead of 4900 some people understand that some don't, the point of BRP coverage has been made many times by many people about many different mods and i never claimed they should or will cover any 3rd party item as you well know with your 02 mod and juice box on your old RS

 

[Firefly]

:banghead::banghead::banghead:

Dumb BRP Engineers don't know nuthin'...... :roflblack:




:bbq:

 

[MidLifeCrisis]

There are still too many variables for engine wear. My concern for running the Rotax at lower RPM would be that it would cause more engine wear, rather than less. Higher gears are harder to turn and if an engine is designed for high RPMs and forced to operate outside its zone, it will increase engine wear.

When my RT is at 4500 RPMs its smooth and responsive, but responsiveness drops at 4200 and I have to give it more throttle to keep it happy. By going to a 30 tooth, I would have to stay in 4th, where I'm currently in 5th.

I like the thought process, but don't see it having the results you hope for. Another example... When my Spyder was running into 6 bars over the weekend, I would go into a lower gear, let the engine rev higher and have more leverage and it the temp gauge would drop to 5 bars immediately.

Sounds counter to the argument made, but in reality these engines are happiest at higher revs and struggle at lower revs. At some speeds, it takes more throttle to keep them going, so you may see lower mileage than with the stock setup.

I'm curious to see how this turns out over time.


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