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30 psi in frt tires

I went as high as 23 PSI and thought that was to much.

I felt better at 19 psi for the Spyder but I am running Federal Formoza on mine.

Never liked the stock tires.

Good luck on this topic. :shocked:
 
I'm running 17 lbs and the bike handles great. You can run what you feel comfortable with, but in rain you will see the difference. Also I feel 17 lbs sticks better in curves than the higher pressure. But like I said each to their own.
David
 
Oh, boy.... here we go. I can't believe that there is such hard feelings in this topic!

I run my front Yokohamas at 26psi's on my RT. Love the handling. Some will claim that 14psi is the only safe pressure.
 
I'm running 17 lbs and the bike handles great. You can run what you feel comfortable with, but in rain you will see the difference. Also I feel 17 lbs sticks better in curves than the higher pressure. But like I said each to their own.
David

I disagree about the rain. I've run 25-26psi in many different situations. Even tried to skid them out in a wet parking lot, and couldn't get it to happen. My belief is that it is speculation that it will have an unsafe characteristic with this type of psi. I know that I run my RT a lot harder than probably the 'average' Spyder rider. I still can't get them to slide. But, I can get 14psi to mush around like wet socks.

Someone is dying to get out on this subject.... and, 3....2.....1......
 
I disagree about the rain. I've run 25-26psi in many different situations. Even tried to skid them out in a wet parking lot, and couldn't get it to happen. My belief is that it is speculation that it will have an unsafe characteristic with this type of psi. I know that I run my RT a lot harder than probably the 'average' Spyder rider. I still can't get them to slide. But, I can get 14psi to mush around like wet socks.

Someone is dying to get out on this subject.... and, 3....2.....1......

I'm running a 08 GS and it is a lot lighter than yours. Like yourself I'm not the average rider. I tend to run the limits. I use to run right with the sport bikes on deals gap on my Honda Valkyrie. Not all of them, but a lot of them.
David
 
Here's the thing....

I run 17lbs and have found that to be the best for my style (agressive as the nanny :roflblack:) but rain or not traction was not the issue with the higher pressures what I found was hopping in the curves. The best pressure is the one you feel most comfortable with. Car tires with higher ply's can react differently and the higher the pressure the rougher on the driver as you loose some suspension with less flex in the tire. In the end the tire has a max pressure rating stay under that ...
 
You haven't said what kind of tires you have.
If they are stock 2 ply Kendas, then 30 PSI will round out the profile, minimizing the contact patch.
It puts the bike up on the "Balls Of It's Feet" so to speak.
This makes it much easier to turn. The bike seems very responsive.
Until you go out on the highway.
At highway speeds, that much tire pressure will make the bike seem twitchy, and almost uncontrollable.
Also, by rounding the profile, you create excessive wear, necessitating early tire replacement.
The minimum contact patch won't be helpful in the rain.
But, it's a matter of choice. If you're comfortable with the feel of the bike and your style of riding, then go for it.
The tires won't shred or fall off the rims.

And if you're NOT running the stock Kendas, and have a different brand, then I don't know what I'm talking about and everything I said could be wrong.
 
Front Tires

All Good Tips. The Bottom Line is 'Your Choice'. :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: Little Blue
 
tire psi

You haven't said what kind of tires you have.
If they are stock 2 ply Kendas, then 30 PSI will round out the profile, minimizing the contact patch.
It puts the bike up on the "Balls Of It's Feet" so to speak.
This makes it much easier to turn. The bike seems very responsive.
Until you go out on the highway.
At highway speeds, that much tire pressure will make the bike seem twitchy, and almost uncontrollable.
Also, by rounding the profile, you create excessive wear, necessitating early tire replacement.
The minimum contact patch won't be helpful in the rain.
But, it's a matter of choice. If you're comfortable with the feel of the bike and your style of riding, then go for it.
The tires won't shred or fall off the rims.

And if you're NOT running the stock Kendas, and have a different brand, then I don't know what I'm talking about and everything I said could be wrong.
What you said above about Kenda's is very much correct .......... Kenda's are weak compared to Auto tires ...... But high psi in auto tires will lower their traction also and for some of the same reasons ............Mike :thumbup::thumbup:
 
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I find that 20 psi works best for me on my RSS, RT, and F3T when riding aggressive. I sometimes go to 18 when just cruising.
I have tried 32 psi in my RSS and found that there was a little too much bounce when the road got a little rough.
Just try what works best for you and take the others advice with a grain of salt.
 
What you said above about Kenda's is very much correct .......... Kenda's are weak compared to Auto tires ...... But high psi in auto tires will lower their traction also and for some of the same reasons ............Mike :thumbup::thumbup:

Kenda's are "weak" only because they have a softer rubber tread....because the machine they support is lighter.(to maintain traction)
Car tires are stronger....... because the machine they support is heavier.
My stock Kenda tires are doing awesome. 15,000 rear and 20,000+ for the front.
No need to risk extending my breaking distance to save a few bucks (or risk an accident).
What I'm reading on the use of car tires is why dealers, car tire manufacturers and installers mandate a waiver be signed.

BTW....I keep my awesome Kenda tires at 19PSI front and 28PSI rear.

19 in the front cause I installed the Baja Ron sway bar which eased up on the steering effort.
 
...My stock Kenda tires are doing awesome. 15,000 rear and 20,000+ for the front...
My rear Kenda did 17K (below) but my front Kendas still have at least 25% tread-life remaining at over 45,000 miles! I run the recommended 18-22psi in them.

But then I don't have very much hard turning to do; mostly just flat & straight here in the Rio Grande Valley.
 
TIRE PSI

Kenda's are "weak" only because they have a softer rubber tread....because the machine they support is lighter.(to maintain traction)
Car tires are stronger....... because the machine they support is heavier.
My stock Kenda tires are doing awesome. 15,000 rear and 20,000+ for the front.
No need to risk extending my breaking distance to save a few bucks (or risk an accident).
What I'm reading on the use of car tires is why dealers, car tire manufacturers and installers mandate a waiver be signed.

BTW....I keep my awesome Kenda tires at 19PSI front and 28PSI rear.

19 in the front cause I installed the Baja Ron sway bar which eased up on the steering effort.
Sorry R.K. but #1 & #2 are wrong, plus #2 doesn't make sense !!!! ..... Kenda's are weak because they don't have enough plies or strong enough plies to support more weight ............. and concerning Braking distance vs. cost ..... 1 inch of braking distance could mean $1000.00 plus in body panel damage ....annnnnnnnnnnd your Kenda Spyder tires ....NEEDS those psi's because it is a weak tire, and has nothing to do with tread compound...... Mike :thumbup:
 
Sorry R.K. but #1 & #2 are wrong, plus #2 doesn't make sense !!!! ..... Kenda's are weak because they don't have enough plies or strong enough plies to support more weight ............. and concerning Braking distance vs. cost ..... 1 inch of braking distance could mean $1000.00 plus in body panel damage ....annnnnnnnnnnd your Kenda Spyder tires ....NEEDS those psi's because it is a weak tire, and has nothing to do with tread compound...... Mike :thumbup:

Kenda tires are not "weak"....they have a softer rubber compound because they need to stop a lighter vehicle.
The reason tire manufacturers will not list certain vehicles is due to the weight of the intended vehicle.
They know from their research a stronger tread on a lighter vehicle causes braking distances to increase.
Your complete lack of knowledge is why there are waivers to be signed or flat out denial of a tires sale.
You are a classic example of a know-it-all who does something then blames it on someone else...(why waivers need to be signed)
Stop pretending you have a clue and are smarter then the engineers/scientists who develop both the tires and its use.
Log onto any tire website, they talk weight ratings.....not too many cars out there that weigh less then a 1000lbs Mike.
 
Kenda tires are not "weak"....they have a softer rubber compound because they need to stop a lighter vehicle.
The reason tire manufacturers will not list certain vehicles is due to the weight of the intended vehicle.
They know from their research a stronger tread on a lighter vehicle causes braking distances to increase.
Your complete lack of knowledge is why there are waivers to be signed or flat out denial of a tires sale.
You are a classic example of a know-it-all who does something then blames it on someone else...(why waivers need to be signed)
Stop pretending you have a clue and are smarter then the engineers/scientists who develop both the tires and its use.
Log onto any tire website, they talk weight ratings.....not too many cars out there that weigh less then a 1000lbs Mike.

BK, what's your answer or are you still typing? Be nice now. :roflblack::roflblack:
 
TIRE PSI

Kenda tires are not "weak"....they have a softer rubber compound because they need to stop a lighter vehicle.
The reason tire manufacturers will not list certain vehicles is due to the weight of the intended vehicle.
They know from their research a stronger tread on a lighter vehicle causes braking distances to increase.
Your complete lack of knowledge is why there are waivers to be signed or flat out denial of a tires sale.
You are a classic example of a know-it-all who does something then blames it on someone else...(why waivers need to be signed)
Stop pretending you have a clue and are smarter then the engineers/scientists who develop both the tires and its use.
Log onto any tire website, they talk weight ratings.....not too many cars out there that weigh less then a 1000lbs Mike.
Why have you decided " Attacking me personally " proves or bolsters your theories on this subject ???? .... I'm not a " know-it-all " and I resent the inference..... the views I express on tires is based on my Schooling and training in the subject. I have testified in Court about what tires can and can't do based on my knowledge. It's known as " Expert witness testimony " , NOT - " know-it-all testimony ". There are people who THINK they know what they are talking about .....and a couple here who actually KNOW what they are talking about............ Everyone has the right to believe what they want, the problem arises ( for me ) is when they make statements that are Scientifically false, and that information could potentially hurt people ..... I will never argue with anyone who states that red ( or blue - white - yellow etc. ) is the best / nicest color, because it doesn't matter. But tire " PSI " does...... My message is about safety ..... frankly I don't know what your message is ............ Mike :thumbup:
 
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