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1330cc 28k mile service on 2014 RT

U

UtahPete

Active member
In addition to the normal engine oil and filter change (which I have done and can do again), the BRP Maintenance Schedule calls for;

  1. Replace HCM oil filter
  2. Replace canister pre-filter
  3. Replace engine coolant
  4. Replace spark plug
Are any of these difficult to accomplish? Please link to YouTube videos, if any. Thanks.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The spark plug change is the difficult job. IdahoMtnSpyder did an excellent job explaining it in this post: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?115352-RT-1330-Spark-plug-changeout-Part-1&highlight=spark+plug. FWIW, if you remove the frunk, which makes the job much easier, do not start the engine until you have reinstalled the frunk and all the electrical connections. If you do, the engine will throw a couple of codes regarding the engine ambient air temperature sensor. The code will disappear once you reconnect all the wiring.
 
UtahPete said:
In addition to the normal engine oil and filter change (which I have done and can do again), the BRP Maintenance Schedule calls for;

  1. Replace HCM oil filter
  2. Replace canister pre-filter
  3. Replace engine coolant
  4. Replace spark plug
Are any of these difficult to accomplish? Please link to YouTube videos, if any. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Can someone tell me what is meant by the 'canister pre-filter? Thanks
 
It's on the rear of the bike behind the left side bag mounted to the frame. Evap canister

Haven't done my plugs yet and now have 34k on the bike. Did do everything else do far.
 
Some of this maintenance stuff is over kill. Never the less use your own judgment. Plugs & wires, trans filter, coolant, brake fluid and air filter these days last much longer than yesterday. Other posters here have concurred. These items will likely out last your brake pads and most assuredly your OEM rear tire. When I did my 28k service/inspection most everything was clean as a pin and showed no signs of deterioration. The 9k oil/filter change is done by most owners, but remember oil doesn’t wear out, it becomes contaminated. Used oil is cleaned/re-refined and used for many purposes including motor oil. Of course, we spyder owners shear down our oil because it goes through the transmission. It shears down to about 20w and remains there for the remainder of its use. 9k miles on quality synthetic oils may only be half life if the filter is changed often. (I’ve never ran it and tested it beyond 9k.) However, a matter of caution, always follow your manufactures maintenance requirements so as not to invalidate your warrantee. After that, send in your ECM and get a stage 2 upgrade and it will be a new ride all over again.
 
UtahPete said:
That's probably it. Thanks.
Click to expand...

No, Pete, Parts 27 and 27a in the parts shark link are the engine fuel filter/fuel filter assembly. The fuel filter assembly includes the fuel filter and its two appropriately sized Oetiker clamps and you can see the assembly is cheaper than the filter and Oetiker clamps sold individually.

The emissions pre-filter, Air Filter Evaporative emission component is Item #60 in the link diagram, PN 709000524, and its Oetiker clamp is Item 17, PN 293650186.

FWIW, I found when I replaced the pre-filter during my 28K service the Tuflock Plastic Phillips screws, PN414745900, fit kind of sloppy in their holes so I replaced them with new ones when I did the pre-filter again at the 56K service.

Another FWIW, the 2014 maintenance schedule calls for the fuel filter to be replaced at 19K; however, later model years beginning with MY 2016 extended the change interval to 28K or five years, whichever comes first. When I pointed this our to the very helpful folks at BRPCare, including telling them that the part numbers for both MYs were the same and asked for clarification, they told me to ask my dealer. Big help, huh! I asked the dealership and they said to change the fuel filter at 28K intervals which makes good sense since one is doing all the other big things at that interval. I've noticed no difference in engine performance at the 28K interval -- two changes worth.
 
Its # 60 for the evap canister on the link that was posted.

All it was is a plastic housing with a black charcoal filter in it..Mine was still good but changed it anyway.
 
UtahPete said:
What is the HCM filter? Kind of pricey at $96.
Click to expand...

Hydraulic Control Module. And they are expensive! When you figure it up. The cost is nearly the exact same amount for 1 SE6 Transmission filter as the number of transmission filters needed (4,500 mile service interval) for the SE5 at 28k. Amazing how that works out!

Though I use it too. 'Transmission Filter' is a misnomer. The transmission itself is lubricated by the same oil that runs through the engine oil filter. The HCM filters only that oil going to the hydraulic shifting mechanism. Which, once you know what HCM stands for, makes perfect sense!

And the 1330's have no spark plug wires, as such. They have simple 12v wires going to the coil which connects directly to the spark plug. No need for high voltage wires as in the past.
 
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i've said it b4; the spark plugs (bougies) were PERFECT when i pulled mine at 44,000 miles on my 1st F3...
it took me 2 days, 5 hrs each day, to complete the job of changing 3 plugs (bougies)... keep in mind that these plugs (bougies) are 'irridium' plugs, and can last for well over 100,000 miles of operation in most all vehicles...
NOTE: AND A VERY IMPORTANT NOTE; HAVE A GAS FILTER HANDY WHEN CHANGING THE PLUGS.... otherwise, you'll again need to pull the entire top off your ride to change it at a later time....
best of luck....
SPYD3R MAN DAN
 
Pete, the 2014 operator's guide calls for the fuel filter to be changed at 19K or 5 years, whichever comes first. In MY 2016 BRP moved it out to 28K.
 
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