2024 RT Limited stalling at engine start when warm - anyone else experience this? Any ideas?

[LexxyT]

My 2024 RT Limited is experiencing a random problem of stalling once while starting.

If starting the engine from cold, it'll fire up fine and idle away no problems. It doesn't stall when driving off. All perfect.

After driving for a few minutes, if I stop the engine for under 20 minutes it'll fire up fine and no issues.

The problem is when it's been running for a while and I stop for more than 20 minutes and then try to start it again. There's a 50/50 chance it'll fire up fine, but a 50/50 chance it starts and then immediately stalls. It's as if I just turned off the key. When I press the starter again, it fires up fine. It's just that first warm start after being off for more than 20 minutes.

Dealer has no idea, but as he's 200km away it's painful taking it back and forth for him to look at it. So I'm just wondering if anyone else has experienced anything similar???

Not sure if it is related, but the air compressor for the rear suspension doesn't work (never has). However, I can't see how that would affect the ignition system??

 

[Mikey]

Well, if you have the base RT, you don't have the compressor, and you should be adjusting it with the Schraeder valve under the seat; if you have the RTL, then someone should be fixing it for you on BRP's dime! As far as what's going on with your stalling out, it could be a number of things that's hard to figure out, but without seeing it in person, there's a Gremlin there some were! Relay or safety there in the starting circuit hanging up, someone with a bigger brain will have to help you there! Good luck!

 

[LexxyT]

Well, if you have the base RT, you don't have the compressor, and you should be adjusting it with the Schraeder valve under the seat; if you have the RTL, then someone should be fixing it for you on BRP's dime! As far as what's going on with your stalling out, it could be a number of things that's hard to figure out, but without seeing it in person, there's a Gremlin there some were! Relay or safety there in the starting circuit hanging up, someone with a bigger brain will have to help you there! Good luck!

I kind of agree with you that BRP should be fixing it. However, this is a replacement bike for the previous one I had with block porosity issues. It was in the dealership for 6 months, and I have only just got this one; so I'm loath to be without it again for another half year! Going to order a new battery, as this one is 18 months old and already shows signs of weak cranking. Odd if it is the battery though, that it only stalls when warm...

 

[Peter Aawen]

I doubt very much that the compressor has anything to do with the stalling issue - just about EVERY RT with a compressor has either already had that same 'compressor not running' issue or will have that issue at some stage; the whole ACS, including the cheap arse compressors that are renowned for failing, are a part & parcel of the 'great idea, piss poor execution' of the ACS by BRP! So while Mikey's comments are spot on concerning the compressor, I reckon you can safely disregard the compressor as being any direct part of your stalling issue.

When it comes to the stalling issue, yeah, it certainly could be due to the battery being on its way out, especially if you keep it on a 'tender' between rides! Doing that tends to hide a poor, dying, or even an effectively dead battery for the very first start after taking it off the tender, and it's then much more likely to catch you out &/or leave you with starting issues on the next/subsequent starts when you've ridden away from home and stopped for a while - with your 'stalls on starting after sitting for 20 minutes' thing juuust happens to come pretty close to coinciding with how long the Spyder's computers etc stay at least partially on after shutting the engine off, adding to the unreplenished drain on the battery - so that 'only stalling when you're away from home & have stopped for more than 20 minutes' which you describe sounds very much like it could be a poor or dying battery that's just not up to keeping everything running properly, especially if you keep it on a tender apt home/between rides - do you?

Regardless, if you're going to get a new battery, just make sure that you don't get another one of those cheap factory offerings from BRP that are barely up to the task at the best of times - ideally, you NEED a good quality battery with at least 350 CCA & 21 A/hr - and before installing it, you need to KNOW without any shadow of a doubt &/or just taking the retailer's word for it that it's spent AT LEAST 8 hours on a proper charger BEFORE it gets installed in your Spyder. If you don't know that, then the chances are pretty high that you'll be looking for another new battery well before you really should need to! Many if not most dealers &/or battery retailers just give the batteries they install a quick charge to give it a 12+volt surface charge before installing it, expecting you to take it away and ride it for long enough after collecting it to EITHER top it up so it's a little closer to fully charged (but it won't truly be 'fully charged', cos an alternator won't ever truly 'fully charge' a battery anyway!) OR you will've ridden far enough away from them that by the time the partially charged 'new battery' they gave you fails, you won't be their problem anyway!

Just Sayin'!

 

[LexxyT]

I doubt very much that the compressor has anything to do with the stalling issue - just about EVERY RT with a compressor has either had that same 'compressor not running' issue or will have that issue at some stage, the cheap arse compressors are a part & parcel of the 'great idea, piss poor execution' of the ACS by BRP! So while Mikey's comments are spot on concerning that, I reckon you can safely disregard the compressor as being any direct part of your stalling issue.

When it comes to the stalling issue, yeah, it could be due to the battery being on its way out, especially if you keep it on a 'tender' between rides! Doing that tends to hide a poor, dying, or even an effectively dead battery for the very first start after taking it off the tender, and is then much more likely to catch you out &/or leave you with starting issues on the next/subsequent starts when you've ridden away from home and stopped for a while; and your 'sitting for 20 minutes' thing juuust happening to come pretty close to coinciding with how long the Spyder's computers etc stay at least partially on after shutting the engine off, adding to the unreplenished drain on the battery - so that 'only stalling when you're away from home & have stopped for more than 20 minutes' which you describe sounds very much like it could be a poor or dying battery problem, especially if you keep it on a tender between rides - do you?

If you're going to get a new battery, make sure that it's not one of the cheap factory offerings from BRP that are barely up to the task at the best of times - ideally, you NEED a good quality battery with at least 350 CCA & 21 A/hr - and before installing it, you need to KNOW without any shadow of a doubt &/or just taking the retailer's word for it that it's spent AT LEAST 8 hours on a proper charger BEFORE it gets installed in your Spyder. If you don't know that, then the chances are pretty high that you'll be looking for another new battery well before you really should need to! Many if not most dealers &/or battery retailers just give the batteries they install a quick charge to give it a 12+volt surface charge before installing it, expecting you to take it away and ride it for long enough after collecting it to EITHER top it up so it's a little closer to fully charged (but it won't truly be 'fully charged', cos an alternator won't ever truly 'fully charge' a battery anyway!) OR you will've ridden far enough away from them that by the time the partially charged 'new battery' they gave you fails, you won't be their problem anyway!

Just Sayin'!

I don't actually have it on a tender yet. I haven't got around to hooking up the plug yet. But what you're saying makes sense. I'll get hold of a new battery and see what that does for it. Thanks for the info.