2019 RTL won't shift up (fixed'ish - only now it's un-fixed again!)

[Snoking1127]

All of this makes me want to use helmet flashers that are not connected to the bike in any way and never use anything connected to the bikes lighting circuit. If i do ever mod, then it will be a fused relay directly from the battery with a kill switch

This brake light circuit is straight for 12V from the battery and the can bus is not involved. Step on the brake pedal with the key not even in the machine and the brake lights work.

Battery - fuse - brake switch - brake lights.

 

[Snoking1127]

Interesting reading this thread today. Yesterday on our ride (4 Spiders) our ride leader pulled over to the side of the road as her RT would not shift. I didn't ask her what year her RT is, but it's in the 15-18 year range. I was able to get it into reverse, but not any forward gears. Was calling for a tow when someone else was able to get it into 1st.
She then took off for home, but she had to slow down for a turn and when the Spyder down shifted it would not upshift again. We could not get it to upshift, so we pushed it in to a clearing. She rode behind another rider, and we proceeded to her home 70 miles away. Her husband was unable to help, but the lady she rode behind said that she has a Spyder trailer at her place. That was another 30 miles away.
They headed to get that (and her boyfriend to help) and I headed back to her Spyder to wait for them. About 2 hours later they showed up and all 4 of us were able to get it up the ramp and into the enclosed trailer.
The dealer will look at it Wednesday. I think it's the paddle shifter, or gear position sensor.
I do find it interesting that it will go into reverse, but not forward.
Found out it's an 2018.

I was involved with Brenda's shifting failure from the sidelines. My friend Jerry was on that ride and called me. I started doing research on replacing the LHC and found this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DFoFIGbpcCI&t=6s

It is a really big job to do that left hand cluster replacement. Dealer jerked Brenda around on price and when I was straightened out it was around $1200. The plug on the end of the cable has to be unpinned (lots of wires) to route the cable down the steering column and then all those pins need to be reinserted in the plug. This is all buried deep inside the Spyder.

 

[RTWolfie]

I realized my mistake after I posted the above. I had in mind one of those add-on devices, and then realized the Monster was a reflash, not an add-on.

I have the handheld "Genius" programming unit as well, and I went back to stock for a week and it still happened. I told the dealer about it so they don't start chasing that route.

 

[ClayJ]

When I pulled into the shop they pulled the codes and it was giving a U0128 code. So now they are looking at the parking brake and sensor.

I really hope they figure something out. I really really hope it's something inexpensive to fix.

 

[RTWolfie]

I really hope they figure something out. I really really hope it's something inexpensive to fix.

Well she's been in the shop for another 2 weeks, that make 7 weeks in the shop since Dec 8th. They are still chasing the U0128 code and also the windscreen motor and sensor which BRP feels might be involved. Man I really miss my bike. I'm second guessing owing this thing but I can't even sell it like it is. I have faith in my shop but they are chasing an intermittent issue that occurs at random and then just goes away.

 

[ClayJ]

they are chasing an intermittent issue that occurs at random and then just goes away.

At least your mechanics are taking the issue seriously. My mechanic continues to insinuate that I'm an idiot and don't know how to push the shift-up button correctly. "Reproduce the issue and we'll fix it" they said. Otherwise they don't want to waste their time.

 

[Peter Aawen]

At least your mechanics are taking the issue seriously. My mechanic continues to insinuate that I'm an idiot and don't know how to push the shift-up button correctly. "Reproduce the issue and we'll fix it" they said. Otherwise they don't want to waste their time.

I'm pretty sure there's TSB's out there about your issue &/or the LH Control Module Failures; a bit of searching & reading should find everything that applies. Take copies of the TSB details to your dealer and ask them to deal with it &/or open a case with BRP... and if they don't, send an email direct to BRPCares (there's an email address here too, shoudn't take much of a search to find that) explaining your issue and the dealer's lack of interest in even looking into the TSB; and when you send it, add a CC copy to your local Better Business mob, or whatever it is you have over there. The BRPCares mob might take a bit of a while sometimes, but they generally get the wheels moving when nothing else works! Good Luck! :thumbup:

 

[RTWolfie]

At least your mechanics are taking the issue seriously. My mechanic continues to insinuate that I'm an idiot and don't know how to push the shift-up button correctly. "Reproduce the issue and we'll fix it" they said. Otherwise they don't want to waste their time.

I guess I'm lucky then as my shop doesn't question that it happens, it's happened to them as well. My shop loves me and considers me a brand ambassador. I'm also lucky I still have warranty. But I keep wondering if they'll ever find out the cause and what I'll do if they don't. Live with it? Too many computers in these machines!

 

[Mikey]

If I were dealing with this issue, I would have a hard time not making these issues someone else's! :gaah: I hate things that don't work as they should, and things these days are too complicated. People like gadgets that involve microchips and switches and all that junk that breaks and is hard to fix. Then you throw in a farkle or two, and all of that has to play well with the rest of the gang. Good Luck to all that are having this issue, I would lose my mind if I was you, and some lighting would strike!!:dontknow:

 

[RTWolfie]

I'm pretty sure there's TSB's out there about your issue &/or the LH Control Module Failures; a bit of searching & reading should find everything that applies. Take copies of the TSB details to your dealer and ask them to deal with it &/or open a case with BRP... and if they don't, send an email direct to BRPCares (there's an email address here too, shouldn't take much of a search to find that) explaining your issue and the dealer's lack of interest in even looking into the TSB; and when you send it, add a CC copy to your local Better Business mob, or whatever it is you have over there. The BRPCares mob might take a bit of a while sometimes, but they generally get the wheels moving when nothing else works! Good Luck! :thumbup:

They have already replaced the LH switch cluster, unfortunately it didn't solve the issue. Neither has disconnecting all of my aftermarket tail lighting. My dealer is really good and I believe they are trying to solve the issue, but the fact is only shows up randomly is making it hard for them to nail down the cause. They have been in contact with BRP and have an active case going with them.

 

[Peter Aawen]

They have already replaced the LH switch cluster, unfortunately it didn't solve the issue. Neither has disconnecting all of my aftermarket tail lighting. My dealer is really good and I believe they are trying to solve the issue, but the fact is only shows up randomly is making it hard for them to nail down the cause. They have been in contact with BRP and have an active case going with them.

That response of mine that you quoted RTWolfie, was directed specifically at ClayJ's issues.

Still, I reckon I've posted this about your issues before; but I can't help but think that whoever replaced your LH Switch Cluster didn't do the most careful of jobs, and they've either pinched or kinked/damaged some wires during that replacement cluster install, or they've failed to properly fix/connect a connector or two in there somewhere?! Altho considering the intermittent nature of your ongoing issues, maybe it's not just pinched wires or a loose connector being jostled by wiring movements as you ride... it might even be that one or more of the pins in a connector aren't fully/properly seated & so they are only loosely engaged & occasionally don't connect well enough? Has anyone ever pulled all the panels off and rechecked all the first lot of replacement work, &/or checked each of the connectors in the loom that might've been touched/moved?? :dontknow:

Or maybe you've just entirely lucked out and have managed to score a second faulty LH Cluster?! It's not beyond the realms of possibility - it certainly wouldn't be the first time or likely the last time either, that a 'supposedly good' replacement also failed!?! :banghead:

 

[RTWolfie]

Well Clay I think they finally fixed it. They replaced the Windshield Control Module and it's been 3 weeks with no recurrence. The last code they pulled was "U0128 - Lost Communication with Park Brake Control Module (PBCM)". It seems the Windshield Control Module was faulty and it's apparently on the same line as the Park Brake Control Module. The bike thought the parking brake was on, and so wouldn't allow me to do anything but shift down.

 

[ClayJ]

Thanks RTWolfie. Unfortunately that doesn't sound like a cheap solution.

I've only had one instance of failure to shift-up in the last 10 months and 5,000 miles, and it self corrected after 30 seconds. I'm hoping it's gone or become so infrequent that I just won't have to deal with it again. But it's good to know it's an option if it does come back.

 

[Mikey]

After my last post, I had about 6 months where the problem never occurred. I rode probably 5,000 miles in that time. Then last week I towed the bike down to Arizona (from Colorado) to get a few good rides in. On one of the rides, I pulled onto the highway and felt the dreaded dry shift. Pushed 3 or 4 times and it finally shifted. I did the entire 400 mile ride without any issues.

Later in the week it occurred again on a short ride, and it wouldn't come back. I shut the bike off, waited 15 minutes, and it started and shifted just fine, so I did my ride.

In all my problems, I have never been stranded by the bike. It's annoying to have to sit for 15 to 20 minutes, but the shift has always come back to life and let me complete the ride.

Reading through the other posts, I don't see anyone who's reported back after a long time indicating the problem was fixed. Of course, I'd have thought mine was fixed until it wasn't. I have not disconnected my brake light flasher. Maybe I'll try that.


Photo from my Arizona ride.

View attachment 206905

Just a quick question, by any chance when this DRY SHIFT happens where you going into or shifting out of a shape curve, on ramp, ect? because if you were, it may be a case of your Nanny telling you to behave yourself! I think there's a setting in there that they can adjust to lessen that from happening!

 

[ClayJ]

No, there is no specific ride conditions associated with the problem (for me). The majority of the time this happens in the first 10 minutes of my ride, so low speeds, city streets. Often just shifting reverse to 1st after backing out of the garage. Only a few times have I had it happen hours into a ride.

Turning the bike off and waiting 15 minutes or more has always recovered the bike so I've never been stranded anywhere.

 

[ClayJ]

It happened again today. After 2 hours on the road, I stopped at a scenic overlook. When I got back on the bike, it wouldn't shift. It's been 4 months since I last had a problem...

It's annoying as all get out, but I still don't think I can justify $500 on the hope that it fixes the problem!

 

[ClayJ]

I finally got it to fail and stay broken. I was on a long ride round Colorado this week. After stopping at the Wolf Creek Pass overlook, it wouldn't shift up for about 45 minutes but eventually it worked again (like it always does). We finished the days ride over cottonwood pass and into Leadville.

But when we were going to leave for dinner, no shifty. After dinner (yes I rode on the back of someone's bike) it hadn't started working again. Next morning, the same.

I sent everyone else on and called my wife to hitch up my trailer and come get me. (only 3 hrs from home).

I keep checking every so often and it continues to stay broken. As I told my friends, I'm almost glad because now I can finally get it into a shop and the mechanic won't look at me like I'm an idiot and it will get fixed.

 

[ClayJ]

SEEMS TO REALLY BE FIXED FINALLY

Back in July, the bike completely stopped shifting up. I called the shop but they couldn't get it in for 2 weeks. Every day I'd go start the bike and try to shift into 1st but it never would so I was hoping it would stay broken for the mechanic.

I finally took it into the shop and it was still broken so I demoed it for the service rep who agreed I wasn't doing anything wrong. I asked if a tech could look at it right away and she assured me it would be seen within a day or two....... THREE WEEKS LATER a tech called me to say the bike was running and shifting just fine. He asked if I remembered to push the brake when shifting out of neutral . . . . OH MY HECK!!!.... Yeah, I've put 30,000 miles on the bike and don't know how to shift.

After I calmed down, we got the service rep who confirmed that the bike really had been broken when I brought it in so he started to take me seriously. After some more diagnosis and a long conversation with BRP, he called to recommend that I change the handlebar control. He had disassembled it and found nothing wrong but that's all they could think of that might solve my problem.

It's really hard to spend $1,200 when the rep says "I hope this fixes it, but if it doesn't we won't give your money back". It was my call.

I told them to do it.

It's now been 2 weeks and I've put over 2000 miles on the bike with no shifting problems. I really really hope that's the end.

 

[DickB]

It's really hard to spend $1,200 when the rep says "I hope this fixes it, but if it doesn't we won't give your money back".

That's odd. With BUDS the switches can be easily tested with no disassembly or even removing from the motorcycle.

 

[ClayJ]

That's odd. With BUDS the switches can be easily tested with no disassembly or even removing from the motorcycle.

The problem is that the shifting issue was intermittent and random. There was no way to make it happen on demand.