2019 RTL won't shift up (fixed'ish - only now it's un-fixed again!)

[PW2013STL]

Interesting reading this thread today. Yesterday on our ride (4 Spiders) our ride leader pulled over to the side of the road as her RT would not shift. I didn't ask her what year her RT is, but it's in the 15-18 year range. I was able to get it into reverse, but not any forward gears. Was calling for a tow when someone else was able to get it into 1st.
She then took off for home, but she had to slow down for a turn and when the Spyder down shifted it would not upshift again. We could not get it to upshift, so we pushed it in to a clearing. She rode behind another rider, and we proceeded to her home 70 miles away. Her husband was unable to help, but the lady she rode behind said that she has a Spyder trailer at her place. That was another 30 miles away.
They headed to get that (and her boyfriend to help) and I headed back to her Spyder to wait for them. About 2 hours later they showed up and all 4 of us were able to get it up the ramp and into the enclosed trailer.
The dealer will look at it Wednesday. I think it's the paddle shifter, or gear position sensor.
I do find it interesting that it will go into reverse, but not forward.
Found out it's an 2018.

 

[BertRemington]

I agree with Pegasus -- most likely LHS failure.

If you're not on warranty I would attempt the Pirate fix.

The LHS signals are sent via CANBUS to the TCM, console, etc modules interested in them. The CANBUS is fairly robust but can be interfered with by electrical system changes including moving cable locations. The RHS cruise control can also be affected because it sends its signals via wires to the LHS who sends them on via CANBUS.

WRT to connectors, there have been instances (very few) where the connector pin locks didn't hold and the pin backed out enough to cause a intermittent disconnect. Very hard to detect. A visual inspection using a small LED light is best.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I believe the shifter switch is a silicone rubber bubble with a copper or brass metal film. When the switch is pressed a nubbin pushes down on the bubble and makes contact with another copper patch. At least that's the way the starter button is configured on my 2014 RT. What happens is the metal film deteriorates and breaks apart, leaving only a small portion of it active and able to complete the circuit. https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...g-up-Update!&p=1641755&viewfull=1#post1641755

Because the shifter switch is a CanBus item on a printed circuit board I don't think there is any practical way to bypass it like I did on my starter switch. https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...2014-RT-saved-me-500&highlight=starter+button

Since BRP doesn't sell component parts for things like the LHS module you have no choice but to replace the entire LHS module.

 

[RTWolfie]

I'll definitely post a resolution when they find one. Back to the hospital she goes! The OP's problem seems very close to mine, and since I'm under warranty (2019 bought new out of the crate in spring 2021 with 4 years warranty included) BRP is stuck fixing it. I've found other similar threads but no resolution posted. My problem doesn't happen all the time, just randomly with no apparent correlation to how I'm riding. I'll be out having fun, and she'll just refuse to shift up. I can shift down manually or she'll do it herself, but once in 1st I'm stuck there. I have a big trip planned this summer and I REALLY need to have confidence this won't get me stuck in the middle of nowhere.

 

[RTWolfie]

Update: So I picked her up on Sat, rode and hour back from the shop and no shift issues. Shop said it was my brake flash modulators I got from TRIC LED that was causing my issues. While I was out yesterday it was fine for the 1st hour, then it was randomly refusing to shift up when I hit the paddle. Sometimes I would have to hit the paddle 3-4 times then it would begrudgingly shift. Got to a light and again it wouldn't shift above 1st. Pulled over shut it off, turned it back on and it wouldn't shift into 1st at all. A couple more tries, she went into first and I rode back home without an issue. But twice while trying it at the side of the road when I switched it on nothing came up on the screen, I just had the parking brake and neutral lights. Back to the shop she goes.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Update: So I picked her up on Sat, rode and hour back from the shop and no shift issues. Shop said it was my brake flash modulators I got from TRIC LED that was causing my issues. While I was out yesterday it was fine for the 1st hour, then it was randomly refusing to shift up when I hit the paddle. Sometimes I would have to hit the paddle 3-4 times then it would begrudgingly shift. Got to a light and again it wouldn't shift above 1st. Pulled over shut it off, turned it back on and it wouldn't shift into 1st at all. A couple more tries, she went into first and I rode back home without an issue. But twice while trying it at the side of the road when I switched it on nothing came up on the screen, I just had the parking brake and neutral lights. Back to the shop she goes.

Did the shop disconnect the brake flash modulator? That's one of the first things shops like to do, blame the problem on DIY electrical addons. I would say they don't know what they are talking about. There is no electrical tie-in between the shift circuit and the brake lights.

I really believe it's a deteriorated silicone switch bubble as I described above.

 

[EdMat]

Did the shop disconnect the brake flash modulator? That's one of the first things shops like to do, blame the problem on DIY electrical addons. I would say they don't know what they are talking about. There is no electrical tie-in between the shift circuit and the brake lights.

I really believe it's a deteriorated silicone switch bubble as I described above.

:agree:

 

[Mikey]

There have been a few of switch problems on here, and that would be where I would start. But on the other hand, these things have a finicky can bus system and if I had a whole lot of electrical farkels, I may also unhook anyone that I put on just before the issue started! Good luck, electrical gremlins suck!!!

 

[RTWolfie]

Did the shop disconnect the brake flash modulator? That's one of the first things shops like to do, blame the problem on DIY electrical addons. I would say they don't know what they are talking about. There is no electrical tie-in between the shift circuit and the brake lights.

I really believe it's a deteriorated silicone switch bubble as I described above.

Yes they replaced the entire left side cluster under warranty already trying to fix it part #710008164. Brake light modulators were disconnected before I left the shop on Saturday.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Yes they replaced the entire left side cluster under warranty already trying to fix it part #710008164. Brake light modulators were disconnected before I left the shop on Saturday.

That deepens the mystery. I didn't realize you already had the LH switch replaced. My next bet would be a broken or shorted wire or loose or wet connector somewhere in the harness. But then again the fact that several others have had this problem would tend to discount this possibility, except connectors getting wet. Everyone rides in the rain sometime! After that I would consider the replacement switch module is defective, or the transmission control module has a problem. Try to get the shop to replace the TCM and see what happens.

 

[Peter Aawen]

That deepens the mystery. I didn't realize you already had the LH switch replaced. My next bet would be a broken or shorted wire or loose or wet connector somewhere in the harness. But then again the fact that several others have had this problem would tend to discount this possibility, except connectors getting wet. Everyone rides in the rain sometime! After that I would consider the replacement switch module is defective, or the transmission control module has a problem. Try to get the shop to replace the TCM and see what happens.

Orrr, maybe they pinched a wire or two when they replaced the LH Cluster... or didn't plug it in properly?? :dontknow:

 

[WRCLVR]

All of this makes me want to use helmet flashers that are not connected to the bike in any way and never use anything connected to the bikes lighting circuit. If i do ever mod, then it will be a fused relay directly from the battery with a kill switch

 

[Bamajohn]

FYI... Drove the bike home yesterday after the left hand multi switch replacement, ( 1 hour ride ). Shifted fine. Now if the sun would come out I can get back to learning to ride this beast.

Glad to know it's resolved. You just saved about $400 plus labor getting it done under warranty....ask me how I know! :thumbup:

 

[RTWolfie]

Glad to know it's resolved. You just saved about $400 plus labor getting it done under warranty....ask me how I know! :thumbup:

Up here in Canada they are $829 before install, Glad to have warranty!
I just wished it fixed my issue. Towing back to my dealer is $460 and I've already used both of my auto club tows for the calendar year. BRP will only pony up $200 for a tow.

 

[ClayJ]

After my last post, I had about 6 months where the problem never occurred. I rode probably 5,000 miles in that time. Then last week I towed the bike down to Arizona (from Colorado) to get a few good rides in. On one of the rides, I pulled onto the highway and felt the dreaded dry shift. Pushed 3 or 4 times and it finally shifted. I did the entire 400 mile ride without any issues.

Later in the week it occurred again on a short ride, and it wouldn't come back. I shut the bike off, waited 15 minutes, and it started and shifted just fine, so I did my ride.

In all my problems, I have never been stranded by the bike. It's annoying to have to sit for 15 to 20 minutes, but the shift has always come back to life and let me complete the ride.

Reading through the other posts, I don't see anyone who's reported back after a long time indicating the problem was fixed. Of course, I'd have thought mine was fixed until it wasn't. I have not disconnected my brake light flasher. Maybe I'll try that.


Photo from my Arizona ride.

 

[RTWolfie]

Sounds like what's happening to me. Turning it off and on a few times and it always works again. The shop doesn't seem to be able to get a grip on what's causing it as it's so random. Nice bike, always loved the orange ones!

 

[RTWolfie]

Well she's back in the shop again for round 3. I went to pick up a part at the dealership an hour away and about 2km short of the shop she wouldn't shift again. Pulled over and shut it off and then she wouldn't' go into neutral or 1st, all I could get is reverse. After being shut off for 10 minutes she finally went into 1st so I did the last 2k in first with my hazards on. When I pulled into the shop they pulled the codes and it was giving a U0128 code. So now they are looking at the parking brake and sensor. Glad I still have warranty, I'm not going to quit until this is fixed. I originally took it to the shop on Dec 8th.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Well she's back in the shop again for round 3. I went to pick up a part at the dealership an hour away and about 2km short of the shop she wouldn't shift again. Pulled over and shut it off and then she wouldn't' go into neutral or 1st, all I could get is reverse. After being shut off for 10 minutes she finally went into 1st so I did the last 2k in first with my hazards on. When I pulled into the shop they pulled the codes and it was giving a U0128 code. So now they are looking at the parking brake and sensor. Glad I still have warranty, I'm not going to quit until this is fixed. I originally took it to the shop on Dec 8th.

I see you list Monster EFI as a mod. Have you tried running with it not connected?

 

[AndysF3S]

How would you disconnect a reflash of the ECU without sending the ECM back unless you have the portable flashing unit?

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

How would you disconnect a reflash of the ECU without sending the ECM back unless you have the portable flashing unit?

I realized my mistake after I posted the above. I had in mind one of those add-on devices, and then realized the Monster was a reflash, not an add-on.