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2018 Spyder RT SE6 LMTD Headlight Switch

Cherokee08201950

New member
I am pretty upset at myself if this is true what my Spyder mechanic told me.

I put a cup holder on the left side of my RT and one of the screws was a bit to long and it hit the high beam rocker switch and now the high beam will not stay on unless I hold my finger on the rocker switch. When I took it to my Spyder dealership the mechanic told me that it would cost $885.00 to replace the rocker switch. He said that the switch runs all the electronics on the left handle bar and also he told me that the reason my RT shows a light on my dash "the check engine light" and causes the cruise to kick off when I am cruising at 70 - 80 mph on the interstate. The light goes off after about 20 seconds or so and the RT runs fine afterwards and the cruise also will also set and work for maybe 100 miles or more. Looking down beside the rocker switch I can see the rocker and it doesn't look like it is connected to anything except the headlight wires. I did remove the screw and shorten it so it doesn't touch anything inside the handlebar cover.

Thanks to any mechanic that can let me know what to do.

David Sessums
[email protected]
 
Sounds like virginity for the old switch; once it lost it, can't get it back. Those switch assemblies are just that, complete assemblies. Try to shade-tree engineer it at your own risk.
 
There have been some issues with the left side switches on the 18’s. Maybe that is the real source of your trouble. It is common though for dealers to blame any aftermarket items for whatever ails your Spyder.


I’d ask them to show you where the long screw damaged the switch. Why don’t you put the short screws back in and ho to a different dealer?
 
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I don't know why you said try to shade tree mechanic at my own risk. All I was wanting to know was if the repair is legit or was I getting the shaft. I'm a 100% disabled Vietnam Vet I cant do my own mechanics, I just like to be informed so I don't throw away $800.00
 
My apology and thank you for your service. I meant absolutely no insult by using the term shade-tree, just trying to caution you against possibly making the situation worse by attempting to dig into that assembly. My service manual, for example, says nothing next to nothing about the right and left handlebar controls except that they exist and the identifying codes for them in the wiring diagram. Spyder Ann knows way more about the new models than I and her suggestions make a very good plan of action.
 
The part is about $450 plus maybe 2 hours labour at $100/hr. I figure then $650. Don't know what your local taxes would be. I think the estimate is high.
 
Bummer.....

As I see it the only thing that was affected by the longer screw was the rocker not locking on high beam. That switch only controls hi/low beam on the head light and all other issues are separate issues. I would check with another dealer as there are faulty switches out there. :thumbup:
 
What brand of cupholder were you installing with the screw too long? I'm getting ready to install a cupholder that I just purchased.
 
What brand of cupholder were you installing with the screw too long? I'm getting ready to install a cupholder that I just purchased.

If it's the Drink2Go one, I installed it on my 2018 Spyder RTL a week ago. No problems with my headlight switch working correctly after using their longer screw. I can't vouch for any other year's make or model though.
 
If it's the Drink2Go one, I installed it on my 2018 Spyder RTL a week ago. No problems with my headlight switch working correctly after using their longer screw. I can't vouch for any other year's make or model though.

Thanks FalconAF. That's the brand I'm putting on my 2018 RTL too. I was kind of disappointed as to how small of a cup you can fit in them. What do you put in yours? Was looking at getting some 20oz skinny stainless insulated tumblers.
 
Thanks FalconAF. That's the brand I'm putting on my 2018 RTL too. I was kind of disappointed as to how small of a cup you can fit in them. What do you put in yours? Was looking at getting some 20oz skinny stainless insulated tumblers.

My primary use of it is to have a 33 ounce plastic water bottle with a flip-top opener on the top that I can open with just my left hand while riding. I ride with a Roadcrafter Aerostich one-piece riding suit in temps well above 100+ degrees in the desert southwest where I live. I wear LD Comfort wicking shirts and shorts under the Stich in hot weather and by squirting water down my neck once in a while I can keep the inside temperature of the suit easily at about 68 - 72 degrees while riding. I never have to worry about dehydrating myself from over-sweating, because I stay cool by evaporating the water I pour down the shirt instead of me sweating it out of my body.

The Drink2Go is narrow as it is shipped. But you can take a hair dryer or heat gun (LOW, LOW temp if using a heat gun!) to warm up the plastic side holders and bend them out a bit if you want. Manufacturer says it will easily hold 30+ ounce drinks then. You would still need a narrower and taller container for it to fit in the bottom of the holder though, like a water bottle or tall thermos tumbler like you mentioned. It really isn't designed for a standard "cup" shape. But I knew that when I bought it. The tall thin 33 ounce water bottles I use (available at most convenience stores) fit in it fine without me doing any "heat bending" of it.

For an actual larger drinking cup holder I'm gonna get a separate ram ball mount for the center of the handlebars. My Drink2Go one is for pouring water down my suit when the riding temps are hot enough for me to need it.
 
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