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2017 RT Speaker upgrade - would 1" bigger be worth the effort?

RULINGCHAOS

RULINGCHAOS

New member
I've done a little research and watched a couple YouTube videos on how to replace an upgrade the front and rear speakers and I'm wondering about the limitations on the upgrade sizes because I know to upgrade from the stock size up to six and a half inch speakers you need to pretty much remove most of the front dash and fairing to do that but if you just stick with the same size you can basically remove them out of the speaker grills or the sides.

Would the increase to 6 1/2 in be worth it to completely remove most of the front dash and fairing or would it just be adequate to stick with the same size basically would 1 inch increase be worth all that effort?

I saw a video of some guy that increased the rear size and he basically had to increase the diameter of the hole and it looked like the plastic around the hole was thinner than I would like.

Maybe I'm just looking for some decent quality speakers instead of increasing the size and does anybody know any decent speakers in stock size that would be greater output and clarity?

Thanks
 
dkerwood01:

As I told you before it ain't gonna be easy.

to upgrade from the stock size up to six and a half inch speakers you need to pretty much remove most of the front dash and fairing to do that
Click to expand...
YEP

stick with the same size you can basically remove them out of the speaker grills or the sides
Click to expand...
NOPE

I saw a video of some guy that increased the rear size and he basically had to increase the diameter of the hole and it looked like the plastic around the hole was thinner than I would like.
Click to expand...
Would you like me to measure the thickness of the plastic? I've removed the speakers and radio to make room for another project (if anyone wants them let me know) and I'll measure it for you.
 
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RULINGCHAOS said:
I've done a little research and watched a couple YouTube videos on how to replace an upgrade the front and rear speakers and I'm wondering about the limitations on the upgrade sizes because I know to upgrade from the stock size up to six and a half inch speakers you need to pretty much remove most of the front dash and fairing to do that but if you just stick with the same size you can basically remove them out of the speaker grills or the sides.

Would the increase to 6 1/2 in be worth it to completely remove most of the front dash and fairing or would it just be adequate to stick with the same size basically would 1 inch increase be worth all that effort?

I saw a video of some guy that increased the rear size and he basically had to increase the diameter of the hole and it looked like the plastic around the hole was thinner than I would like.

Maybe I'm just looking for some decent quality speakers instead of increasing the size and does anybody know any decent speakers in stock size that would be greater output and clarity?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Well, I was one of the first folks here to do this type of up-grade .... and I assisted quite a few folks in doing the same thing ..... Simply stated, a one inch increase in size/diameter is NOT going to make a noticeable difference ( if any at all ) in what you hear.... Some folks claim you can get GOOD Bass from a 6.5 speaker .... BS .... the cone is too small to achieve that .... I swapped the rear OEM for 5.25 JBL 2 ohm speakers and added those to the front also. Fact: if you don't change ALL the speakers to a higher quality - you will ONLY hear the crappy ones ..... To do this in the rear (ONLY) increase the hole size to 4 5/8 .... it's not too thin, it's not something that is "stressed". .... and DON'T even think above sealing up the rear housings, those boxes MUST be able to drain water.... also don't bother with "Marine Grade speakers", all the modern quality speakers are made from Non-Absorbent material ..... Good Luck .... Mike ..... :thumbup:

PS: ... the head-unit was never the issue .... it was always the crappy speakers .... I LOVE great audio and I have achieved that for about $400.00 ..... Good Luck :thumbup:
 
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BLUEKNIGHT911 said:
Well, I was one of the first folks here to do this type of up-grade .... and I assisted quite a few folks in doing the same thing ..... Simply stated, a one inch increase in size/diameter is NOT going to make a noticeable difference ( if any at all ) in what you hear.... Some folks claim you can get GOOD Bass from a 6.5 speaker .... BS .... the cone is too small to achieve that .... I swapped the rear OEM for 5.25 JBL 2 ohm speakers and added those to the front also. Fact: if you don't change ALL the speakers to a higher quality - you will ONLY hear the crappy ones ..... To do this in the rear (ONLY) increase the hole size to 4 5/8 .... it's not too thin, it's not something that is "stressed". .... and DON'T even think above sealing up the rear housings, those boxes MUST be able to drain water.... also don't bother with "Marine Grade speakers", all the modern quality speakers are made from Non-Absorbent material ..... Good Luck .... Mike ..... :thumbup:

PS: ... the head-unit was never the issue .... it was always the crappy speakers .... I LOVE great audio and I have achieved that for about $400.00 ..... Good Luck :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Excellent.. Thank you very much for the response! I also suppose adding a small amp is unnecessary? I Want that sucker loud.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
RULINGCHAOS said:
Excellent.. Thank you very much for the response! I also suppose adding a small amp is unnecessary? I Want that sucker loud.
Click to expand...

No amp .... loud ??? .... I have some hearing loss ( from pistol range ).... and I RARELY have it above 60%, ( at highway speeds ) and like loud, clear music..... For me the key seems to be I used 2 ohm speakers ( they are hard to find nowadays ) ..... you can always add an AMP if feel the need, and because you are up-grading to higher quality speakers - they are more likely to handle the extra power...... Mike :thumbup:
 
BLUEKNIGHT911 said:
Interesting ... I got my JBL's from them ..... and The Kicker" might be the last 2 OHM models made .... I recall last year other folks here buying those Kicker's..... annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd if they arn't loud enough add a Amp. ..... good luck ... Mike :thumbup:
Click to expand...
PS, don't be concerned that the Kicker's are 2- Ohm and the OEM ( junk ) was 4-Ohm ..... when I posted here about the 2 vs. 4 thing I was told by a few that the speakers would fail and or the entire radio .... well 70,000 mi later and neither has occurred. .... Going from say 8 ohm to 2 ohm could be an issue , but from 4 to 2 .... good luck .... keep us informed ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
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WRT to rear speaker removal videos, I removed all the fasteners shown in the video and more but couldn't separate the housing halves. Maybe I wasn't forceful enough. YMMV.

WRT to front speaker removal videos, I stopped short of removal via side access. I have to fabricate some wiring harnesses first and then will go all the way. I noticed Finless Bob was mounting devices in the front speaker grill, which I also intend to do.
 
BertRemington said:
WRT to rear speaker removal videos, I removed all the fasteners shown in the video and more but couldn't separate the housing halves. Maybe I wasn't forceful enough. YMMV.

WRT to front speaker removal videos, I stopped short of removal via side access. I have to fabricate some wiring harnesses first and then will go all the way. I noticed Finless Bob was mounting devices in the front speaker grill, which I also intend to do.
Click to expand...

Did you manage to change the fronts out on side access?
 
BertRemington said:
WRT to rear speaker removal videos, I removed all the fasteners shown in the video and more but couldn't separate the housing halves. Maybe I wasn't forceful enough. YMMV.

WRT to front speaker removal videos, I stopped short of removal via side access. I have to fabricate some wiring harnesses first and then will go all the way. I noticed Finless Bob was mounting devices in the front speaker grill, which I also intend to do.
Click to expand...

Once ALL the screws are removed it should just come free ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
Mike -- as I said above I removed all the screws shown in the video and MORE. Even the ones holding the padding on.

RC -- Yes the two halves are slotted together in several places. You have to lift the outside lip up and over the inside edge and push the two halves apart. Perhaps I should have used some WD-40 to help with the slots. But I chickened out when the force seemed excessive. The previous owner had already broken off some trim tabs and I didn't want to add to the collection.

I'm not quite ready for front speaker removal. Many wiring harnesses in fabrication.

As you saw on the videos there are many fasteners involved. To keep them organized I suggest the small box of this collection https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017W2Q6PG The lid only opens half way creating a spill hazard but if you cut the lock tabs on the hinges you can remove it. For big job overnight storage the two front locks keep the lid on. The price doubled since I bought mine (I have three sets) so consider alternatives.

BTW my fastener organization requirements are worse than stock because I've replaced all the Torx machine screws with tailored length (usually longer) flanged button head hex (Allen) stainless steel machine screws, most with stainless steel washers to prevent friction damage to the plastic bodywork (some of the openings are kinda marginal). So I often use most of those compartments.:D
 
Those Kickers at 2 ohm run about $150 a pair. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20610PS525/Kicker-10PS5250.html?tp=105

I found some 3 ohm JBL's for $70 a pair. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KVXAHQ...&colid=DZGTGDY3ZHPY&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

I have experience with both brands but wonder about that 3 ohm rating. At 2 ohms would the Kickers perform better? $80 better? And the Kicker grill surround looks like it would pose an issue with install going through the removable factory speaker grills in the fairing. I know it it possible but I do not feel up to removing all the parts to get in there aside from just through the front.
 
I looked at the Crutchfield speakers and I think they're about the same depth as BRPs. The Amazon dimensions looked goofy. I can send you the BRP measurements if you want. The wires are 18AWG.

You can't remove the front speakers through the grill but it isn't that hard to remove them from the side as shown in the video.
 
We must have watched different videos

Bob White didn't remove the front speakers through their grills -- he removed them from the side exactly as I said. Here's a direct quote at 3:23/9:56
OK fronts were easy! Just replace them from the side as shown
Click to expand...
 
At 1:03 he says you are able to get them out through the hole.. it's not an easy process. But what I am worried about is the install of the aftermarket. In that case, you may be right ... just remove and install from the side. He said it was not that much work.

I appreciate your input on this. I will be doing the rears also at some point. Hopefully without modifications.
 
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