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2015 RTS spark plug replacement

ES44AC

Member
How hard is it to remove to top of my 2015 RTS SM6? One main question is do I have to disconnect the clutch reservoir? I had most of it apart recently to replace the headlights and fog lights and didn't think about the plugs.

I wish someone had a YouTube video on this.
 
How hard is it to remove to top of my 2015 RTS SM6? One main question is do I have to disconnect the clutch reservoir? I had most of it apart recently to replace the headlights and fog lights and didn't think about the plugs.

I wish someone had a YouTube video on this.

I'm sure none of the upper stuff has to be removed ….. Go to cheapcycleparts.com and look at a Fiche' of that area, it may help you...... It sounds like you have removed the Frunk ….. that was the hard part ….. there have been a few recent Threads on 1330 plug changing …… do a search …… good luck ….. Mike :ohyea:
 
Trains

:coffee: I don't have any ideas about your question.
I do enjoy Trains and saw your post Train picture.
Do you work with Trains?....:thumbup:
 
How hard is it to remove to top of my 2015 RTS SM6? One main question is do I have to disconnect the clutch reservoir? I had most of it apart recently to replace the headlights and fog lights and didn't think about the plugs.

I wish someone had a YouTube video on this.

Remove mirrors. Remove bodywork. Remove frunk. As needed, disconnect wire connectors to center section. Raise center section at front, and support with a 2x4 section. Remove primary airbox. Reposition secondary airbox.

Expect soundproofing foam to be deteriorated and gooey. Swap plugs, reassemble.

By this method you do not completely remove the center section and your clutch system should remain intact. Headlights are not removed by this method, just bodywork around them.
 
I have a tip or two. I found repositioning the secondary air box the biggest pain to get at the rightmost plug. There is a transverse aluminum bar that supports the air boxes you remove after removing one bolt on each end and then rotating the bar 90 degrees, laying it flat as opposed to vertical to slide it out pf position. When you've replaced the plugs, being sure to use thermal paste on them except for the first two threads, and dielectric grease on the top of the plugs (get everything from Bajaron) do not start the engine until you've reconnected all the electrical cables you separated when removing the frunk. If you do the ECM will throw some codes involving the ambient air temperature and pressure sensor. Once all the electrical plugs are reconnected the codes will disappear as they become inactive.
 
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