-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
1330cc 2015 RTL died on road - anyone else? Any fixes?
- Thread starter bikergirl
- Start date
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
With the ignition turned off do the hazard lights work? If not then that points to a problem with the cluster. If you haven't already removed the cluster do so and do a bench test to power it up. Terminal CL-9 is powered full time. Terminal CL-8 is powered from the main power relay. That relay is activated through the ECM. If it doesn't light up with power to both 8 & 9, and of course with ground connected, that indicates to me the cluster may be toast. If the cluster lights up then I think there may be a problem with the ECM. The best bet at this point is to get BUDs connected and test the modules with it. You'll have to go to a dealer to get that done unless you're fortunate to have a SL member close by who has BUDs.
Well finally found and fixed problem thanks to IdahoMtnSpyder steering me in right direction.
Did as you suggested with jumping terminals even though hazard lights worked, and dash powered up.
Then checked voltages coming from bike and found only 1.5 volts to terminal CL-8 and park switch PBS-7 on that same circuit.
Then checked voltage at fuse F7 LFB 10amp to cluster, TCM, DPS and gauges was 12.9 volts. Then checked resistance from CL-8 to B2 of fuse.
Found high resistance in that circuit. Used my magnifier on my phone and seen corrosion on terminal. I think the only way to get to the back of fuse block it is to pull the funk and front clip to pull the harness.
So instead, I used terminal cleaner and a fluid that Mercedes-Benz uses that promotes terminal contact. Rechecked and now powers up and starts.
Thank you for steering me in the right direction. With all the testing I was doing I started getting lost in the forest.
Thanks UtahPete and Jetfixer and everyone else for the help.
Did as you suggested with jumping terminals even though hazard lights worked, and dash powered up.
Then checked voltages coming from bike and found only 1.5 volts to terminal CL-8 and park switch PBS-7 on that same circuit.
Then checked voltage at fuse F7 LFB 10amp to cluster, TCM, DPS and gauges was 12.9 volts. Then checked resistance from CL-8 to B2 of fuse.
Found high resistance in that circuit. Used my magnifier on my phone and seen corrosion on terminal. I think the only way to get to the back of fuse block it is to pull the funk and front clip to pull the harness.
So instead, I used terminal cleaner and a fluid that Mercedes-Benz uses that promotes terminal contact. Rechecked and now powers up and starts.
Thank you for steering me in the right direction. With all the testing I was doing I started getting lost in the forest.
Thanks UtahPete and Jetfixer and everyone else for the help.
Last edited:
I found a corroded battery terminal to be the source of electrical gremlins on my wife's Spyder. Sorry I didn't think of that possibility earlier.
MrMagicFingers
Member
Thanks for letting us know you fix the issue and what the resolution was. That info goes forward into the future to help others.
Hats off to you for troubleshooting the issue and to everyone that helped out.
Great work!
Tim
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
That's great. I'm sure glad my suggestions helped you.
Electrical problems on vehicles that have circuit's that interconnect with one another and use communication circuits to talk to each other can be difficult without special tools to diagnose.
Was looking at CAN hi and low circuits for open or shorts because of the way the bike quit. Then started looking at ECM wiring powers and grounds after downloading service manual.
The only problem I had was printing the schematic was I couldn't read it without magnifying it then couldn't print that portion of it. So I enlarged it on computer and took a picture with my phone and could see it by enlarging the picture.
Luckly I had Fluke meter, test light and power probe tool to do the tests. Can Am also uses the same terminals GM uses on their vehicles which made it easier to test without ruining the terminals. Now I remember one reason why I retired.
Was looking at CAN hi and low circuits for open or shorts because of the way the bike quit. Then started looking at ECM wiring powers and grounds after downloading service manual.
The only problem I had was printing the schematic was I couldn't read it without magnifying it then couldn't print that portion of it. So I enlarged it on computer and took a picture with my phone and could see it by enlarging the picture.
Luckly I had Fluke meter, test light and power probe tool to do the tests. Can Am also uses the same terminals GM uses on their vehicles which made it easier to test without ruining the terminals. Now I remember one reason why I retired.
PMK
Active member
You might consider doing the research into water intrusion of the fuseboxes. Apparently some of the wire harnesses had corrosion issues due to water entry to the backside of the fuse boxes. Forget all the details but believe it was in that 2015 era your Spyder falls within. Regardless excellent it is repaired.
Similar threads
