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2014 Spyder RT Oil Change

Local dealer has the total oil change kit with all from BRP for 69.00. Easier than hunting for aftermarket parts and all in 1 box, oil,filters rings ect.
 
2014 Spyder RT Oil change parts listing

I agree with the well done presentation.. Very helpful.
After doing some more recent research, I did find an online retailer that has all the needed parts for the oil change at a better price..
In fact they have most any OEM parts you would need..
http://www.powersportswarehouse.com

Here is a list of the parts again. And pricing.
just plug in the part# in the websites part search window to locate them,, very easy.
The French description on the 2 parts below are for the sealing washers..

420956743 - Can-Am - Oil Filter @$11.99ea.

420430623 - Can-Am - Anneau Étanche @$1.47ea.

420950812 - Can-Am - O-Ring @$4.49ea.

420250640 - Can-Am - Rondelle En Cuivre @$1.47ea.

420650927 - Can-Am - O-Ring @$4.49ea.

420850482 - Can-Am - O-Ring @$4.49ea.

420250460 - Can-Am - O-Ring @$2.99ea.

420430115 - Can-Am - O-Ring @$2.99ea.

I typically use AMSOIL in all my rides... and use Motorcycle 10W40. full synthetic for the Spyder....
 
Quick Update

For the 2017 F3-S, use a 6mm hex key on the transmission plug. Also before loosening the two drain plugs, check to make sure the bits fit snugly into the heads of the plugs. NO ROCKING, NO SLOP. Your bits should be high-quality pieces, not Chinese-made cheapos because they are often sloppy and brittle. Use a long-enough ratchet to give good torque. And remember counter-clockwise when looking at the plug loosens it. Ok, the socket's in the plug head and your hand is on the ratchet, so give the ratchet a good swift and sharp tug. Don't overdo it, just make it QUICK!. This will break the plugs loose without giving them time to think about stripping! And, I recommend replacing those plugs with Gold Plugs..MP01, one for the engine, one for the tranny (they're both the same number, you have to specify when ordering)..

Thanks, and happy Ryding.
 
NO THEY ARE NOT!!

There are two different sizes of Gold Plug foe the 1330 engine. The engine plug is MP-18 and the transmission plug is MP-01.
 
One thing, on the F3-S Spyder anyway, remove the oil filter together with the inner bolt. Don't try to remove the bolt and then the cover-it won't come out. Take it all out together, cover, bolt and filter as one piece. Give them a chance to finish draining, and therefore leaving less of a mess, by removing them slowly. Put the new filter, cover and bolt back in together too. It's a lot easier. Also, once you've removed the T-45 and T-40 drain plugs, replace them with Gold Plugs that have a hex head (as God intended bolts to be!). They're also magnetic and are pretty inexpensive and can be installed/removed with a good old fashioned 17mm socket. Not to mention you will also have two magnetic drain plugs for added protection!
 
hillrider said:
After nearly stripping the transmission drain plug, I bought a new one. Close, and I mean close, examination showed it to be a 6mm allen. That means one drain is a T45 and the other is a 6mm. Now the replacement is the 6mm. There's no way of telling what the original drain was, I buggered it really bad getting it off. The reason for the differing types of tool is perhaps european logic.

Haven't figured out how to show it, but I've got a '15 RT_S SE6.
Click to expand...

replace both of those "T" drain plugs with Gold Plugs, MP-18 and MP-01.. They have direct replacements for both and use hex heads-17mm, easy to get and use. No more stripped or buggered drain plugs and also the Gold Plugs are both magnetic.
 
TerryTheSpyderRyder said:
One thing, on the F3-S Spyder anyway, remove the oil filter together with the inner bolt. Don't try to remove the bolt and then the cover-it won't come out. Take it all out together, cover, bolt and filter as one piece. Give them a chance to finish draining, and therefore leaving less of a mess, by removing them slowly. Put the new filter, cover and bolt back in together too. It's a lot easier. Also, once you've removed the T-45 and T-40 drain plugs, replace them with Gold Plugs that have a hex head (as God intended bolts to be!). They're also magnetic and are pretty inexpensive and can be installed/removed with a good old fashioned 17mm socket. Not to mention you will also have two magnetic drain plugs for added protection!
Click to expand...

So much wrong with this statement.

There is no bolts on the F3 oil filter.
There are no drain plugs that use a T40 Torx
Lastly, big troubles with the Gold plug on the engine side. Poor design with a thin wall where the hole for the magnet is far too close to the o-ring groove. Plug snaps off inside the engine on removal. Have seen two of them do this and one was a very expensive engine tear down to fix. We will not install them. Use the RIGHT tools for removal and there is no trouble with the OEM plugs.
 
TerryTheSpyderRyder said:
replace both of those "T" drain plugs with Gold Plugs, MP-18 and MP-01.. They have direct replacements for both and use hex heads-17mm, easy to get and use. No more stripped or buggered drain plugs and also the Gold Plugs are both magnetic.
Click to expand...

Nope, no stripped head, just a snapped off thread end stuck up inside your engine. Yea great trade off. Just use the right tools on the oem plugs.
 
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