I have a 2014 Spyder RTL with 32000 miles that has developed a miss or stumble in the engine at just above idle. It will also stall if you give it too much gas from a stop especially when cold. It seems fine at higher rpm. My first thought was I needed to change the spark plugs, but after looking on this forum the spark plugs should still be good for a lot more miles than what is on mine. Other than spark plugs do you have any recommendation of other things that would cause this? I bought it used last Spring when it had 25,000 miles and I've done several upgrades. I'm getting ready to change the oil and fluids, while I was at it I was going to change the spark plugs, but it looks like a major job, and most people think they should last longer than 35,000 miles. I don't know the maintenance record of any previous owners.
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2014 Spyder RT Ltd missing at just above an idle - any recommendations, other than spark plugs?
- Thread starter Floyd
- Start date
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Well, you need to do your entire 28K service, even if some things are a PITA... and even if they are expensive if you have a shop do it. Ron recently started a thread explaining why changing plugs at 28K may have merit. Especially because you are having performance issues. It's not just about the miles, it's about the number of firings per mile.
I get this question often. If you look, you'll find many opinions. What prompts this post is that we just had a Can-Am Side-by-Side come in throwing a good number of codes, in 'Limp Mode', and just barely running at all. It basically uses a turbo charged Ryker 900 engine (and no, we can't turbo your Ryker!)
We changed the spark plugs and it now runs perfectly. That's all we did, a fresh set of 3, and it was off to the races.
So, why this post? Let's start by looking at the unaltered plugs we pulled.
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A little rich, maybe. But the cold start cycle will always...
We changed the spark plugs and it now runs perfectly. That's all we did, a fresh set of 3, and it was off to the races.
So, why this post? Let's start by looking at the unaltered plugs we pulled.
- A little rich, maybe. But the cold start cycle will always...
That 28K service will cover other related things such as the fuel filter and air filter. Plus, it never hurts to run a fuel system cleaner, or gas with fuel system cleaner in it such as Techron. Other important things need to be looked at, such as coolant and brake fluid. Bottom line is that you will pay for deferring the maintenance at some point, especially because you don't know the maintenance history. You now have 32k on it. If you happen to need an Operator's guide, you can download one here. Take care of your Spyder and it will take care of you.
3-Wheel Vehicles | BRP GUIDES
www.operatorsguides.brp.com
I am 82 and just switched to the Spyder last Spring from two wheels. After I bought the Spyder from a dealer, I asked them if they had changed the oil and they said yes. It didn't look new, but it didn't look old either, so I didn't change it at that time. Because of issues with my feet I have added a handbrake and changed all brake pads and brake fluid. Last Fall I rode 3500 miles from Missouri to Maggie Valley; did all the rides there; then went up the Blue Ridge Parkway and Skyline Drive; came back thru West Virginia, Kentucky, and home. The Spyder ran fine, but needed a little better performance on the cornering, so I have ordered new shocks from Lamonster along with several other parts. I will do the full service. The Fuel filter sounds like it might be an issue. I have added fuel additives which haven't seemed to make a difference. I removed the catalytic converter and put a bypass pipe in, I don't know if that has any effect, but that was also done before I took the trip. I didn't notice the miss at slow speeds until just recently. I do have the operator's guide, it was in the bike when I bought it; plus, I downloaded it to my computer.
BajaRon
Well-known member
We see this a fair amount. There are several things which can cause this. But most often, we find that people are lugging the engine. Coming off a low RPM V-Twin sets your ear to hate the 4,500-5,000 RPM that the Spyder is designed to run. Some will go to 6th gear at much lower RPM and then twist the throttle to accelerate without dropping the 1 or 2 gears it really needs to get the engine into its power band. Because the 1330 will do it, people get the idea that it's OK.
I am not saying this is you. Just throwing things against the wall to see if something sticks.
Over time, lugging the engine will carbon up components and clog the fuel injectors. Not to mention possibly damage the clutch plates. Injectors need to be spraying an extremely fine mist to be effective. The issues are most notable at lower RPM. As RPM increases, the injectors are flowing more volume and the restriction is less detrimental.
Things like SeaFoam are fine for maintenance of a clean system. But to clean a partially clogged injector, you need a better alternative. For this, I recommend Chevron Techron. There are others such as Lucas and Red Line products. If the restriction isn't too bad, one of these can get your injectors back to where they need to be. If not, then removal and a good sonic cleaning will be necessary. If you're going to go that deep, changing your spark plugs at the same time is highly recommended, even if the current plugs are still good.
I hope this helps. But for long term happiness, keep those RPM's where they need to be. You don't always need to be in the 4,500-5,000 RPM range, though this is a good rule of thumb. If you're cruising at lower speeds in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gear, then 3,500+ is fine. But if you want to accelerate, drop a gear first when you are in this range.
Running straight gas when you can is also a great idea. Especially if your Spyder sits for periods of time. Many stations now have OFF HIGHWAY or Recreational Fuel. It costs more money, but so does replacing or servicing expensive components.
One last thing. It doesn't hurt to let your motor idle for 30 seconds or so before shutting down, especially after a particularly hard or hot run. This allows the coolant to circulate, giving the injectors and spark plugs a chance to cool a bit so they don't go on to bake after shutdown.
I am not saying this is you. Just throwing things against the wall to see if something sticks.
Over time, lugging the engine will carbon up components and clog the fuel injectors. Not to mention possibly damage the clutch plates. Injectors need to be spraying an extremely fine mist to be effective. The issues are most notable at lower RPM. As RPM increases, the injectors are flowing more volume and the restriction is less detrimental.
Things like SeaFoam are fine for maintenance of a clean system. But to clean a partially clogged injector, you need a better alternative. For this, I recommend Chevron Techron. There are others such as Lucas and Red Line products. If the restriction isn't too bad, one of these can get your injectors back to where they need to be. If not, then removal and a good sonic cleaning will be necessary. If you're going to go that deep, changing your spark plugs at the same time is highly recommended, even if the current plugs are still good.
I hope this helps. But for long term happiness, keep those RPM's where they need to be. You don't always need to be in the 4,500-5,000 RPM range, though this is a good rule of thumb. If you're cruising at lower speeds in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gear, then 3,500+ is fine. But if you want to accelerate, drop a gear first when you are in this range.
Running straight gas when you can is also a great idea. Especially if your Spyder sits for periods of time. Many stations now have OFF HIGHWAY or Recreational Fuel. It costs more money, but so does replacing or servicing expensive components.
One last thing. It doesn't hurt to let your motor idle for 30 seconds or so before shutting down, especially after a particularly hard or hot run. This allows the coolant to circulate, giving the injectors and spark plugs a chance to cool a bit so they don't go on to bake after shutdown.
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Nokesy
Member
I had the same problem with misfiring, running terrible, etc. and this happened at 60,000 klm. I could not drive it as it shook so much. I had it transported to the dealer and everyone I spoke to in the service department and a friend of mine who is a mechanic all said to change the plugs. I picked up this 2013 RT Ltd Spyder after replacing my 2012 RSS as I could not use my left leg. I usually change the plugs every 30,000 klm and never had a problem with my RSS. Since the RT was new to me, I did not know how the previous owner maintained the bike, so I had the dealer to a complete check of all components of the bike and now it runs great. I also use premium octane as I noticed it runs better with the higher octane. Changing the spark plugs can be challenging, so I would get a full check on the bike at the same time as it is cheaper overall.
Thanks for the replies, lots of good information. I am normally not a lugger; I grew up racing and riding enduros with two stroke high rev power bands. But I have no idea what the original owners did and it could be loaded up. Since I've had it, I tend to try to clean out the cobwebs whenever I can, but I will try some better gas additives to help with the injectors and try using straight gas, unleaded, when I can to see if that helps. In the meantime, I'm going to do all the maintenance, change all the filters and fluids, and go from there. I do most of my own maintenance, so I think I will try some of this other stuff first, before I tackle changing the spark plugs if I don't have to. Thanks for the replies and great comments!
Little Blue
SpyderLovers Ambassador
I know that changing your spark plugs can be a real pistol. But it is generally worth it. All of the posts are on track.
Bottom line, it is up to you.
Good Luck on Your Mission.
Bottom line, it is up to you.
Good Luck on Your Mission.
Snoking1127
Well-known member
I am a year behind you and love to go vroom vroom on freeway on ramps with my Spyders, and power out of corners in a lower gear. My old body likes the feel of a power surge. My twin turbo F150 is driven the same way. I have peripheral neuropathy in both feet (thanks to Agent Orange in SE Asia during the war) and have thought about the hand brake, however, I'm doing ok so far. Tested that the other day when a car made a left turn right in front of me, and I had to throw out the anchor quickly and hard.
Neuropathy is my problem as well. I've had it for 20 plus years and it progressively gets worse and now it's affecting my balance. I was a little worried about just having a foot brake to stop. So I added a handbrake. The foot brake still seems to work a little better in panic stops, but the hand brake works fine for 99% of the time. I mostly use the hand brake, but still have the foot brake there if needed.
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