I’ve got a 2014 Spyder Rt/Limited and it won’t start. I can’t get past the read card, but only a couple of times by dumb luck, it let me start it, but this is very sporadic. The couple of times when it started, it seems to bypass the read card mode selection entirely. When it runs, the Check Engine light is on and a light flashes on the lower center of the display. When running, nothing works on the left control but the horn. No mode button, no directionals, no power windshield, and I can’t get it out of neutral. My local dealers won’t look at it due to the age of the Spyder and I can’t find a shop with a scanner to read the codes. Where is my best place to start looking, besides a $500 handlebar control?
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2014 RT won't start - “Mode button” doesn’t work. Any ideas, or where to start looking?
- Thread starter Gizmo518
- Start date
SpyderJerry
Member
First off, you need to determine if the battery is weak. Put a voltmeter on the battery and see that it holds at least 11 volts when starting. Also, you need to check and clean all the battery cable connections, including the frame ground. I have a 2014 that had a gauge cluster with bad soldier joints, and it also did what you are describing. You can disassemble the gauge cluster and re soldier the pins where it plugs into the board. But check all the other systems first. Many times, it will be a weak battery.
JayBros
Well-known member
Run from those local stealers as fast as you can. It is understandable that some dealerships won't service older V-twin Spyders because they are no longer in production, but dealerships that won't service the 1330 ACE engine Spyders should be reported to BRP, (888) 272-9222, and ask them to give you the name, address and phone number of the nearest dealership that will service a 2014 RT limited. You've been fed a truckload of bovine effluent.
DickB
Active member
It appears that your left switch is bad or you have a bad connection. The horn is wired separately, but the other switches connect via CAN bus. The switches can be tested with BUDS. There is a screen that simply shows the status of the switches as you manually activate each one. Maybe you can talk a dealer into simply running that test for you?
Awesome thanks for the help. I’ll start with the battery. I have been able to start it on occasion but I can’t get the mode button to do anything. I was also going to pull the switch and check for continuity as well. I don’t have access to a BUDS scanner but would be willing to spend the money on a A/m one if they are worth it. Thanks again and I’ll post when I find something.
DickB
Active member
I got BUDS after I had the left turn wobble problem on my Ryker and a dealer charged me $170 to say it was "normal", even after I showed the service writer the service bulletin on this problem (he ignored it). I do as much of my own maintenance as possible. I subsequently installed the Steering Update Kit myself, but you need BUDS to calibrate the SAS and yaw sensor. I was going to go to a dealer for that (not the $170 one), but the closest appointment available was 2 weeks out and a 4 hour round trip. I decided to bite the bullet.
I am located 2 hours from the nearest dealer. Servicing at the dealer may require 2 round trips and trailer rental, plus days or weeks of time as the dealers usually have a service backlog. It pays for me in time and $$ to do my own maintenance. For some things, BUDS is required. In addition to the Steering Update Kit, I have used it to reset the transmission (belt) service warning on my Ryker, to replace a bad yaw sensor on my RSS, and to calibrate the speedometer on my RSS. I also used it on my Sea Doo Spark.
For me it is worth the cost, even if it is quite expensive. It depends on the individual situation I suppose. If you have no dealers willing to work on your Spyder, that would be incentive to get BUDS.
DickB
Active member
It's not that simple. The switches are wired to electronics in the switch housing to connect to the CAN bus. You could test switch continuity to the electronics, but since the Mode switch is not the only one that is unresponsive, it suggest the problem is not with the Mode switch itself, but in the CAN bus connection. You need BUDS to test switch function to the CAN bus.
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